D John Carroll
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Everything posted by D John Carroll
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Hello, Are these still available? I have the 12mm and id love to round out the set
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I have one of each
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Checking in on this ancient thread
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I’ve done some work on this idea
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The size difference is no problem, that can be solved with step up rings
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Yea I agree. i use my 3D printer. It has a .4mm nozzle so it can handle printing fine threads. I’ve done m12 and C mount threads without issue. once you find a design you like it can be emailed to a company with a CNC or lathe. if I were rigging the camera on set in this way, I would use steel arms to mount it where the 15mm rods go, and then add a hole for the rods to mount on. basically a cheese plate in between the rods and the camera body, using that thread position. That would give it the least travel distance and wouldn’t interfere with the top handle. any offset issue introduced for the follow focus in the 15mm rods would be solved by using a dog leg
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If the front of the taking lens is threaded, using step-up couplers you could connect it to the original eye piece mount via the thread. It would require a little research to figure the thread of the original eyepiece but I’m sure it can be done. that would at least give it a 2nd point of stability. it could also have another arm going from the top cheese plate of the bmpcc to the 15mm rods, gripping them with a nano clamp. or use a dog leg similar to when a zoom motor is mounted above the lens
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Hey this is awesome! I love it. Very nice work. you didn’t even have to use macro step up rings, hit it right with that minimum focus. Great! Is it a 25mm lens? yes there’s definitely a good Phase point between the shutter and the bmpcc. Just gotta get you a nice secure mount and it’s perfect! I also love that you now have a recording tap for playback.
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Yes very possible
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Do it! the board cameras are only about $20 so it’s very reasonable to give it a shot!
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Aha yes I agree! Good investment! my hope is once we finds good camera (raspberry pi or otherwise) I can design a nice 3d housing for it and release the .stl files for anyone to use. im going to try with my bmpcc and Aaton now. See how it works.
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Very nice! ive haven’t had an issue with the dynamic range on my camera, I’ve tested it in both extreme low light and daylight. As it’s a cctv security camera it needs to have pretty wide operating conditions. it needs to be set in automatic shutter, dwdr, and auto iris. It compensates very well. as far as the bore hole, there are no moving parts that interfere with the bore hole, so I haven’t had any issues. Getting too close to the beam splitter yes, but otherwise no. I have a bmpcc, the reason I haven’t tested with it is due to the size, though if you are very interested I could set it up and see how it looks. glad we’re testing out options on this! i have a new camera board arriving Friday to test
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Here’s some images https://m.imgur.com/a/9lKYSLs
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I have an Aaton s16 XTR, PL short and long heated eyepiece 4 mags Origin C timecode speed control hand grip short and long rods custom color tap, will include b/w XC-99 and Aaton vsu tap 5 16v Aaton batters 2 chargers 1 discharger 1 Oppenheimer battery adapter flight cases I’ve also got a full super speed mkii set, including both Aspheron wide adapters, and s16 Cooke zoom and Arri zoom, nyc based pm me with interest
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Yea I agree this is the better option. ive actually done a bunch of looking into Computer Vision and OpenCV for using it. And implementing other functionality. Honestly I got a little out of my depth with the coding since it’s not an area I know much about. But it does seem like a reasonable thing to want to do. as far as a straight HDMI pass through system yea. Especially with the new HD camera they just announced
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Nice! yes I had an eclair NPR and I began this whole process with that camera. i agree removing the eyepiece is best. Lessen the number of elements you’re working with. Now that you see the ease of introducing another element between the viewfinder and body once you removed it, you’ll see the ease with which you could introduce a 50/50 beam splitter, which you can purchase on eBay quite easily. you’ll need to have the proper threaded mounts on either side to secure it thats why I purchased the 3d printer. My first one was about $150 and performs as well just slower. Very helpful for this type of prototyping.
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AATON VSU Mk II manual - anyone have a copy?
D John Carroll replied to Robin Phillips's topic in Aaton
Ah, I see I read vsa and you want vsu. My bad. Sorry for the false hope -
AATON VSU Mk II manual - anyone have a copy?
D John Carroll replied to Robin Phillips's topic in Aaton
I have the 1999 manual. Lmk if this is what you’re looking for https://imgur.com/a/BTPfL4C -
AATON VSU Mk II manual - anyone have a copy?
D John Carroll replied to Robin Phillips's topic in Aaton
Are you still looking? -
images https://m.imgur.com/a/vWLWObm
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Selling my B set for my second camera illumina 16mm t1.2 iumina 25mm t1.2 zeiss super speed 50mm mkii t1.2 all in B mount. I’ve kept them in B because it is a more versatile mount. Easily adapted to PL mount with b->pl, or changed with zeiss 8 hole pl mount all have been film and digital tested, can provide. the 16mm has some burnishing and edge marks on the front, flawless rear 25mm perfect condition 50mm has a small cleaning mark on the rear, does not affect image. the 50mm will cover s35 mode fully on a7s looking for $2800 OBO this is basically the price for the 50mm with the illumina for free I will add a link for the images
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This is a bit of a silly answer, but it’s any resolution you want. m12 cctv cameras come in all resolutions. The only difference is price. The one I’m using for this test is a 600tvl (television lines) of resolution. It cost about $30. for $40 you can get a 1080p sdi m12 camera from Panasonic. for about $200 you can get a 4k c mount cctv camera with hdmi or hdsdi out for example Du-All in their taps they offer for the sr3 or bolex, those are about $400 so it’s really up to you how much you want to spend for what resolution
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I have a makerbot. Going to look into printing this today. way to go I love this
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I’ve made a similar system with a small m12 $40 camera you can buy off amazon. in this video I set it up with the beam splitter, but it can also be used with the eyepiece no problem
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I agree I prefer the eyepiece. And always a meter for exposure for sure! TBH the point of this was for steadicam/gimbal, since it can be used with the daylight spool cameras as well.
