Brian Doran

Unfortunately, a gel can only selectively block or transmit the color that is present in the original light source. You could probably use a full stop CTO, but the color rendition would almost certainly be worse than a native 3200 LED or real tungsten fixture.

The Gemini has a beam angle of 93° compared to the Skypanel's beam angle of 105°, a difference of about 11%. At 5600°K from 10 ft, the Gemini puts out 97 foot-candles compared to the Skypanel's 111 foot-candles, a difference of about 13%. At 3200°K from 10 ft, the Gemini puts out 82 foot-candles compared to the Skypanel's 113 foot-candles, a difference of about 27%. This information is pulled from the Gemini data sheet on Litepanel's website, and from ARRI's Photometric app.

Hi David, You mention frequencies is the 1000Hz plus range, is the intent to use the Skypanels for high-speed photography? I'm sure you're already aware of it, but I would certainly recommend using the dedicated high-speed mode.

Hi Phil, I think it's necessary for us to know more about the head before a determination can be made. If we could track down a wiring diagram for both items, that would be ideal. I worry there could be differences in safety loop circuitry. Brian

I found a neat, short explanation of why the angle of light matters in illuminating smoke/vapors. The website seems to be about some sort of rendering software, but this page has a brief explanation of scattering anisotropy. https://help.jawset.com/en/c4d/container_parameters/rendering/smoke_shader/illumination

While I agree with the overall sentiment that LEDs generally cannot compete with HMIs, I don't think that it makes sense to consider the rate of falloff to be anything but directly proportional the initial output. The rate of falloff is not different from one source to another, the inverse square law always remains the same. I suppose you might mean that the lower light output can be offset by how close you can comfortably stage an LED to the talent, in which case, I would agree. The lack of infrared emissions from most RGB LEDs certainly makes the beam feel colder, and I don't just mean color temperature wise.

The Sekonic L-28-C-2 features a "high slide" that divides the light level by 32. This slide is at the top of the meter, and should have a small metal handle to pull it out. More information can be found in this user manual. https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cameramanuals.org%2Fflashes_meters%2Fsekonic_l-28c2.pdf

Osram, Phillips, and Ushio all list their operating positions as "any", though maybe they would tell you something different if you called. It seems to me that the orientation simply doesn't matter with single-ended lamps. The crack on the base of your lamp is certainly not good news, but I would expect the lamp to keep on running for now. Eventually, the vacuum seal of your outer envelope will fail, and so will the lamp. You might notice a white buildup on the glass as the lamp gets worse. As for greasing the worm-gear of your M18 focus drive, I would say go ahead, but be sure to use a high-temperature lubricant. It is possible that the squeaking is indicative of something other than corrosion of your focus drive. Perhaps the lamp-lock lever has been forced forward or backward by impact, maybe shipping. If that were to happen, the lamp carriage could become twisted slightly. When you move your lamp carriage into full flood position, does the lamp rotate slightly?

Hi Greg, It looks like your link is dead! Brian