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Bolex Service and S16 Upgrade Recommendations - United Kingdom


Robert Meakin

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Thanks Heikki,
I did notice that one but wondered if it might be cheaper to get one off eBay and have it serviced. I'm also curious about the actual benefit of Super 16mm compared to standard 16mm when a 4k scan can be cropped but it's probably better to ask that on a separate topic.

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A Bolex 16mm camera is vague. It could be a 1926 Bolex or a 1976 Bolex. What you probably mean is a Paillard-Bolex H-16. These were sold between 1935 and 1969. There are many different models with such variants as a 190-degrees opening shutter, a deeply penetrating steel claw, 170-degrees opening shutter, a flung-on double claw, variable shutters of different open angles, the Standard models, reflex viewing models, single-port and three-ports turret models, those that accept a wild electric motor and those that a crystal controlled motor can be attached to. You have the 50- and 100-ft. spools H, the magazine H. Early models run slower, down to 8 fps, the younger ones to 12 fps. The very first series doesn’t have the critical focuser. For about ten years the Standard could also be wound through the spring core which allowed to expose the entire load without interruption.

From January 1st, 1970 on you have Bolex products without the name Paillard. There was the Bolex 16 Pro, a different camera altogether.

If I can invite directors and cinematographers to be a little bit preciser, more specific about a matter, that would help. Prices are out of control today. Do not pay more than £ 800 for any Paillard-Bolex H, whatever model it is (sans optics). Even models converted to S-16 aren’t worth more. And stay away from PL-mount modifications. I have seen bad things and clients who lost money. Sad stories.

 

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Thanks Simon,

Yes, I meant an H16 REX-4 / REX-5. I am using this website as a reference: http://www.bolexcollector.com/cameras.html

24 FPS, with a shutter angle of 172.8 (for light flicker). Reflex viewfinder. Wind up spring and 100ft reels that can be loaded in the daylight. The ability to mount on a modern tripod is essential. Hopefully, 8mm lens (or 24mm full frame equivalent as per exposure size) and a zoom. Something simple to start but as you say, the prices seem steep enough to justify looking for a more professional camera but then that introduces complexity (loading magazines in the dark, etc) I'd like to avoid right now.

I suspect (but don't know) that Super 16mm may not be worth it. I've asked a lab to send me some sample 5K scans of standard and super 16mm to see if I can better understand. I will post a new thread if/when I get something.

I will heed the warning re PL-mount. I did see one Bolex with a Nikon mount but my lenses were bought for full frame and would be too long for my purposes on 16mm anyway.

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2 hours ago, Simon Wyss said:

Prices are out of control today. Do not pay more than £ 800 for any Paillard-Bolex H, whatever model it is (sans optics). Even models converted to S-16 aren’t worth more. And stay away from PL-mount modifications. I have seen bad things and clients who lost money. Sad stories.

 

It’s easy enough to say things are overpriced when you remember a time when they were cheap, but the reality is vintage objects like cameras fluctuate in value. I’d love to find a flat base 13x viewfinder Bolex for £800, I buy Bolexes all the time for parts, but you just can’t find such bargains anymore. The only cameras that cheap or less are non-reflex, or early reflex models, or ones that are damaged or not working. So saying “don’t pay more than £800 for any Bolex” is more of a recipe for frustration than helpful advice these days. There are definitely over-priced Bolexes sitting on eBay, of course. I tend to wait for auctions, where actual values become apparent. 
 

1 hour ago, Robert Meakin said:

I suspect (but don't know) that Super 16mm may not be worth it. I've asked a lab to send me some sample 5K scans of standard and super 16mm to see if I can better understand. I will post a new thread if/when I get something.

S16 is a modern standard, but whether the benefit is worth the added cost is a tricky question. It does add quite a bit of extra film real estate - around 20% more - and provides a closer aspect ratio to what many filmmakers want for a final delivery. But it’s also true that these days you can easily crop a standard 16 frame to a wider aspect ratio without making the image too grainy. However there is definitely more value in a S16 camera, both by virtue of demand and by the extra work involved in a conversion. A S16 Bolex is worth around £1000 more than a regular one, provided the conversion is professional.  A badly converted one should by rights be worth less, but people often don’t find out until they start using it.

There are precious few places left doing good S16 Bolex conversions, but I can recommend a couple of people around the world depending on the model. I have started to offer the service for filmmakers in Australia. If anyone is offering a conversion for less than about £900 they are not going to do it properly, because it does require some precise work and ideally an overhaul at the same time.

The only experienced Bolex technician I know of still working in the UK is Les Bosher, but unfortunately his work can be hit or miss these days. I suspect he passes some jobs onto less experienced people. His adapters are great though.

There are a number of good EU based technicians, including Simon.

Rex 3, 4 and 5 models are all good, with the same flat base and 10x viewfinder. They have a 133 degree variable shutter, not 172.8. The shutter angle is only approximate with Bolexes, as is the frame rate. If you can find a camera with a 10mm RX Switar that will do you well. To get the best from a reflex Bolex at maximum lens apertures, look for RX lenses (at least up to 50mm). It’s not so important with zooms.

 

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12 hours ago, Dom Jaeger said:

The only experienced Bolex technician I know of still working in the UK is Les Bosher, but unfortunately his work can be hit or miss these days. I suspect he passes some jobs onto less experienced people.

The wait times can be very long these days at Bosher. I sent an Eclair ACL to be converted to him, it took around 8 months. Got it back, it required further work, sent it back, called him at least once a month (a nice guy, pleasant calls and he was just about to do it every time I called) and finally got it back after another 7 months and while the camera now works, the quick fix used causes the camera to flicker in one corner. Ah well, Davinci Resolve has a plugin for flicker...

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