JB Earl

Thanks everyone. BTW the 13 lb capacity is only for when it's at a lean, normal capacity is 55 lbs. http://www.manfrotto.us/12-tall-cine-stand-w-leveling-leg

btw, anyone know what the little loophole in the top casting is for? You're not supposed to tether stands, right?

It's a manfrotto 111u, tall steel cine stand. (not the wind up). it's about 12' high, and 5' when folded. It does have a slightly smaller footprint than a combo or high roller. I think 42" I have other big stands, just got a good deal on this and never used one with the high braced legs.

Toby, sorry I don't get it. What's wrong with this kind of stand?

We use GE Cinema Plus and Osram DULUX lamps in various fluorescent fixtures. I don't think they're much cheaper than KinoFlo, but there's no question that they're matched to regular ballasts.

Does anyone know the proper way to sandbag a stand like this? Thanks

quartz lamps also produce UV radiation (not quite radioactive), but not as much as (unshielded) HMI. If you shoot artwork you'll find out. You can do a lot with 3 redheads and some scrims and diffusion. Keep some spare lamps around because they will pop. Keep a lower wattage lamp in case you want to use one direct with the others bounced or diffused

That is very clever. I may steal the idea. you should make it automatically light up when there's mail.....

"Reality is for those who lack Imagination" .thank you.

Sekonic 398a would be perfect for that camera. Use 1/50th- not a big difference unless you want to keep shadow detail or clouds....(it'll be marked on the meter) and no batteries!

IMHO the best way to lower the output of a fixture is to relamp it. For example a Lowel DP will take a 1k, a 750w or a 500w lamp. Otherwise, scrims are very useful and will allow you to vary the illumination across the field, as well as just reducing overall. I wouldn't bother with the dimmers right now. you'll need spare lamps anyway.

that will certainly solve my problem. I'm rough storyboarding something at a drive in. thanks much Info from Tim also put in my mind some ideas with scenes with a small projector outside, like they used to do at summer camps

I hope this is a good place to post this, We're moving into a new studio space, with a shooting area about 28x50. The floors are concrete that have had various treatments in the past so there is a mess of leftover adhesive, spalling, mortar, etc. We've discussed floor tile (like in grocery stores), painting, and bare concrete with some kind of sealer. Does anyone have suggestions on what we should think about? Also anything else we should consider doing while the space is being finished? thanks much

Very true

If you're on a really tight budget you can hang some shower curtains from a background stand- (12' across) and shoot through. This will save you foot-candles over the muslin too.

I never really thought about this in detail, but if you we're shooting an outdoor scene at dusk (after sunset) involving a projected movie in the background, what would you balance for? Small projectors of course are tungsten, but what about big screen? How would you choose to balance between the very cold ambient light and the tungsten projected image (unless big projectors are daylight balanced?) My feeling is to let the ambient be mostly proper, but I'd hate to have a really yellow glowing image in the background.

we use fomecore as gobos a lot, just clamp to a stand. (most still photogs i know call them flags) We have a bunch of paint cans filled with concrete and a pole stuck in them to clamp fomecore and such to. Very small footprint makes it easy to work around the set. The scrims and silks must be rigged properly though.

are you talking flags specifically? or scrims too? Depends on your lighting style. We use 24x36 in front of softboxes, but the 18x24 works fine most of the time with fresnels and open face lights.

picked up a Calumet (made by bowers) light on an open box deal. 8-55w Dulux lamps are putting out over 160 FC at 10'! That's double what my other 6 lamp fixtures are. It looks like the angled reflectors behind the lamps are making the difference.

I did some poking around. Turns out the connectors ARE plastic. I can't imagine them being safe anywhere near 100 lbs. If it sounds too good to be true.....

thanks Phil, I do remember some miniature stands like that from my photoflood days. FWIW they rate these for 100lbs so it sounds good, so I don't imagine the connectors are plastic. That would not be good. I remember when USS was trying to sell speaker stands at VISCOMM years ago. They were big but had plastic hardware.

Anyone see one of these up close? http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...uty_Light.html looks an awful lot like my manfrotto combo stands.( a little shorter) but can't be sure from the photos they're made to hold up small lighting trusses. Any thoughts?

thanks for the info. Guess that explains why you can't buy just the full. I found a detailed plan for building your own nesting set so I'll check those.

Does anyone know if I can buy just a full nesting box (to fit my current boxes inside)? I've only seen complete sets for sale.

I have a bunch of scrims and flags that need repair/recovering. Is it cost effective and if so what's the best place to send them in the east? thanks