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David Peterson

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Everything posted by David Peterson

  1. I would recommend getting a few LED lights. Ones like the YN-160 are ridiculously cheap. Surely they're nowhere even close to the quality of lights used on Hollywood features, but student personal projects on a small scale, they're a fantastic tool to use to help drill in the lighting basics by regularily pracitising with your own lights. There are other LED lights to consider too, I'd recommend checking out Nitsan's channel further, he does great reviews on lots of low budget equipment. I do recommend buying things in very small bites. Don't buy ALL the lighting gear that you think you want, all at once. Buy just a couple of items, then use it on your next short film production, then get a couple more. And so on, and so on. You don't really know what you need or even what you want at the start, but as you go along you get a clearer and clearer idea. This applies to most things too, not just lighting. Any kind of equipment, try and breaking it down in to smaller parcels if you can. And go at it bit by bit. How about the Nikon 35mm f/1.8G? Is very good value, and is a nicer focal length on a DX than a 50mm, especially for casual shooting. As it is a normal width (vs a 50mm which is a short tele on a DX). Certainly getting one of the Rokinon primes (though I regard the Sigma and Tokina which I mentioned above as a *much* higher quality lens at their focal lengths than the Rokinon equivalents, but the Rokinon 85mm f/1.4 is worth it) or other Nikon F lenses would be a good starting point to spend something on. They won't drop in value like a camera does. And you can keep on using them in the years to come, on personal projects, micro budget films, or if you go freelancing (such as for corporate/wedding/music videos). Don't buy those package deals!! They're usually poop. Upping the price by adding a bunch of junk into it, that you could just as easily by separately and cheaply yourself. Or even not buy at all. When it comes to a low budget tripod for a student I recommend the Fancier FC-270a and Beike BK-777, which are the two I own myself. Though personally I find myself using my monopod with a fluid head on it more often! They're just so handy, lightweight, and quick to use (plus sometimes a tripod can be a little too "sterile", while a monopod is steady while having just enough movement to it for a bit more organic look as it isn't as locked off). Agreed, go get one ASAP if you're thinking about it! Crazy good deal. I don't even care if Blackmagic Design announces another amazing camera in a few more months, this is too great a deal to let pass by. Or at least that is my attitude, I purchased on last night! If I'd had the cash I would have got THREE of them for doing wedding films with this season (especially now that the latest firmware lets you do ProRes LT, so you can record for hours and hours onto a single SD card). But I have to emphasize, if you are thinking about getting a BMPCC, do it ASAP. Because they're very very quickly running out. I'd recommend going with Adorama like I did over B&H, as then you should hopefully have a weighting time of weeks rather than months. Otherwise, just keep on using your current D5100, with skill you can sitll make nice stuff with it. I saw recently a fellow NZer share this on FB: http://sylvaincoppens.be/nikon/ Though stepping up to the Nikon D5200 is a big leap, Nikon really stepped up their game starting with the D5200 (it is waaaaay ahead of the Canon competition). And the Nikon D5200 is the one I'm using. http://www.eoshd.com/content/9653/nikon-d5200-review http://www.eoshd.com/content/tag/nikon-d5200
  2. I'd recommend a mirrorless camera over getting a 7D, such as that Sony NEX-7. Not only do they do better video quality than a 7D (for little tiny personal projects or for lending out to a buddy, or whatever) but they're easier to adapt to all kinds of mounts. Personally I'd recommend the Sony A6000, as not only is it very affordable, it is also one of the best DSLR/MILC for filmmakers who do that kind of thing (thus making it a tad more dual purpose than just as a directors viewfinder). http://www.eoshd.com/content/12428/surprise-sony-alpha-a6000-video-mode-huge-improvement
  3. If you give it a google, you'll be able to find plenty. When it was first released, people would often share it for others who hadn't yet got one.
  4. Good grief, this quote makes it absolutely blindingly clear you should not buy any kind of Alexa! Or even any say a Sony F5 etc... for much much less than an Alex is. This thread ought to have consisted of nothing but that being repeated over and over: *don't waste your money*! Only if you're a multi millionaire playboy might it then *maybe* make sense to buy one in your situation (because meh.... you spent more on your latest Ferrari anyway! Or some such nonsense). Keep on practising with your T3i instead and get more expensive. And if you *must* spend more money, spend it in other areas such as a set of Rokinon primes. Or lighting. Or... too many other way to list! Is easy to spend money... so don't waste it on an Alexa! And if you *must* spend money on a camera body, get a Panasonic GH4 (or even a G6), or Sony A7s, or one of the Blackmagic Design cameras. Any of these would be a *hugely* better idea for you at this stage to get than an Alex. Stick the rest of the money way in an investment (such as an Index Fund) so it is available for when you will really need it in the future.
