Daniel Meier

Wow Allyn this looks amazing. Thanks for sharing. That is excactly what I am looking for. Could you imagine modding this for me? Of course I would cover all expenses and shipping. Here's my mail so we could have further conversation outside off the topic: daniel@framefive.de

Thanks Robert and Dom for your help. Where else could I get hold of a wideangle lens for the REX 5? I already have a 10mm but I want to go even wider. Nowadays on the web I can't seem to find anyone selling a Century 3.5mm or a 5.7mm. Are there any other options out there on the market to go lower than 10mm on the Bolex H16 these days?

I'm planning on getting this lens (mainly for my BMPCC): https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1022991-REG/kowa_lm6hc_c_mount_6mm_f_1_8_16_1.html/reviews I also wonder if it will get me a usable image on my Bolex Rex 5. Maybe some of you can tell from the specs. Maybe some of you even used it before. I am aware of the terms "RX- and Non-RX" lenses. But haven't yet dived too deep into topic. What is the downside of using this particular Non-RX lens on the Rex?

I don't know the exact expiration date of the film stocks. I purchased a bunch of stocks along with the camera, back when I got it from an ebay seller. But I think it should be fine, since the copyright says "2017". Maybe you can tell better from the photos I made?

Sorry for the late response. I was on vacation. Thank you for all your replies. It helped a lot. I did a test with a mini LED flashlight. And I quickly found out that a missing screw caused the light leak to happen. I remember that the turret lock screw broke. So I decided to get rid of the mechanism at all, since I would still use the Turret Plug to keep the turret from spinning. Now I screwed everything back in - except for the silver part that is supposed to lock the turret. This one can't be tightened anymore due to the missing screw (which is broken and half of it got stuck inside the thread). The attached image should help grasping.

I've aquired this camera about two years ago. Shot two rolls of 100ft and everything looked fine. Last fall I started shooting my 3rd roll of film. This time I went for 500T stock. When I got it back from the lab and scanning, it had these really nasty light leaks. (Starting at 0:53 in the YT link) https://youtu.be/3_QMzjQ5GLs I shot the first third of the roll in Paris. Then went back to my home (Germany) and that first shot I took there had this light leak thing going on. I took it some days after I came back from Paris. Now I am wondering about the cause and the root of the issues. Did the camera got damaged during transportation? Is it just a regular light leak happening because the camera wasn't sealed good enough? Did any of you experience similar effects? And what about those 10 frames of white happening every 5 frames after a new shot. I didn't change anything on the camera, except for lenses. Always kept the slide filter in with some 85B filter. To balance the 500T for daylight. The only other thing that changed is how I store the camera, when not shooting with it (but film still being loaded in it) The shelf where the camera sits now has a decent amount of top-light (LED). But I also made sure that there is no light coming in from the top compartment of the camera, where a 400ft mag could be installed. I spent about 210€ for developing and scanning only. Can't afford this to happen again 😄 Would be very pleased to hear your experiences.

I want to power a couple of my LED Panels (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1316114-REG/yongnuo_yn1200w_yn1200_led_video_light.html) for filming skateboarding outdoors. Would you recommend using an inverter generator for that purpose or can I use a regular (cheaper) standard generator for that matter? I am pretty new to the world of gennys. So I have no idea if a simple LED light such as the Yn-1200 falls under the category of voltage-sensitive electronic devices such as laptops or computers, that obviously should only be powered with inverter generators, to avoid damage. I was also wondering about the difference of using regular tungsten lights with a genny. Do they handle voltage variations better than LED (are they studier in that concern)? Would be great to get a little insight here.

That makes perfect sense. Thank you Jean-Louis! Wouldn't have thought that they'd use the metric system.

I am still pretty new to this camera. And I was wondering what the footage counter indicates. So I took a look in the manual. The lower left indicator shows, how much feet have advanced through the camera, right? So if I have a 100ft roll in the camera it should advance up to 100ft. I shot 24fps all the way so far. According to this photo, I already exposed 6ft of film, right? But then again, the frame counter indicates roughly 730 frames. Does this make sense? I put these figures through a calculator and it actually should read something around 18ft. Which makes more sense, because I filmed for about 30 seconds so far.

Any ideas, what the problem might be here?

Tried both lenses on my BMPCC4K today using the Metabones C-Mount to MFT adaptor. Both worked great. The 18-86mm was nearly 100% parfocal on the BMPCC4k. And I could focus even past infinity on the 10mm. Must be a misalignment in the Camera then, right?

Like I said, I already checked the diopter settings multiple times.

That's a good idea. Although I think the lenses are ok. But they might make a good fit on my BMPCC4K.

Dear community. I recently got me a Bolex Rex5 camera. The set included two lenses. The Kern Vario-Switar 18-86mm/f2.5 zoom and a Schneider Cinegon 10mm/f1.8 prime lens. It seems like the focus of the 10mm won't reach to infinity. Here is a video demonstrating that: https://vimeo.com/426998946/3241902a4f The zoom lens also gives me trouble keeping focus throughout the zoom range. A Bolex user (Ben Ericson on this forum) told me that his 18-86mm is parfocal. On my camera it doesn't work as a parfocal lens. Here is also a video demonstrating that: https://vimeo.com/426999919/166835a0f8 Things I already tried troubleshooting: - checking multiple diopter settings of my viewfinder (making sure the groundglass is in focus - I guess you can also tell from the video samples that it is) - making sure the lenses are tightly attached on their mounts Do you have any idea what might be the problem here? Is it the camera itself that needs adjustments? I bought the set for about 1200€. The seller said that all components are in perfect conditions.

Me and two of my colleagues want to dive into new cinematography fields: I was mainly responsible for the lighting and DPing and did all the color grading. Please feel free to comment.