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My Gear


Found 13 results

  1. I currently own a K-3 16mm camera that came with 5 ND filters. I'm trying to label them for shooting purposes, but there are no instructions on how to identify which filter is for what purpose. Does anyone know how to label them properly? Nathan
  2. Hello everyone, I've been lurking on these forums for a couple of years now, but this is my first time posting. Usually whenever I've had questions I can find answers here, and I'd like to thank you all because I have learned so much from this community. I have some concerns about my Krasnogorsk-3 that I'd like to discuss. I've been interested in learning to shoot on film, and I managed to purchase one back in January for about $60 after shipping. For a simple camera to learn on, I thought the price was great. As far as I can tell it runs smoothly and is in pretty good condition, but of course I'm not quite experienced enough to make that call. There are two things that I've noticed might be issues for my camera though, and before I start a short personal project I plan on doing soon, I'd like to get everyone's insight on it. One problem is that the top loop former doesn't move when I push down the plunger. I can physically pull it up myself, but it doesn't open up the way the bottom loop former does. At first I wasn't that worried about this because I was thinking I'd remove these anyway, but after watching the disassembly and reassembly videos several times, I chickened out and will likely send it to a professional for that if need be. The second problem is something I noticed that seems different about mine compared to those I see in Youtube videos about loading the camera. In a couple of these videos, the rollers that you feed the film into are able to open up slightly, as can be seen in this video here at 1:22. When I tried that, they won't budge at all. Are these serious problems for my K-3? Will it still work despite these issues? I appreciate any insight you all may have.
  3. Hey everyone, Lately I've been looking for wide angle m42 lenses to use on my K-3. I'm quite fond of wide angle lenses, so the limited options available for this camera have been a bit frustrating. Even more so though, I've been really frustrated with the minimum focus of 2 meters on the Meteor 5-1, so my objective lately has been to find a decently wide M42 lens with a much closer minimum focus that I can use as my "normal" lens. Naturally, I've come across the two most common options; the Peleng 8mm and the Zenitar 16mm. I've seen good images with both, but I feel like the Peleng's more apparent distortion might be annoying for some shots (even though I'd love to have that field of view). Perhaps I will try to acquire both eventually, but lately I've been leaning towards choosing the Zenitar and just dealing with the fact that it's not much wider. Then I discovered another wide angle M42 lens that doesn't seem to get mentioned much: the Peleng 17mm. Sure, the Meteor goes to 17mm, but the Peleng has a much closer minimum focus. Do any of you have experience with both the Peleng 17mm and the Zenitar? I've seen it suggested that the Peleng looks a bit sharper altogether, but I'm curious to see if any direct comparisons have been done. Thanks! P.S. If anyone knows where I can find an SMC Takumar 15mm for a good price, be sure to let me know... ;)
  4. Hello all, Just sharing a few K-3 impressions and asking one question: Just came back from a session of extensive K-3 camera/lighting testing, including view finder/focus and light metering. It's a sunny day. Film and scratch tests on old, unused footage looks good: no scratches. Still need to run the footage a couple more times to make sure. Upper loop was one perf short but it ran just fine and smoothly (no "beating" sound) at 24 fps - yet: that doesn't show how footage will actually turn out. BTW: I found out that - if you don't let the motor wind down to a halt - the camera transport mechanism always stops at the exact same point: view finder all clear and the pulldown claw exactly in the same position and all out. So the film won't slip between shots and loops should stay the exact same (that was the case with my first test run which I performed both with the mag cover open and closed (depressing the spring loaded pin with the same force (it can easily be measured by the film counter (no film loaded) which is attached to the loop former mechanism. I also found out that with the spring all wound down and the view finder blocked: just turn the winding "crank" a bit counterclockwise: bang: all in place - view finder open and pulldown claw out and in same position. Q: does anyone know the exact value of the ND filter that comes with the K-3? It has written: H-4x, which is probably meant to be a reduction of four f stops. It has the Zenit symbol and also has written: 77x0,75 . The latter probably refers to the dimensions. I measured the inside diameter of the filter thread: 77mm. I ran all kinds of spot metering with my Sekonic L 398-A, using both the luma disc and luma grid, with and without the filter completely touching the disc. I ran this test in various situations and at various ISO settings. I always came to the conclusion that the ND filter reduces (about) 2 1/2 stops - which is fine for me. Lots of intense sunlight here in Portugal during the long summers, a full four stops is a quite a lot, but I'd be fine with that as well. Just need to know the exact value. Can anyone confirm my ND filter readings? Any reply highly appreciated. Cheers, Christian
  5. What I'd like to know is can the k-2 be used with modern western film (the same as the k-3 uses). The reason I want the k-2 rather then the k-3 is that it has remove able cartridges witch would make loading film quicker. Is the governor accurate in the camera? I'd like to shoot with sound if I have to re-dubb I can, but I have at least some idea of how long that takes. If someone could explain how to do re-dubbing that be grate, though I could figure that out with enough time. I'd like to know to know if using the k-2 is as usable as the k-3. The rig I'm planing on using is a blimp with a non-reflex viewfinder (maybe bolex) mounted on it with some form of parlex corrector (though I'm not sure how the latter works). Depending on weather or not or I can get usable results with sound out of the unmodified camera, I would like to ether use a sync motor replacing the spring motor and drive shaft, or if the sound out of it works fine I would like to just have a motor wind the spring as it unwinds. (Any thoughts on all of this).