  5. Will Montgomery, they both use exactly the same sensor size: "12.48mm x 7.02mm". I wouldn't be too surprised if they're sourced from the same place, identical even. Reusing a sensor helps keep costs down, which is what Blackmagic is all about? http://nofilmschool.com/2014/04/blackmagic-broadcast-industry-with-4k-studio-camera-for-3k-nab/
  6. Hey, we're both kiwis! Where are you? I'm in central Auckland. And ohhh.... so this was years and years ago? Probably very different now. I've ordered stuff via B&H with my NZ Visa beforehand (got my Tascam DR-60D and Rode NTG 2 via B&H). Anyway, I pulled the trigger and ordered the BMPCC from Adorama early this morning! Fingers crossed it all works out.
  7. Yikes... can you elaborate more on this, how did they "screw you over"?
  8. An interesting theory (I won't call it any more than a "theory" though) which I read on Facebook about why the BMPCC's price got slashed in half: <<The new studio cam (only camera head) has the same sensor like the pocket, but Blackmagic don't sell it as expected. So they had a lot of unobstructed sensors at home and decided to build up some more pockets for half the price! Nice, but not clever to all early adaptors... Greetz, Tom, 4W Team>>
  9. Heh, getting back on topic because this is the URSA thread.... I was just thinking about its price and what I'd do if I had that much to spend on new equipment. I could get a BMPCC, Panasonic GH4, Sony A7s, *and* a Atomos Ninja Blade for 4K recording for the same price as an URSA, and *still* have some cash left over! I know I'd pick that collection any day over an URSA! Clearly the URSA isn't such a bargain for me, like it is for others.
  10. After looking around the likely places, it seems like B&H and Adorama are the only remaining options which make sense. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/964117-REG/blackmagic_design_blackmagic_pocket_cinema_camera.html http://www.adorama.com/BMCCP.html I guess buying it from B&H makes the most sense as they throw in a free hotshoe mount, which would be handy. Any other thoughts or suggestions where to buy a BMPCC instead that I might have overlooked? Edit: oops... just realised Adorama also offers the same "Wooden Camera 1/4-20 Hot Shoe", which I guess make both Adorama and B&H an equal choice for me once again! (which one is likely to ship it in the smallest sized packaging box? As this does matter to me! As no matter what, I'll need to use a reshipper to then get it to NZ) And yes, I know they are back ordered currently at both Adorama and B&H. Edit2: Hmmm.... is it true that if I want to record CinemaDNG RAW then I have no choice but to buy the "SanDisk - 64 GB SDXC Memory Card Extreme Pro Class 10 UHS-I" with it? (& whoa.. I'll only get 15 minutes of recording! Guess I'll need to stock up on a LOT of these $100 cards! lol, but I reckon just one will do for now) Because it appears nothing slower works, and I can't even save money on buying a smaller sized 32 GB one? Apparently there is some very minor difference between the "SanDisk - 64 GB SDXC Memory Card Extreme Pro Class 10 UHS-I" and the "SanDisk - 32 GB SDXC Memory Card Extreme Pro Class 10 UHS-I" such that the 32 GB version doesn't work for CinemaDNG RAW without dropping occasional frames. Correct?
  11. You could quite possibly even sell it on eBay for as much as you brought it, or even more! Once the price goes back up at the end of next month. I just checked my bank account and yay, payment for the latest job came through. So I'm off to buy a BMPCC for myself! Where is the best place that is recommended to buy it from?
  12. Dooo it! Buy one! :-D I'll be getting mine this week.
  13. Well, it is a bit of a late reply I made but I think it was helpful. As it would seem the person is very very very confused if they're asking "SD D-SLR's versus HDD-SLR's"?? Do they think there are DSLRs which just do standard definition?? And how on earth do they think for a moment that a D60 is a HDSLR?? :-/ So hopefully my reply helped clear it up a bit? As "HDSLR" is kinda a play on words of the combination "HD" (High Definition video) + "DSLR" (digital single-lens reflex camera) = "HDSLR" (no, not "HDDSLR". The overlapping "D" gets dropped. Thus in a way it is a play on words). As for your other paragraphy, while DSLR does get used in a much broader term that incompasses MILC (mirrorless interchangeable-lens camera) as well, I reckon to most people it is clear enough that when discussing in filmmaking groups that "DSLR" (or HDSLR) is just shorthand or lazy form of writing "DSLR/MILC". And that fact it can cover such a broad range of price and quality from a Canon T2i all the way up to a Panasonic GH4 and every where in between, doesn't mean it is meaningless. As it is still useful to distinguish between those DSLR/MILCs which can do video and those which can *not*!! Though this is becoming less useful with time, as almost all new DSLRs/MILCs which hit the market today do video (aside from a few very rare exceptions, such as the retro Df).
