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Showing results for tags 'bolex'.
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Hallo cinematographers. I have been following this forum for a while, but this is my first post here. I found a Bolex H16 REX3 that works flawlessly, but it came with a Rex-O-Fader installed which I want to get rid of, but it seems I'm not able to. I proceeded following the installing instructions (in reverse) by unscrewing the locking screw and the rewind handle, but the Rex-O-Fader doesn't come out, since is kept in place by the small cog or sprocket where the rewind handle is screwed in. From what I can understand by watching at pictures on the web (Rex-O-Fader instructions don't help) the cog should stay screwed on the rewind handle (which seems it is a special handle and not the normal one). In my case instead, the cog stays screwed on the rewind spindle, where it seems is stuck. After removing the Rex-O-Fader cover (by removing the four small screws) I unsuccessfully tried to unscrew the cog (turning clockwise, of course), also with the aid of pliers, but of course I didn't dare to apply too much force, fearing to damage the cog itself or the motor spring. Anybody can help me? thanks Livio
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Hi. I am selling my Bolex H16 EL kit based in the UK. Please check out the EBAY link if you are interested, thanks. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301706573491?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 :) -
I recently obtained this camera from an old friend, and I was looking to date it, but from what I've found, I cannot find serial dates starting with my numbers (140000). Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Super 8 kit for sale. All carefully serviced, film tested, with clear lenses and in fully working, near mint condition. Minolta XL-84 - £149.99 (RL button intentionally removed) Canon AF514XL-S - £124.99 Canon 514XL-S + 43mm C8 wide lens - £99.99 Sankyo XL-620 - £99.99 Sankyo XL-420 - £74.99 Bolex Aspheron 4mm (55mm thread) Wide Lens - £34.99 Canon 43mm C8 wide lens - £49.99 Canon 67mm C8 wide lens - £99.99 Prices in GB Pounds Sterling. Based in London UK. billrodgersfilms@hotmail.com -
Hi guys, was look to see if anyone knows if a Schneider 10mm f1.8 is usable on a H16 reflex. Looking for a 10mm to use on my Bolex and Milliken. Thanks
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPgZVTFzG3I --This's the link to a short 16mm film I did back in 2005, shot on bolex. I think it turned out pretty good, despite the choppy editing and a few -out-of-focus shots. Let me know what you think :)
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Can bolex be converted to super 16? If so, which models? Also, can bolexes be outfitted for crystal sync/ electric motor? Just curious, thanks.
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Hello. I have been making short movies all my life. Went to Pittsburgh filmmakers and shot a couple 3 min long films in 16mm. In 2007 I bought a canon hv20. It's a hdv camcorder that takes the old, small tapes. Anyway, here's my thoughts. The 16mm film I did (the one that turned out well and not grossly overexposed) looked phenomenal to my eyes. I''d/I've never done anything else that looked that good. It was done on Kodak 16mm color neg 200t. I used a bolex from school with ordinary, non zoom lenses. So, ff to 2007. When I took a few videos with hv20, I was floored by the quality. I compared it to the 16mm film I did. The 16mm still looked better, and handled colors better. However, with the hv20, after tinkering with it a while , I've gotten COMPLETELY mixed results. I've learned that if you're shooting on video, everything has to be PERFECT to get the same quality every time. It's almost as if the stars have to be right to remain consistent. I mean, I have lit it well and it looks like crap, and I've lit it poorly and it looks great. Vice-versa. I just got back some 16mm b and w reversal I shot with a bolex. Looks good. however, after comparing it to a few of my "good days" footage with the hv20 (b&w in post), the hv20 clearly stands out. So now I'm shaking my head, confused more than ever. The HDV tapes are exceedingly cheaper than film and do produce excellent image quality... if everything is done absolutely perfect every time. How do I do this? I just don't know what I'm doing wrong to get some things looks great and some things that look like a 1980s videocam.
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Hi Can anyone share the service manual for Bolex H16EL version, as i found on internet but not successful, i bought this camera and i have managed to power it, when i press the battery test white button, the light lit, but the camera don't work, sometimes a relay like sound heard when i press the shutter button, so i need some professional advise to fix this issue, i am sure it will be fixed, as it was never been used since 1995, and kept in the box.so i think it was stuck, and need some new oil and grease to get this beast work again. Thanks in advance.
