JB Earl

I have a "vintage" Oconnor 30 head (similar to the 50 but with variable counterbalance). It's a great head, except for the pan handle which is a royal pain... I'm thinking of cutting the handle and welding an Arri rosette to the end of the part that goes into the head. Then using a matching rosette to fit the handle. Any thoughts on whether I'll have any problems with this?

Good chance it was a Zip light.... so small but non specular

what Satsuki said. and not just for flicker reasons...

I’m pretty sure that re-lamp draws less than 400 watts AC And the transformer is built-in. so it’s 110 V going in. It will work just like a Quasar and you can use any AC dimmer for it. I’ve used a harbor freight router control to dim them

If it will always be completely locked down, then any head that will hold a large format still camera should work fine. We used to use the majestic geared heads for big heavy cameras, but you’ll have to adapt it since they worked on 2 inch diameter post. You can occasionally find them with a 3/8 thread in the bottom If you need a cheap solution for an ok fluid head in that range Try the Manfrotto 510, 516, 526.

Cool Lux made a small zip light like that, I had thought about using for an obie. Been looking for the perfect instrument for a long time. I like the mechanical dimming on the Arri.

so it sounds like there is literally no solution for GFCI use when we just want to use a small HMI in the backyard, plugged into a 20a residential outlet?

thanks for the detailed info Guy. I looked at the manufacturers you cited, the only product I could find that is appropriate to what I'm doing would be the one by Lifeguard, https://www.guardiangfci.com/products/lg20-line. I use the Voltec https://www.voltec-industries.com/copy-of-04-00103 for extremely small projects involving a couple lights. I haven't had a problem with them tripping (yet). Typically I'll plug in a parcan or a couple litemats/panels. I appreciate your thorough explanations, but can you give a non-electrician comparison of these 2 devices, and a dealer for the LG20

Phil, I use some inline 20 amp GFCI's that are commercially available (120v) made by Voltec

a tiny jib? or hang the camera with bungees from speedrail and have 2 grips carry most of the weight?

The first thing I would do is explain to the producers that they've made the job impossible. If you still want to do it, then it will have to be some unusual look, like edge lighting with quasar tubes, or find a location that has a big white wall you can light up for a clean reflection on the car.

did you do this shoot already? If not, how much time do you have and what G&E gear budgeted?

C stands are definitely the wrong tool for any of that, so that only leaves your combos. Of course I can't actually recommend doing it that way, you really need to make that determination on site. Is it interior or exterior? Consider using or building truss for the goalpost.

I wouldn't ever do a goalpost on C stands. I might do the goalpost on the Combos for the 300Ds and hang the 8x8 from the goalpost also. That will get the stands farther out from the car than 8'. also you won't get an even reflection out of quarter grid. Satsuki has some good ideas there too. long ago we made frames up to 5' x12' out of furring strips and skinned them with white nylon or polyester from the fabric store.

You may find a viewfinder app will be easier overall. It is useful for other reasons as well, like storyboarding. The optical viewfinder you can calibrate by eye to your windowd sensor and focal lengths as well