Dan Hasson

Hey, I haven't used my Canon 814 in two years and picked it up recently. When I turned it on and held down the trigger to test it (no film was in the camera), nothing happened. So I put four fresh double AA batteries in and still nothing. This never happened before and the trigger would work film in the camera or not. The camera was perfect when I used it and has only been sitting on the shelf for the past two years. It was never dropped or even handled, apart to wipe dust off. Here is a video to show what I mean: However a minute after I recorded this video I tried the trigger again and it made a sound but only a frame at a time. You can hear/see what I mean in this video: Any ideas and help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dan

This is the stuff that can be used to clean permanent marker off the slate.

I like to shoot RAW and scan film in at TIFF (although I haven't shot film in a while). I usually take stills with a deep depth of field (just my preference) so am at f8, f11 or f16. So for example, when I'm in low light or inside and I dial the ISO to 3200 at maybe 1/60th and f8, I know that I can bring up the exposure and/or shadows in Lightroom as I'm shooting RAW. But even in day light or a lot of light, I shoot RAW just for the control (or idea of control). I like to have the 'negative' per say and then make a 'print' from that. I also like to tweak the hues of my colours. I know you can do this with a JPEG fine but I just prefer knowing I have a lot of data to work with, although I hardly push the colours that much. I guess my point is that I have in the back of my mind whilst shooting how I could tweak things in post. I've got some stills on my website (a bit of self promotion, sorry) where you can see that I'm not what may be seen as 'over processing'. For the point of RAW vs. JPEG... I'm not sure really. Its an interesting topic but I guess it comes down to the needs of the photographer. A close friend who shoots photos as a hobby asked me for advice when they got into it. I explained RAW as best I could but he decided to just shoot JPEG because it works for him. He doesn't need RAW. But another friend is a photojournalist and only shoots RAW, as do his colleagues. He's the one who says that about having the 'negative' then making a 'print' from that as they used to.

SOLD. Thank you for everyone who messaged. Best, Dan

Hello, Some of you may recognise some of the film stock I am selling as I have tried before. I think what prevented it was me wanting more money that its probably worth and being stubborn about it. So even if you have offered before I am way more open to offers but please read all of the following carefully. All of this stock was given to me at the end of other productions that I worked on as crew. Production were kind enough to give them to me and I always had the intention to shoot them but after this amount of time I feel its better for me to get them to someone who actually will. ALL CANS HAVE BEEN IN THE FRIDGE SINCE THE DATES SHOWN For sale are ten cans of Kodak film stock: 35mm 500T/5219 1000ft re-can (re-canned 28 July 2018) 16mm 500T/7219 200ft short end (short ended 12 August 2019) 16mm 500T/7219 210ft short end (short ended 13 August 2019) 16mm 500T/7219 400ft NR (13 August 2019) * 16mm 250D/7207 400ft NR (13 August 2019) * 16mm 250D/7207 110ft short end (short ended 13 August 2019) 16mm 500T/7219 300ft short end (short ended 17 Feb 2018) * The two cans of 16mm with NR written on the tape around the can are from the same job with the dates 12/13 August 2019. I do not know what NR means (is it, 'Not Recommended'?) so if someone can help me here that would be great. And: 3x 16mm 200T/7213 400ft ** **So the 3x 16mm 200T/7213 400ft were in a cupboard in a studio where I worked in 2017. The manager thought they were only a couple months old but I do not know. The studio gave them to me and have been in the fridge since then, which was August 2017. For this reason of uncertainty on their age and their storage prior to being in my possession, I'll throw these in for free. PRICES As there are various stocks and feet, different dates from the past four years and my inexperience in film stock value, I do not have a fixed price. I am open to discussion/offers. I would prefer to sell just in the UK but if you are willing to pay the postage fees then I'm happy to sell abroad. I am based in central London. Please message me for higher res photos of the film stock, I had to compress everything down to fit for the post, as well as discussing prices and any more info you require. Thank you, Dan

No worries Hamad. Hope the shoot went well!

Hi Hamad, I did my best to answer your question already. I think you may have posted twice? Anyway, here's a link to the other post with what I answered. Best, Dan

Hi Hamad, Here is a good tutorial on the XL-S (I'm not sure of the difference between the XL and the XL-S but this should help): In answer to your question, how can you transfer recorded files? Super8 is film and not digital so you'll need to send the cartridge off to a lab where they can develop and scan the film into digital files for you. Once they have scanned, they'll either send you the digital files (maybe via dropbox or something similar) or sending you back the files on a USB or harddrive (usually you would send them a USB or harddrive for them to send back to you). I'm not sure where the closest lab to Lagos is. Somewhere in France maybe? Just bare in mind the postage cost and having your package flown where it might go through x-ray machines that have the potential to damage your film before it gets to the lab. There are three great labs (that I know of) here in the UK: Cinelab: https://www.cinelab.co.uk/ Gauge Film: https://www.gaugefilm.co.uk/ On8mil: https://www.on8mil.com/ I've only used Gauge Film and have had fantastic results and co-operation. As I say these are just UK and the ones I know. Maybe there is others on this forum who know of a lab(s) closer to Lagos? In answer to your other question, is it a one time usage? Yes it is. Once a cartridge has been shot you cannot use it again as the film inside has been exposed and then developed. So you'd have to buy more after that. Each cartridge is 3 and 1/2 minutes at 18fps or 2 and 1/2 and 24fps. Hope this helps and perhaps there are others who can provide you with more info as I'm not an expert in super8. Let us know how it goes? Best, Dan

Hey, Nice one Vital. Thank you for the info and the response! Dan

I am referring to the caches yes. Thats a great idea, I'll try that. Thank you for getting back to me Tyler!

Hi, I've been editing a project for a few months now and just realised all the render cache was being saved to my desktop and has taken up a huge amount of room. So on the project settings I have moved the destination folder to the drive I'm editing off and have synced up the cache folder from the desktop. My question is, now I have synced and moved the destination for the future render cache of the same project, am I able to delete the folders from my desktop? It seems logical that this should be completely fine to do. But better safe than sorry so thought I'd check and hopefully get a response from someone who has better knowledge of davinci. Thank,s Dan

You can get the qtake app (also can get on iPad) and connect to the video operators system. Problem is there is a few second delay (because it connects with wifi and not teradek) and picture is not the best.

Great advice Mark, thank you. Reassuring to hear others have gone through similar Bruce. Thank you I'll be taking up your suggestion for sure! Thank you David. That has been on my to watch list for a while now. Seeing as England seems to be slipping into another lockdown I may have the chance!

Hi, First of all, I have tried searching for old posts and cannot find much. If there are I'd appreciate being show and letting off for starting a new post. I'm cutting together a film. In one exterior scene, the sun was coming in and out of thick clouds. It was a super low budget film and I'm doing this for free so this is not something we could overcome in the short time we had the exterior location for. Fortunately the film is black and white and it seems to help cutting the shots together. The story is strong enough where it seems to cut together fine so far. But after watching things dozens of times its hard tell now.... My question is, are there examples of films/scenes where this happens? Cutting together of a sunny exterior shot and a cloudy exterior shot? It would be reassuring to see where it has happened before where most audiences (general audience, not skilled folks like yourselves) probably have not noticed. I'm not asking for people to see if mine cut together, rather if there are examples of other films where it has happened. Thanks, Dan

I saw a 15/70mm projection at the BFI IMAX in London the other day. Damn the projection was amazing but that story was so damn difficult to understand. I would like to watch it again to try and understand it more. Kenneth Brannagh's performance was outstanding in my opinion. Also the stunts and the SFX was so good to experience.