Chanon Wangtrirat

Custom / Preset switch LED Array. 5500K/5000K/3200K/2700K Shot at 5500K WB

Hi! guys. I have recently just made LED fixture to use on my work. Just cost me to make about $160. Output similar to 800W softbox. Made out from RGB ribbon LED and Warm-white ribbon LED. I expected to use WW LEDs at full power but eventually it drags down the color rendition made skintone look off. But the downside : It has multi shadow. solve sometime by using some diffusion sheet. Reason I chose this method. These LEDs are very abundant and very easy to find at cheap. But as you know you can't expect to have excellent color on this either alone. They are just good but I can toss-off for functionality that I gain from this thing. WW LEDs is to make broad spectrum base for skintone. RGB LEDS is to correct portion to matched the sensitivity of the camera. This approach is very similar to Arri L7-C fresnel light which used light engine they called to make tuneable light. While Blue LED have very high energy level. I chose WW LEDs which have high energy in orange green and red part. So I can added by RGB LEDs later to achieve Daylight. MY Goal : - Dimmable - Variable CCT - Green, Magenta shift - Color effect - Rock stady at any shutter speed from top to bottom. - Custom / Preset Switch - WW LED intensity - Red LED intensity - Green LED intensity - Blue LED intensity - On / Off switch Custom / Preset is to switch between selector which will used Pre-tunes trimpots that corresponds to each CCT and the accessible knob that can be customise as your favour. Preset knob is 4 position Selector switch connect to Bunch of Trimpots responsible for each channel. - 5500K Daylight (Tune to closely matched to Kino-Flo color as I have one for evaluate test) - 5000K Daylight (Tune to matched to Philips TL-D 950 Graphica as it have ability to mix very well with natural daylight) - 3200K Tungsten - 2700K Incandescent I just ordered Arduino kits and LCD. Maybe I can bring this into digital control like Kino Flo Celeb line. I just expect to using them without PWM modulation dimming. Here is the test. With Faithful picture style on Canon 60D. 5500K Kino-Flo True-matched Tune. 5500K WB 5000K Tune to Philips Graphica TL-D 950. 5000K WB 3200K Tungsten. 3200K WB 2700K Incandescent. 2700K WB Here are some test. Place like beauty dish. WB : 5500K Canon 550D + 18-55mm ISO 800 28mm F4.0 1/60 e I just sharing my though. Maybe something just wrong approach for using these kind of instrument. But it just worked!!!! quite amazingly. Any suggestions very appreciated. Thank you.

Only SMD LED can be apply this technique. Do at your own risk. I've no responsible for damaging your equipment.

I've got idea to do with this cheapo MR16 LED from Philips which cost around $ 5 with 2.6W power. These highlighter have some magic in them. They are transparent and can correct some green cast with pink-magenta highlighter. For orange one used for reducing Color-temperature which this LED rated at 6500K. I just mix some of these drop of pigment with hot glue and doped at the face of LED (chip itself) and get this interestingly usable color quality. I'll put out there LED board and pack them in diffused fluorescent ceiling fixture later on. The shot was taken by 6D. Color correcting in Lightroom but not alter about color temperature. WB : Daylight 5500K tint 10 Right is TL-D 950 Graphica (noticed it warmer at 5000-5200K) Left is Philips MR16 Essential 2.6W with Highlighter paste on LED chip. Philips Rated this LED at CRI 70 and yes it has poor color rendition. But for non keying light. It's convenient. maybe add RGB along with them and fine tune it will make this to be beast. Maybe this can be apply with casty on cam LED Light ! Who know. But just for fun and reasonably usable. Not for critical work. Cheers !

I think the main inefficient quite big point to spot is PV panel itself. Recently 37.9% by Sharp is the most efficient conventional panel. LED have efficiency of nearly 100lm/w which isn't match to power that feed in. Shine on PV again will be more likely to be very very little power from it. Sure it's not efficient. Direct power from PV that face to the sun is better deal.

That's interesting idea. I have to try it next project. Thank you.

I afraid that Dedolight used 12V Halogen bulb which they promoted as more rugged and cleaner light source (more point light source) than normal 110v,220v Halogen in Arri, Mole. So they can't be plug directly to the outlet. The dimmer came with itself is actually 12v switching power supply with dimmer.

