Michael Carter

Nice. Thanks. That material looks like it may be a little absorbent. I would think a non absorbent material would create water marks on the back of film. I also see clear film on the ends. I have learned to load in the dark to get a black end and pictures all the way to the end.

I would like to see some pictures of that. My dryer makes indents if the film isn't moved some as it shrinks. Spinning does that but I still lift a portion from end to end, redistributing it.

Hi, I would like to see that. Please post a link to the web site. YouTube offers a free channel. Mine has a unboxing video of a expensive 100 ft spiral Russian developing tank.

I made a video about how to make clip tests, rather long pieces, not clips. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gQc5u8L3HJE

It is hard to see the tiny letters, let alone to focus a Bolex H8-REX. Emulsion I never touch when or after developing because it is so tacky when wet. However, I do gently run the film over a cloth to avoid drops on the back that can occur from drum ribs. After film is dry and while it is still loosely on the Morse film drying drum, see my video on https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5PuBina81Tk I used Filmrenew on both sides hopefully to get rid of some dust and hairs. Filmrenew supposidly adds lubercation. That may help projection.

I'm no trained lab tech. Just an old art teacher armature filmmaker. But, I have a darkroom, a UPB1A spiral tank. No problem reversing Foma R8mm except for the dirt on the film. Cleaning the film is something I have to overcome. I will be making prints and clean film is necessary.

I can do it with the reversal kit from Freestyle Photo

I'm in Pittsburgh PA. How can I connect with other filmmakers? Is there a special board where they communicate with each other? Thanks Michael Carter

Tempting

I got the 2K scan from Gamma Ray Digital and managed one clip synced to an audio recorded on a video camera. I retimed the audio. Regular 8mm Fomapan R100 was self processed and sent unslitted. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Rd1TQUPv3KU

The sprocket holes don't move. Neither does the picture, yet I'm pretty sure no stabilization was applied. That is really something to crow about. Color negative goes into a digital work flow. However, reversal may be projected as film. I have a movie film contact printer, and I know a pro who has two. I want to try to make prints to work on and to project. There was a contact printing machine that sold receiently for a high amount, so someone else may be wanting to print 8mm films, too. My experiments will begin soon.

This is really great!

I understand film is made in huge wide rolls and then slit and perffed. And that if a destributer orders enough of it, they will make it.

He should get my tiny film tomorrow!

Where did you get it done?

Steel 110 mm spools hold 16mm film. Jobo plastic 110mm spools hold longer pieces. Lomo spiral developer tanks hold 25 feet, 50 feet, and 100 foot loads of 16mm film, be it regular 8, double s8, or 16mm. Figuring out how to process clips can be done with short pieces and then full rolls can be done at your own place. Michael

Here are all of them in as best order as I could do. Left to right, 1 1/2 min, then 23456789 10 11 12

Ansco Moviechrome 8 color artificial light type A film is what I have a carton of to shoot and develop in Regular 8mm cameras. I made clip tests and taped them to glass then scanned it. It makes a printable page. The small pieces of film were developed the same way in D-76 1:1 at different times. Borax-o was used to soften the backing and wipe it off after processing. Clearly, more need to be done. I want to process to negative since I do not know how to reverse it, yet. Since I have a Uhler Cine printer I will eventually print the negatives. On something. The same film at first. Suggestions? Yes, I have spiral and rewind tanks and drying racks. Thank you.