  6. anyone know what sence the Krasnogorsk-3 was used on in "get on the bus"?
  7. Hey Guys, Firstly, just wanted to say hey as this is my first post on here! Right, basically I received my Krasnogorsk K-3 yesterday from an ebay seller. Whilst the description did not note anything regarding my issue, i found as I looked through the viewfinder that there appears to be a fair few marks/hair/dust etc. Now, is this something that will affect my picture at all, or is it something thats purely on the glass of the view finder? ( I can learn to live with it if so) Failing that, how easy is it to take apart and clean said effected area, and which tools would be best for the job? Sorry i couldn't really supply any decent photos as the viewfinder is terribly dim and I can barely see through it, let alone my poor iPhone camera, but you might get the jist! Thanks in advance, Nick
  8. Hello, I will be converting my K-3 in the near future, I already have the re-centered ring but I still want to get hold of a spare gate to widen, just in case I mess it up, a spare would be ideal. Anyone have one? Cheers, Gareth
  9. Hello! I've been lurking around this forum for a while reading up on all kinds of film-related knowledge. Well, a couple of days ago I bought a K-3 for an upcoming project. I've been loading it with dummy-film over and over, preparing for the real deal, on tuesday I'm supposed to shoot a test roll. Well, to the problem. The first thing I noticed was that I heard a sound while handling the camera, a rattling sound as if something really small fell around inside the insides of the camera. Then later the camera jammed, after some thinking I realised that the rattling sound was gone, so whatever was in there was probably stuck in a cog. I rotated one of the cogs in the front using a pen (only taking the lens off), and the camera was rolling again, also the little rattling sound was back, this happened again, but since the fix was so easy I thought I'd wait with disassembling the whole thing. But now it's really stuck, nothing happens when I press the shutter button, the single-frame increment button doesn't work either, I've tried to take off the front part, but the screws are really really tight, so I have to get a better screwdriver. The camera is wound up completely, so I'm guessing it's not a good idea opening up the body unless you really know what's going on. I really like the camera, I haven't felt this exited about something since Christmas as a kid. And now I'm worried sick over the little guy. So I'm looking for any tips on how to approach the problem, any knowledge you got about what could be done. Also, I really need to get to bed, is it bad for the camera to leave it fully wound up for 12 hours?
  10. Hi all, I just picked up a K-3 for a comparatively inexpensive price. When I got it, I discovered the camera was jammed, and at full wind -- about 4 full turns -- it would only run for about eight seconds. I fixed the jam by raising the height of the drive sprocket -- it looks like someone who didn't know what they were doing took the thing apart to try and work on it, because the threads on one of the screws/posts holding the baffle plate on were stripped. Since I was able to fix the jam so easily, I'm wondering if anyone knows what the problem with the short run time is. If it's a matter of resetting something so the spring is allowed to wind fully, and is a procedure that's reasonably easy to do, I'd consider trying to fix it myself. Otherwise, I'll probably send the camera to DuAll. I figure it's not worth returning, because the combined shipping costs will then be as much as the camera. Does anyone know what might be causing the short wind, and is it possible to fix without the spring lopping my head off? Thanks in advance, Max
  11. To cinematography.com community, I recently just purchased an m42 krasnogorsk 3 off of ebay for 17.50 (which was a steal) , but i want to know some things. 1st- What lenses are compatible, any m42 or will shorter focal lengths cause vignetting? 2nd- What film works best with the k-3 unmodified? I want something balanced for tungsten but can be shot in daylight with a filter. 3rd- Is it worth it to get the light meter battery adapter, or should i use an external meter? 4th- Is the super 16 mod worth it? Thanks, J.M.
  12. I just bought krasnogorsk-3 and while i'm waiting for it to arrive i started to search for some data about it. To be quick here are the two main questions that i can't find any reliable answer to: 1. When did the production of k3 start and when did it end (- i guess with the collaps of ussr)? 2. Are there any movies that were shot with k3 (- i'll have to wait for a week or two until it arrives from Russia to Croatia, so i would like to watch some movie filmed with k3)? Sorry if there's already a post that answers this questions, i went through a lot of posts about k3 but i couldn't find anything.
  13. Hi, Here we are in the twilight of motion picture reversal stocks. Be that as it may be, I have spent the best part of a year learning how to load my K-3, I finally got it, and today no film jams - smooth running on Tri-X all the way ;) I have a new lens as well, the last one was full of lens fungus :-o The mirror through the viewfinder is dreadfully tarnished. It doesn't really bother me that much, but can I clean it? Shame to have a grubby mirror if it can be cleaned up a little. Am in the UK btw so anything I do will have to be DIY, I don't think there are any K-3 boffins over here. Many bests, Ric
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