I think LightPro seems to overdrive tube a bit. The ventilation in the fixture also play the role in G/M shift especially for Kino tubes which used Full-spectrum Phosphor that can't withstand heat like Tri-band. I've play with this kind of tubes a bit. - Osram Studioline 55/5600 : Magenta cast, not deep in red great for green screen. Tri-band tube Magenta added. - Osram Dulux L 55/954 : Green cast, poor skin tone. Tri-band tube. - GE Cinema Biax 55w/5500K : Better than Dulux L in skin tone. More match to natural daylight than Studioline. It's tri-band tube. - Philips Graphica T8 36W/950 : The best of all tube I have own. Full-spectrum CRI 97!! Match perfectly with natural daylight. Some how 5300K which warmer than Kino KF55. GE have CinePlus tube which is full-spectrum tube similar to Kino KF55 more expensive than Cinema Biax. Look carefully if you want to buy GE one. Cinema and CinePlus are not the same kind of tube.

I mean Daylight lamp with Tungsten White Balanced which simulate the night scene.

This is very rough test how skin tone appear with these lights. All test on Canon 60D - Daylight Balanced test on 5000K. (Purer white on Canon similar to 5500K on Alexa) - Tungsten Blanced test on 3200K normal Tungsten. Daylight Test Osram Dulux L 55W 954 (CRI 90 55W 5400K) Skintone test on 5000K Daylight. Philips TL-D Graphica 36W/950 (CRI 97 36Wx2 5300K) Skintone test. Tungsten Test Osram Dulux L 55W 954 (CRI 90 55W 5400K) Skintone test on 3200K Tungsten. Philips TL-D Graphica 36W/950 (CRI 97 36Wx2 5300K) Skintone test on 3200K Tungsten. These 2 are quite similar. On Dulux L 55w/950 is likely to be sightly green cast on eyes but on camera is quite magnified result. Thank you for all your opinions.

T12 F20 means "T12 Bulb rated at 20W" Genuine kino bulb which is also T12 but the 2' of them rated at 40w because they over wattage them to achieve higher brighness per bulb, And they added Magenta to compensate for green spike. If you use 2' Kino bulb which fitted in to T12F20 but run at half a power of which they were design for. Supposed you'll get Magenta cast.

Wow! That's what I looking for. Thanks! Also, Graphica is much greater continuous spectrum than normal TL-D 9XX. but as many used it's likely to be same.

This is on set with windows light which cast some green tint. Acceptable. 5200K WB 6D

Yes, It's really fragile especially with 4ft or more. I almost be a gaffer in the team, Look after this fragile stuff. If you buy bulk of it. the price will go down as in Thailand here go as low as $120 per 10 tubes. I've also look at some LED tubes but none of them offer quality light as I expected, Useless green cast and poor skin tone.

Philips TL-D Graphica 950 is 4ft 36W T8 tube that design to used in household fixtures. It's printing colour inspection lamp which gave very realistic colour on D50 standard. about $20 per tube http://www.ecat.lighting.philips.com/l/lamps/fluorescent-lamps/tl-d/master-tl-d-90-graphica/21383/cat/ http://www.lightbulbs-direct.com/philips-graphica-pro-tld-90-36w-950-4ft//p2771 Osram StudioLine 55/5600 use same base as Diva-lite tubes ,2G11 base Philips also make 2ft 18W and 5ft 58W version.

Yes, It's real projector in cinema. Because normal conditions in theatres are Low contamination of dust so the stream of light is hard to see. This is achieve by using high-wattage projector which normally used in Cinema and use some hazer to make it more visible.

I made this one for filming for many projects in University. Before I used some typical Flo-tube which give green spike on Daylight WB (5200K on Canon DSLR). Later on I used Osram StudioLine 55/5600. Pretty great light but some how skin tone looks a bit off and cast Magenta (actually they maybe intended to used in studio just like there name for Chroma key lighting) The most fascinated tube for me is TL-D Graphica 950 from Philips which rated at CRI 97 with CCT 5300K. The picture is shot on Canon 60D DIT 4ft 2bank TL-D Graphica 950 250W 5500K HMI also DIY ISO 250 PS : N F4.5 1/50 WB : 5200K Matched perfectly with Daylight and give really good skin tone. I loved this more than real Kino bulb which sometime cast Magenta as they designed for higher power rated. Thank you.

It's very similar to Kinoflo Parabeam which throw light very long distances.