Dennis Toeppen

This thread is stress-inducing. Nothing worse than spots from an unknown source.

🙂 They sure produce nice images despite all the problems.

Maybe I'll just get some Master Primes instead of buying a 765... 🙂

Arri 765s jam? If so, it's coming off my xmas wish list.

Arri 765 + Vision 3 = Nirvana

I found the story and production of OUATIH rather fascinating, so much so that I went to LA to see it at QT's theater (nice clean print in a nice clean theater). I also raced around to check out some locations. I made a little video. I didn't put much effort into camerawork. I was in a major hurry.

I miss it. It's been gone a very long time.

OH, I managed to purchase a maintenance manual and exploded parts diagram for $50 plus $5 shipping. If anyone needs access, you're welcome to a PDF copy.

Dunkin donut or butt problem inflatable donut?

Howdy, I lost my beloved Kodak K-100 this summer when the triple-rig (three huge rafts tied together) I was on capsized on the Colorado River at rapids known as "Big Drops." A triple-rig has never capsized in Cataract Canyon, not in over 50 years. I was lucky to experience that river bit of river history firsthand, I guess. Maybe someone will find the camera years or decades from now. It was double-bagged in 9 mil (very thick) ziploc bags and had my name on it. Anyhow, I've moved on. My new K-100 arrived today. It has a beautiful pressure plate with no discernable wear. Pressure plate wear is the number one cause of bad registration in high-mileage K-100s. I was just wondering if anyone out there has a repair/maintenance manual for the K-100. I've had no difficulty finding the owner's manual, but that doesn't help. I want to CLA the camera myself, and I don't want to just wing it. Here are two rolls that were shot before the accident. After the DANGER sign, the footage came from Arri 416 and Aaton A-Minima. Footage before and including the DANGER sign are from K-100. It's not much of a film because I was just getting additional shots to finish off a 2015 film. https://vimeo.com/355690136 Thanks in advance for assistance tracking down a manual. Dennis Toeppen

Assuming you use Mac/OSX, you should download Vidi to create .mov on your HD. Vidi doesn't stop recording when timecode breaks, like other programs do. But it sounds like you're dealing with analog out from your DV? I spent a bunch of money and time trying to figure out best way to capture analog (from a VHS source) awhile ago. I settled on Canopus as the most sensible solution. Here are a couple videos I made comparing hardware for capturing VHS. The differences are fairly subtle to a layperson, maybe not so subtle to you. The Canopus beat the top of the (consumer) line JVC VHS deck with IEEE output. https://vimeo.com/347814736 https://vimeo.com/347814814 Oh, you're the guy that posted the A-Minima reel awhile ago with home scenes in it. That was awesome. I especially liked the shots of stuff on your dining table...coffee, was it? The time lapse in the car was great, also. That film moved me from wanting an A-Minima to actually buying one.

Thanks

Closure: I got the A-Minima in, no problem. I carried it through security day before and earlier day of and nobody batted an eyelash. So I just took the A-Minima to the event with me. It sat in a porta-brace bag behind my chair and it didn't bother a single person. I think I got some halfway decent footage. The lighting was pretty awful, ie I shot 500T and pushed it 1/2 stop. We'll see how it turns out.

Thank you. I had CinePost (www.posthouse.com) scan all his 8mm stuff in 2012. They seem understand the home movie market well and their colorist makes good decisions and compromises. They consistently deliver nice looking files. Unfortunately, all the scans I have are SD. I guess I'll have to do another round. But I don't really feel like there is more than about 2k in an 8mm frame, if that. I just went to Apollo 11 "flashback" event at Kennedy Space Center. It was interesting and very, very, very hot and humid.

Ok, new information & question. I located some 200T in 50' magazines in my freezer. Now, I'm wondering if I can get away with pushing that 1 stop, or maybe just 1/2 stop. The goal would be to have 16mm 200T come close to look of 8mm 50D after scanning, or at least not look awful. The only alternative for the interiors, I think, is to shoot Regular 8 250D in my little Bolex D8L.