Stephen Perera

this is the 16mm ground glass hence why no markings????....... ......no idea how to do the conversion though...the manual refers to tools and parts with no pictures on the guide and I can't find anything at all on youtube guiding me on how to do it ....its an 'easy when you know how' moment....will prob send it to my now friend in the UK who services Aatons...he said "You need to look through port on r/h side sloted screw on ground glass holder loosen and push gg right until stop the tighten screw Undo 4 screws on view finder where it joins body then transfer s16 packing piece under 2 screws to other side. Undo lens holder move to othe 3 screws the centre using s16 Aaton tool and tighten. Then collimate camera." I can't collimate any camera....needless to say I had to look that one up hahaha

well its PRECISELY what I have just bought myself an Aaron XTR 16mm camera to establish proper discipline and retrain myself as I did when I shot Hasselblad + film....I purposely got a model with no video tap or electronics that will force me to take light meter and measure with a tape and all the rest of it!

no information at all that i can see......tell me about the frame though....the thick frame and the inner broken line frame.....this looks like regular 16mm Not super16mm.....

hahaah cool i get it now hahaha

can't see any marking on the ground glass

hahaha fantastic man I did it!!! never in a billion years would it occur to me to take the core mount off....obv. cos i haven't seen a 100ft roll out of its bag yet!..... so basically I will keep the core mount off until I actually buy some 400ft rolls I guess....the piece was screwed on lightly i could even put my nail on the groove and start unscrewing it by hand so i guess the previous owner must have used some 100ft rolls too.... so how come you load in the dark though? is there still a need or just to practice anyway???? the whole Aaton design seems really well thought out and robust to me.... thanks Tyler you are a fantastic help to me......I hope one day I can actually be of some help to you.....I will take pics of the ground glass tomorrow as i left the camera at work....I just have the second magazine at home with me.....

....the obvious thing to do would be take off the black discs of the roll of film making it light proof whilst maintaining the core in the middle....assuming it has the core it needs to work properly...cant think why they would use a different one haha....

what you mean have a look at the ground glass....look inside the viewfinder or down behind the lens??? haha ignorance is blis.... ....one IMPORTANT question I have though Tyler..... in my ignorance a while ago (when i was gonna settle on buying an old MOS camera) i bought 100ft daylight load stock from Kodak in Spain not thinking i was going to end up buying an Aaton with 400ft magazines as i have.... so my question is...can the daylight load stock be used on Aaton 400ft magazines.....the manual says yes and I quote.... "30m (100ft) daylight spools can be used on feed side only....to remove the core holder (is that the two light blocking discs so to speak??) loosen screw 02.613.02 using knurled tool 02.620.00 found near the left/right passage. Then used this knurled tool to hold spool on spindle" em sounds like a lot to be able to do in the dark no? have no idea what they mean....

really enjoyed the trailor and will watch it somehow for sure...has a Terrence Mallick vibe to it for sure in the editing of the trailer with the music....loved it....great to see real work on this forum not all the garbage on youtube etc

i do not understand the lingo ....what does 'aim for printing lights of around 20 for Double-X and......Vision3....aim for printing lights of around 27-32 (green channel) mean

...you say to 'reduce the grain'.....in my experience with Kodak photographic films like T-Max and Portrait I always rate the film at half box speed....thus overexposing one stop and that gives me the detail in the shadows whilst the highlights stay controlled....surely its the same for moving images??? the last thing u want is to push film no? i.e. rate 200asa at 500asa or whatever

Hi all....soon will embark on shooting super16mm....so, my learned friends, could you give me your views on the following 'modern' Kodak Vision 3 stocks.... 50D, 250D, 500T and Eastman Double-X 250D B/W negative: 1. do you rate at box speeds or 1 stop over e.g. rate the 500T and 250asa (always do this with photography Kodak stock on my Hasselblad) 2. characteristics of the stocks - 'you can overexpose freely 3 stops on this one' and such comments.... anything and everything will be helpful...yes of course I have to test the film etc but I want starting pointers if possible? thanks in advance

Aaton service guy in UK Alan (great guy) told me this camera - the XC model - was made as a camera to go bring out if your electronics go and you're in the middle of the jungle - it does have the magnetic magazines though but doesn't have the electronic film counter etc

Thanks Tyler!!! No. 3 - is a remote ON button.....the seller just told me haha..... No. 4 - dunno what it is still..... No. 5 - yes has small fine threads at the end spot on!

I think only us like-minded people around here will appreciate how excellent the lighting was and the choices made - like using film, lenses etc to make it look like it did....I think its an honour for us to has ASC's in this forum to be honest

Item 2 on the lower photo is the battery charger I guess....item 1 (Aaton 30) doesn't come complete but was included in the sale......no idea what parts 3 - 7 are....no. 4 looks like a cable release of some sort......and item 5 I thought was connected to the hole labelled A on the first image......though from pictures on the internet I see some models have like a flick switch there.....but there isn't one on this camera

Hi all..... just received my Aaton XTR XC (no electronics) and I must say I love its form factor and the feel of it....the viewfinder is bright enough for me and have my Nikon adapter ready to go.....Im waiting for two batteries to be re-celled before i can use it....saying that I don't even know where the 'roll film' start button is hahahaha and I can't find any documentation for this either! also, have no idea what the parts that came with it are....I hope you could identify the labels Ive added and tell me a bit about what they do.....MUCH APPRECIATED!!!!! (as you can se I have created a make-shift follow focus + rail system from the grip bar...dont have the grip nor bars)

For what its worth coming from me I thought you shot 'The Love Witch' spot on....you nailed the lighting style and colour palette of the genre the film was set in (thanks to Kodak stock)....the colour temp of the light, the flattering yet hard edged facial lighting....looked like straight of a 1960s TV movie......chapeau.......oh and the lead actress was perfectly cast and she certainly had a spell over me!!!!

hi there what Leica R's do you have and prices please thanks

guess nobody has any haha

this is my most awaited film for a long time

Hi all a good friend of mine has just sold me a Leica R6.2 with three lenses....Elmerit 28mm f2.8 + Summicron 50mm f2 + Elmerit 80m f2.8 just wondering what characteristics and 'flavour' to expect from these lenses as i can't test them out yet (need adapters)...they are beautiful in the hands and super smooth focus throw....bought the set for £400 (British pounds in mint condition) - also included the coolest looking Leica TO-R adapter that allows you to use each of them as telescopes!!! and a super cool small remote control trigger cable - will use on Aaton XTR via Nikon adapter (lens mount is easily changed) and on Sony 6500

prices on super 16 lenses??? email? graphics@gibraltar.gi thanks

thanks for responding....prob around the 24mm to 35mm equivalent field of view of a 35mm film camera

Hi all, I finally bought an Aaton XTR super 16mm film camera as some of you know.......so now i come to a lens dilemma. The camera brings the Aaton to Nikon F mount adapter so that's the way I'm going....so where i fall short is on achieving a wide angle field of view......I just can't with any of my lenses There are loads of affordable 'full frame' lenses out there you can stick a gear on at worst but even an 18mm (full frame with the aperture ring like a Zeiss ZF.2) will give me the field of view roughly like a 54mm lens on the Aaton (assuming a 2.97 'crop factor' as a guideline)... ......I can't blow $4000 plus on a cine lens which even then still has a 'crop' factor as are super 35mm....so should I just buy a one off super 16mm specific lens with either Aaton mount or Arri bayonet mount or Nikon mount??? any workarounds or recommendations you can help me with.....