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I found a super cheap switar lens on eBay. It's a 16mm lens. Below is a link. My question is.... Would this be relatively a "normal" lens for a bolex? I would rather get a ten mm, but don't want to pay 200.00+ for one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kern-Paillard-Switar-AR-f1-8-16mm-C-Mount-Camera-Lens-No-Reserve-/371264300473?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item567113a5b9
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Hi mates, i have a Kern-Vario Switar 12.5-100 f2 PTL with Auto zoom and exposure, i need to know that is it possible to use this lens manually on a dslr.? by mounting.? and also i need some instruction manual for this lens, the aperture seems to be weird, 2 blades, and also not moving, as i dont have the battery inside the lens, so kindly someone guide me some basics about this lens and also if there is some proper manual then it will e a great help. Thanks -
Hello, I recently bought a bolex 16mm film camera. Runs well. However, everything in the viewfinder is very very dark, even with quite a bit of light and aperture fully open. Is there anyway to fix this? Also, I got a 25mm to 100mm zoom lens for it. Almost impossible to focus because viewfinders so dark. Besides that, even when zoomed out all the way, things appear closer than they should. I have to stand at the other end of the room just to get a medium cu shot. Any ideas? Thanks.
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Hello, I'm posting this to see if theres anyone looking for or with an intrest in this lens I have a mint condition century 1.9mm fisheye that i would be willing to let go for the right price, This lens is extremely rare
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I have a filmmaker friend who recently gave me his old Bolex H16 Reflex absolutely free over the holiday season. He has since graduated to a high-end digital setup, but said that the H16 Reflex properly cared for will give many years of service and can deliver great results for low-budget filmmakers. I'm a student, so low-budget pretty accurately describes my operation. However I'd be willing to invest in a lens that would suit my needs. I do stop-motion animation (seeking a BFA in Animation), and would like to use film for my project. The Bolex came with a pistol grip, a supplemental film magazine, cable release and a Vario Switar 18-86mm f. 25 OE lens. I'm wondering: what kind of lenses / accessories would I need to make the H16 Reflex suitable for stop motion animation? The lens I'm currently looking at is a Kern Switar 10mm f 1.6. Apologies for lack of knowledge, as I am an amateur. Thanks!
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So I'm pretty new to 16mm stuff, I've gradually been making the switch from digital. It's been pretty fun. Right now I'm using a Bolex as my A-Cam and two old Keystones as my crash cams. Yeah, I'm working on filling the gap between those two, but that's not the point. One thing that I've given up since making the switch was my anamorphic lenses. I love them to pieces, they're just awesome. However, I've had trouble finding a conclusive solution for a c mount anamorphic lens. It's kind of frustrating, and I was wondering what my options realistically are. I've heard several different ideas on this forum, one of which is using projector lenses. I've never really had to do that, so would that be a good option? I don't know that I've encountered much projection glass well-suited for shooting, but maybe I just haven't seen enough. I would really like to stay away from anamorphic adapters. I guess if that's the best option then I can use them, but I've always stuck to the real thing. Last thing, cost is a big factor here. I'm a big fan of quality glass, but I don't use these cameras enough to drop a lot of money on one lens. So if that means I should just get a lens adapter and use some cheap anamorphic glass for a different mount, I can do that. I just want to know what my options are for an adapter-less setup, if that's even possible. Thanks much!
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Hello all, I've got a dour situation on my hands with my new Bolex H16. Not sure which model exactly - it's an eBay find - but it has a variable shutter so I think it's an Rx2. It was running fine this evening as I was putting my first roll through. I wanted to try to do a double exposure and rewound the camera a few feet. Then when I re-engaged the motor I heard an unnatural noise. Suffice to say, that motor isn't running any more. I've removed the film - there didn't seem to be any jams. I've tried single frame and slow-speed continuous running but neither have engaged the motor. The crank is tight, like it has a full wind, but won't move in either direction when engaged. And the rewind works... in both directions. Does this sound like a spring problem? Any other ideas? This is my first Bolex and I might have gotten to antsy to try out its special effects...