  14. RJ Lens Turbo and a Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 will get you plenty wide: http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/9086/rj-lens-turbo-m43-adapters/p1 Is what I use on my Micro Four Thirds cameras.
  15. The Pocket is even more of a no-brainer with them slashing the price in half, and recording length times are no issue now either with their latest firmware update release which offers a lighter version of ProRes.
  16. HDSLR means a DSLR that does video. D60 doesn't do video at all, it is too old. Thus no, it is not a "HDSLR".
  17. 481fps?? Well damn, that is fast! Wonder if a future firmware update of the GH4 might allow it to go faster than 96fps....
  18. The T4i is a bit of a rubbish camera, all of Canon's APS-C DSLRs are, because Canon has utterly stalled on pushing forward its sensor tech in this area. But that doesn't matter.... you can still do amazing things with it! Because the camera matter less than you think. In rough order of priority it is: content, light, lenses, camera. (camera is last!) Check out what nice stuff this guy has shot with a T2i: http://www.eoshd.com/content/12763/kendy-ty-t2i-one-guy-amazing-things-5-year-old-dslr So I say just get together with like minded folks and get out there and start shooting! :-D There are heaps of free guides and youtube videos out there to watch. If you do spend any money, do it perhaps on some helpful books, like this one: http://www.amazon.com/The-Five-Cs-Cinematography-Techniques/dp/187950541X Edit: oh, and what Jeremy Parsons said x10. :) Do that too!
  19. You may also find http://shotonwhat.com/ relevantly interesting.
  20. ^This. Nikon F mount is certainly *the* way to go in my opinion! Get the RJ Lens Turbo: http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/9086/rj-lens-turbo-m43-adapters/p1 Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 Nikon 50mm f/1.8D This will very comfortably come under budget. If you want to spend a bit more then get the Rokinon 85mm f/1.8 and/or replace the Tamron with instead the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8
  21. Get the RJ Lens Turbo instead, will save you a bundle. You can purchase it here and read the reviews: http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/9086/rj-lens-turbo-m43-adapters/p1 Then for a cheaper alternative to the Sigma, get the Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 which is a bit slower but a longer ranger and much cheaper. If you want wide, get the Tokina 11-16mmm f/2.8 instead.
  22. I agree with Phil Rodes and Freya Black, start out with something *cheap* and start learning with it! And even drumming up some of your own work with it. However what "cheap" means to you depends a lot on your own personal circumstances. But I'm going to guess you fit broadly speaking into one of these three categories: a) cheap as chips: Panasonic GH1 b) not quite so cheap, but still very affordadable: Panasonic G6, Nikon D5200, Sony A6000 c) awesomeness: Panasonic GH4, Sony A7s The Panasonic GH1 is a fantastic starting out camera, *NOTHING* in its price range can match it (heck, I've used a Canon 5DmkII as well, and I prefer the GH1!). My first paid work (weddings) I used my GH1 on it. If you have a bit more budget, I strongly recommend the Panasonic G6 (it is basically the updated GH2, and I'd prefer it over the GH2 or GH3. Yet it costs less!). The Nikon D5200/D5200/D7100 and Sony A6000 are also strong choices at about the same price. I use the Nikon D5200 quite a bit myself. The GH4 and A7s are two quite different cameras, but similar in that they're basically top of the mountain when it comes to the "best" DSLR/MILC out there for filming with. And I'll be upgrading to them before the end of this year. (might just wait for the first price drop to happen, of say a couple of hundred bucks before jumping on one. No rush... I've got plenty of other cameras to use until then!) There are other cameras out there, such as the Sony FS100 and the BMPCC which each got huge price drops recently, but they don't quite match the bang for buck *and* ease of use which the others have. Perhaps if you were not just starting out, you might consider them though.
  23. No idea what you're talking about there..... there is no "more sophisticated Canon" DSLR camera than what the GH2 is! I wouldn't be worried at all with your choice :-) With the GH2 you've got *the best* 1080 DLSR/MILC on the planet (more or less though, we could argue about how a Panasonic G6 or GH3 is a few percent better, but they're not hugely better). Nothing can significantly surparse it, except for the new generation of 4K cameras of the GH4 and Sony A7s. And that is a bit outside our discussion here. So be happy with it! The problem isn't with your camera, but with your use of it. In getting the exposure right, and colour grading it afterwards.
  24. Use your cellphone and just start making films! And yes, study and your local state university. You'll save a ton of money. It is whatever you make of it, and I'm sure there will be others at the local state university into filmmaking too.
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