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Ivana Durkacova

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  1. You're right, I had trouble opening this particular cartridge and the film slipped, I loaded the messy ball to another spool and from there to the spiral, so it the sides turned inside out. Damn. Painful lesson. I so wish I could soak it in something still and save it.
  2. Hey there, I am developing super 8 colour negative, first film came out great, second one, not so much. There is the blue layer left on the film, if it were black and white, I would thought not enough bleach. Any advice? Could it be still saved? It was fixed already though. I even tried to put a bit back to the bleach and another one to developer, but it does nothing 😞 Some parts of the film are fine, some are all blue, some just have these blue spots between sprockets. Help?
  3. I am but I think I am going to get Goko NF 2002 instead, as I found one really cheap, and will get something for 16 mil later.
  4. Dear Pavan, have you been happy with your Muray 8/16 editor? I've been searching and searching for presumably non-existing viewer I could use for both types of film and after seeing your post, I actually found one Muray on eBay. Only with a Super 8 block though. I would have to keep on looking for 16 mm still. Not sure if worth it now as I've had my eyes on some Goko or Elmo Super 8 viewers. It would be nice though to have just one "box" instead of two, at the same time I am not sure if it's (quality)wise.
  5. Thank you, everyone, it seems that a bleach (potassium-based) was a problem indeed. I've been agitating lots more now. I've also noticed that the FOMA instructions on mixing are slightly different in English/Czech and German, so I tried the German version with reduced volume and tested several strips. It's so much better: I've developed 5 test strips, first following the German mixing instructions and times, and then adding 15 seconds per test to every step because I also wanted to see if you can reuse the chemistry. It seems that black is a lot deeper when developing times are a bit longer, even the 2nd one. But then again, the 3rd one came out almost clear. It looked great during 2nd exposure, but suddenly that yellowish color went a bit darker, which was odd. Still, I've continued with 2nd developer and fixer anyway just to watch the emulsion wash away in the end. Can you over-expose the film during the re-exposure? Then I did two more, all good. And the chemistry still works. Does it mean it would work in a large volume and with full-length film? I don't want to find out with serious material 😱. I've read that developer can be tested on an exposed piece of film, is it possible to somehow verify if the bleach and clearing bath still work too?
  6. Oh thank you Mark. That's what I thought at first but in that case the film from the bottom level of the spiral should be fine, right? But it's almost all ruined, except about 30 cm that is completely fine – which is rather odd too because if there's a problem with chemistry or something (bleach maybe?), nothing should come out fine, I think. Also, it was all freshly opened and mixed. So I tried again, just a bit of film and plenty of chemistry, but the film came out completely black, even though I could see the image clearly during the 2nd exposure. I just don't get it, I've used this kit before with Kodak super8 films and it came out beautifully.
  7. Hello everyone, I just hand-processed a roll of 16 mm in LOMO tank and the film is either all black or half-brownish, like on the picture. Visible frames are like underneath this brown strip. Is it possible that the tank leaks the light in? Wouldn't the film be clear in that case? Film is reversal FOMAPAN R, developed in FOMA kit. I am fairly new at this and probably asking something obvious? Thank you for any advice, Ivana
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