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Working Tobin Crystal Sync TXM 26 motor Allows the 16mm filmmaker to shoot crystal sync speeds of 7.5/12/15/24/30/48 Also allows 16mm Bolex filmmaker to shoot with HMI lights. I am throwing in my XLR battery. I can provide a video of the motor running upon request
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Working Tobin Crystal Sync TXM motor Allows the 16mm filmmaker to shoot crystal sync speeds of 7.5/12/15/24/30/48 Also allows 16mm Bolex filmmaker to shoot with HMI lights. I am throwing in my XLR battery. I can provide a video of the motor running upon request I am open to meeting up locally within NYC. It has served me well! I hope it finds a good 16mm filmmaker. I can email you pictures and video of the motor working, I cannot upload on this site because my file sizes are too big, just msg me. -
Shooting a student project on the Bolex H-16 camera, I understand that 25% of light is lost by going into the viewfinder. That means that on a normal light meter it has to be compensated for right? I will be using 250D stock, would setting the ASA on the light meter to 160 compensate for this? and then could I use the light meter as normal? Also is there any common problems or tips and tricks that might be useful for me to know before the shoot? Thanks Will
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Shooting a student project on the Bolex H-16 camera, I understand that 25% of light is lost by going into the viewfinder. That means that on a normal light meter it has to be compensated for right? I will be using 250D stock, would setting the ASA on the light meter to 160 compensate for this? and then could I use the light meter as normal? Also is there any common problems or tips and tricks that might be useful for me to know before the shoot? Thanks Will
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The focus adjustment ring on my bolex h16 reflex camera is stuck. I have tried focusing the ground glass with the lenses removed and the camera pointed at a bright light source. The ring will move a little bit and I can see the ground glass blurring and sharpening, but I do not have full movement of the ring. I tried losening the screw on the focus ring and re-tightening it, and it still will not budge. It feels as if it is catching on something, I can hear a little clicking noise when I try to turn it. I am thinking that I may need to take apart the diopter to find out what is jamming it up internally. I can't figure out how to do this- apart from tightening and loosening the screw on the focus ring. If it is possible, I would like to try to repair this by myself. Any suggestions?
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Hi, I've got for sale standard 16mm camera set, including lenses, cables, filters... all fitted in Peli case. Camera is in fully working condition, I have used in only occasionally. The last user, had it got serviced in Bolex, Switzerland (in 2009). Camera is equipped with normal 16mm gate, bolex bayonet mount, in-camera filter holder and TTL exposure meter (till ASA 640) What's in set: Bolex EL 16mm camera mark.II Kern Vario-Switar compact zoom 17-85mm T3,8 Angenieux 15mm f1,3 Bolex bayonet - C-mount adapter (2x) C-mount - Arri Standard adapter gelatine filter holder (4x) battery cable 4pin XLR (2x) Peli case Price is €850 + shipping I'm located in Slovak Republic, and ship to E.U. and U.S.A. Photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/91204852@N05/sets/72157648786143401/ 16mm footage:
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Hi, I've got for sale standard 16mm camera set, including lenses, cables, filters... all fitted in Peli case. Camera is in fully working condition, I have used in only occasionally. The last user, had it got serviced in Bolex, Switzerland (in 2009). Camera is equipped with normal 16mm gate, bolex bayonet mount, in-camera filter holder and TTL exposure meter (till ASA 640) What's in set: Bolex EL 16mm camera mark.II Kern Vario-Switar compact zoom 17-85mm T3,8 Angenieux 15mm f1,3 Bolex bayonet - C-mount adapter (2x) C-mount - Arri Standard adapter gelatine filter holder (4x) battery cable 4pin XLR (2x) Peli case Price is €850 + shipping I'm located in Slovak Republic, and ship to E.U. and U.S.A. Photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/91204852@N05/sets/72157648786143401/ 16mm footage:
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Does anyone have any experience with this lens? Either on the bolex or otherwise? I believe it is C-mount, and I was hoping to maybe pick one up to test out on a pocket cam. Just wondering if anyone has any positive or negative experiences adapting it to a M43 mount.
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I'm having a clearout and so, unfortunately, this has to go. I have used it, it works well, but i have too many things on the go and this just doesnt get the use and love that it really should and i just need to make some room. Its the Bolex Jubilee Super 8 complete in its box, the outer box is a little bit tatty but it has the original sticker on it with the serial number and certificate number so it made sense not to throw it away as it felt like it supports its authenticity. It has the eyecup, the strap, the remote, the certificate (in its original envelope) and even the original purchase receipt from 13/06/1978 although i think the manufacturers warranty may be slightly out of date now, lol. Price....£45? Plus the delivery cost of your choice and i would prefer it to be a "signed for" service so we have insurance and can track it...peace of mind both ways really.
