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Omar Lopex

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About Omar Lopex

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  • Occupation
    Director
  • Location
    San Diego

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  1. Frank: Thanks for the book recommendation. This is my first go at this & I had assumed I would be able to work with a rough sketch of the final image, shoot the live-action first, & then have the matte produced afterwards. I can understand doing the matte first, then live-action (like shooting wide then doing closeups), but is it absolutely necessary to do it that way, or do you think I can do it in the order I have planned? David: Thanks as well. I had assumed I would film the mattes (after getting digital scans of live-action footage), process/scan the matte footage, &
  2. Hi All, I’m preparing to shoot a couple scenes that will involve using hand-painted mattes (a là Black Narcissus, Star Wars, etc). One shot is day exterior on 35mm Kodak 200T, the other is night interior on 35mm 500T. Below are basic storyboards. Other than exposing correctly (at +1 for these particular stocks) is there anything else I should take into account to make the eventually composting with hand-painted titles easier/better? Thanks in advance for any advice.
  3. Does anyone have image grabs of frames that show the supposed streak that happens in the S16 space when the mirrors are not adjusted? Image grabs that show the scratch marks in S16 space when the magazine is not modified? I'm converting my SRII to Ultra-16 to avoid costs of Super-16 conversion, but want to double-check if I can't just go all the way and do the S16 conversion, then just crop around the streaked/scratched parts (if by chance they tend to happen only on corners?). My camera has already been modified to use M42 mount 35mm lenses, so realigning the lens shouldn't be
  4. I'm looking for an ND filter that goes behind the lens (so it doesn't darken the viewfinder) on a CP-16R. I see the little slot for the lenses, and I've read of people referring to them in the forums, but I can't find them when I search online to purchase. Do they have a specific name? Are they a universal size / interchangeable among camera models? The guy at my local vintage/used camera store sort of knew about them but said he didn't remember what they were called.
  5. Yea the first time I watched it on my phone and couldn't really notice it, but on a computer screen it's visible. This is also an SD scan, so if I can see it here it would be even worse in a 2K scan (the format I would telecine the final product in)
  6. Hi Jay, Thanks for your reply. The only thing is that you can see the flicker through the entire test, even in the shots indoors. In all the different lighting schemes, the flicker is the same, I think it's just more noticeable in the overexposed shot. And the flicker is in the center of the frame, not the edges, like I'm led to believe the CP-16R with bow tie shutter causes.
  7. Hi, not sure what forum this belongs in. I did a very short camera test for my CP-16R. I have a CP-16A which I've shot with and never had problems, but I bought this R model to use prime lenses on it instead of the standard angenieux. I have the bow-tie or butterfly model that is infamous for light streaks in the upper right corner, so I was testing for that. It doesn't look like I got any of the streaks people associate with this model (maybe I didn't have bright enough subject matter in the upper corners?) but... there is a subtle (but constant) flicker in the center of the frame.
  8. I had an adaptor machined to fit a set of 35mm super takumar lenses (28mm, 35mm, 135mm, M42 thread) onto the CP mount of a CP-16R. I have used these lenses before with a K3 with no problems. I have the CP-16R model with a bow tie shutter and have just recently become aware of the smearing problem they are notorious for. -will the coating on the super taks help avoid the smearing? -will stopping down to F8 and smaller help avoid smears? (I will be shooting on vision 50d and 250d, using mostly natural light but also some 1ks for indoors) Any advice in how to avoid smearing, and an
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