David Sekanina

Could be that you have a very high shutter speed instead if a traditional 1/48s, and with this high shutter speed you get no motion blur, so even slow moving objects can look stuttery.

Here's a waveform of an ungraded negative scan, 10 bit DPX with some dark, almost black areas. The bottom isn't clipped (sitting on a line) like in your DPX Waveform. Only on the far left and right of the Waveform, you have a line at the bottom, which represent the mask (absolute black) in the scan:

I guess the film was shot on reversal stock, right? That might explain the crushing of the shadows or the HDS+ scanner not having enough dynamic range to see details in the shadows of a reversal film

and here a few ungraded DPX files: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1MtSAEq950YKTDneZewXDBPFMyZ3t58eb?usp=sharing

Here's a short clip: It seems to come from the perf. I received another scan from a different lab and film roll yesterday, and the light spill isn't in the new scan.

Can I ask why you want to work with ProRes? My 2.2K 10 bit DPX scans run smoothly in PremierePro and Resolve off an internal or external SSD on a 2 year old laptop, CPU running at 15-20% when grading.

Thank you Charles, that could be it. Love the camera!

It was shot on an XTR Prod. Will upload a short clip later. Haven't asked the scanning guys yet, but it looks like the light comes from the perfs. I've seen discoloration just under the perf on high speed cameras, running at 400 fps, where the pulldown claw stresses the perf enough, so the emulsion reacts. But this can't be that. The camera ran at 24fps buttery smooth and silent.

Hi I got my first 16mm scan back from a Scanstation at 2K. I noticed a slight yellowish tint in the upper left corner and wondered if this was due to an uneven light during the scan, or a light leak in the camera? It's very faint and only visible on light backgrounds. Has anyone seen something similar before? Sprocket hole stress that caused discoloration?

sold

Yes, newer 35mm lenses with large barrels (compared to the small barrelled ones of the 70's) have sometimes the problem of hitting the viewfinder on the SRs.

I found an old LTR one where unfortunately one corner shows some color fringing. (I think the previous owner cleaned it with an aggressive solvent that crept between the fused fiber screen and lens bond)

If I understand you correctly, you already have a music video shot digitally, and in order to get the real film grain, you want to record it onto film and then scan the film to have a digital copy with real film grain. The recording to film will be quite expensive. You can get scanned film grain from true film stock and add it to your digital video. Some digitally shot film are recorded to film to add the film grain and texture, in order to be projected on a film projector for the audience. Early digitally shot films were also recorded to film, as film projection was the standard before digital projectors were added to cinemas.

the helical gear 01 150 25 which connects with the helical gear coming up at an angle in the lower left, is virtually noiseless at these speeds. It's the magnet ring 01 150 15 that can move left and right when no mag is attached and therefore move too much to the right and rub against the side wall. why it does make a noise when the mag IS attached is curious. I'd get the camera CLAd.

the mag drive disk has quite some torque, so you should be fine. have a technician do a CLA on the body after the shoot, maybe a tiny piece of debris is stuck behind the disk and the side wall that's causing a the noise.

at 24 fps you should be fine. happy shooting tomorrow!

if you tilt the camera to the other side without a mag, the rubbing should stop. and with the mag installed it should not rub tilted either way, or held upside down. running the camera at low fps without a mag for brief moments is no problem, but not at high fps - i think the XTR even refuses to run without a mag installed at 75fps, in order to protect the pulldown claw.

hi stephen i tried to replicate what you described on my XTR prod, and yes, without a mag installed, when tilted to the side, the disk with the magnets shifts outwards (towards the throat or the mag), Because there's no mag present it can shift more and starts to rub against the sidewall of the disk cutout. With the mag installed, the magnetic drive is silent.

I bought the Lanparte voltage regulator 12V and changed the barrel connector to an XLR. Unfortunately the Lanparte is limited to 1AMP max. Over that it shuts down. The XTR Prod should draw around 0.5 to 0.6 AMPs when running but i couldn't even start the camera, as the peak current when the motor is spinning up is over 1 AMP. Will try out your Indipro one, thanks for the link. Like Tyler, I also ran my XTR Prod directly from a Vlock battery over D tap. But for other accessories, I'd like to limit the voltage to 12V.

oops, just saw you tried repositioning the beam splitter - sorry, running the flu.

maybe the beam splitter isn't fully over the ground glass. usually you engage the beam splitter with the tool in the handle by turning the screw until it hits the stop, and then reverse one turn, so it's not touching the end stop anymore. maybe it reversed a bit more than one turn. I'd try that before repositioning the CCD sensor board.

there's an SR3 Advanced kit in the UK on BBlist

Thank you Tyler, didn't think the NiMH cells were so much heavier. No video tap on my PROD, but the prism and relay lens are in there as I'm currently machining parts for a very lightweight HD tap (less than 50g) Maybe the older style mags were lighter than the PROD ones, although I'd think it would be the other way around.

Due to the weight limit of the Steadicam Aero 30 I thought the often reported weight of the Aaton XTR Prod of 6Kg with 400 ft of film and 12V on board battery, no lens was a bit off, so I finally measured it on a precision scale: with 400ft of film plus battery, no lens it's closer to 6,8Kg without the battery (720g) it's closer to the reported 6Kg Thought it might be helpful to other Aero30 owners.