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krasnogorsk 3 lenses


Guest wael

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guys , hello ,

 

i am working with a k3 , m42 screw mount .

... anything to be aware of , if i am using the pentax lens ?

 

and any sharp lens is recomended ?

 

thks

 

w

Edited by wael
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i am working with a k3 , m42 screw mount .

... anything to be aware of , if i am using the pentax lens ?

 

and any sharp lens is recomended ?

You need to set the exposure switch to manual. I think all of those Pentax Super Takumar lenses have a switch so they should be ok.

 

I have a 28, 35 and a 50 for my K-3 and they look great. They also cover Super 16 if you have the wider gate. Its also nice not to have such a giant lens on there for handheld work.

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I have a 28, 35 and a 50 for my K-3 and they look great. They also cover Super 16 if you have the wider gate. Its also nice not to have such a giant lens on there for handheld work.

 

 

thanks , but a 50 mm for a pentax will stay a 50 mm for the k3 or will be a 100 mm ?

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I have a 28, 35 and a 50 for my K-3 and they look great. They also cover Super 16 if you have the wider gate. Its also nice not to have such a giant lens on there for handheld work.

thanks , but a 50 mm for a pentax will stay a 50 mm for the k3 or will be a 100 mm ?

This comes up quite a bit... a 50mm lens is a 50mm lens anywhere, but you only use the center "half" of the lens because 16mm film is half the size, so it APPEARS like 100mm (not exactly but that's basically it).

 

This 50mm lens is great for tripod closeups with GREAT depth of field. You just backup a little. Plus, 50mm lenses are generally faster than their smaller counterparts... I have an F1.4.

 

Pentax made a 24mm lens that would probably be very practical.

 

I have the Kiev 16mm lens that is very wide with only nominal distortion; great general purpose wide lens. The Peleng 8mm fisheye is cool too, but there's noticible distortion around the edges. Both of these are Russian lenses availble new for under $300.

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I bought a lens a while back (Zentar? Yea I know its a crappy brand, but I don't use this camera for much anyway). Well, I encountered a problem when I tried to mount the lens. There is a little mettle tab that sticks out on the lens. If it is screwed into a camera the pin is pushed inside and then allows you to control the aperture. If the pin is not pushed inside then the aperture is always open. My guess is this lens was meant for a different camera because the pin is not pushed in when I screw it into me camera. I tried to tape it but its so small and on the edge of the inside of the lens that I cant get a good piece of tape there.

 

Anyone have any advice?

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I bought a lens a while back (Zentar? Yea I know its a crappy brand, but I don't use this camera for much anyway). Well, I encountered a problem when I tried to mount the lens. There is a little mettle tab that sticks out on the lens. If it is screwed into a camera the pin is pushed inside and then allows you to control the aperture. If the pin is not pushed inside then the aperture is always open. My guess is this lens was meant for a different camera because the pin is not pushed in when I screw it into me camera. I tried to tape it but its so small and on the edge of the inside of the lens that I cant get a good piece of tape there.

 

Anyone have any advice?

 

 

Keep trying. I had the same problem, but I was able to get it to stay down using a small piece of camera tape (ripped so it's the exact width of the rim) It's lasted several months now.

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I bought a lens a while back (Zentar? Yea I know its a crappy brand, but I don't use this camera for much anyway). Well, I encountered a problem when I tried to mount the lens. There is a little mettle tab that sticks out on the lens. If it is screwed into a camera the pin is pushed inside and then allows you to control the aperture. If the pin is not pushed inside then the aperture is always open. My guess is this lens was meant for a different camera because the pin is not pushed in when I screw it into me camera. I tried to tape it but its so small and on the edge of the inside of the lens that I cant get a good piece of tape there.

 

Anyone have any advice?

I was able to push in the pin and push it to the side a little so it stays in. Use a really small screwdriver or ballpoint pen. The pin is how a 35mm still camera would control the aperture, so with it all the way in you can then use the manual dial.

 

I doubt tape would hold for very long, you've got to shove it in so it stays.

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  • 1 month later...

I've also just bought a Krasnogorsk-3 with an M42 screw mount,

 

and can't wait to do a test reel! I'll be using that Hungarian

Fomapan R B&W stock.

 

 

Not to ask the same question twice, but what would you consider a

 

good array of lenses to test? I'd like to do test macros, teles and wides.

 

What brands other than pentax made good lenses for the M42 mount?

 

I heard it's quite a standard mount.

 

Would appreciate any help here.

 

 

 

Also, can anyone recommend a good mattebox and filter set

 

for lenses that fit the K-3 with an M42 screw mount?

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Not to ask the same question twice, but what would you consider a

 

good array of lenses to test? I'd like to do test macros, teles and wides.

 

I recently did my own tests w/ a Super 16 K3 and I was mildly shocked that at F4 and using 7217/100t, the stock lens compared favorably w/ my SLR 35mm lenses for the most part. Anyway these are the lens I used and which I found worked well. PLease note that I just projected my camera test and watched it a couple of times while taking notes. Sorry I couldn't be more rigorous. Anyway...

 

An 8mm Peleng and a 17mm Zenitar (for reasons I'm not knowledgeable enough to understand, these two lenses worked better on the K3 than they did on my Bolex. Maybe becuase it was mounted directly to the camera w/o an adapter? I don't know.) a 28mm Pentax, a 50mm Pentax, a 85mm Jupiter-9, and 135mm Bushnell.

 

Of these lenses, the Jupiter-9 and Bushnell were the ones that seemed to jump out, but the rest worked fine as well w/ nice, crisp punchy images.

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Wow. Thanks. Time to head down to the local photo-mat and buy out the store.

Is it easy to find clip on filter boxes to fit these lenses?

 

If you do a search for "Matte box" on Ebay, you should be able to find an Ebay store based in India (!) that has a variety of matteboxes starting around $100. Also note that w/ the Peleng and Zenitar lenses, you'll need to rig the lenses w/ a 72mm filter thread since they aren't designed w/ one. I had to use craft store fun foam, gaffers tape and a cannibalized lens hood.

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Guest Ole Dost

I can recomment a M42 -lens, wich is the sharpest I know. It´s an SLR-lens froim Pentacon (Dresden/East Germany). It´s 1:1,8 50mm. I´ve been comparing it to the results with my Canon FD-Lenses and I found that it beat´s them all. Graet clour tones; extraordinary sharp! You should be able to get one if those lenses very chaep from Ebay. Perhapes you have to buy a SLR-Camera, the Practica MTL 3 or 5, because this lens was the standard lens of the Practica MTL - Cameras that have been in production until 1989. But even lens and SLR-Camera together are VERY cheap. On The K3 it´s a TELE-Lens, of course. About the same effect of a 100mm lens on your 35mm-SLR Camera.

Best regards,

Ole

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Still confused about this, no matter how much I read- everyone says that a 50mm SLR lens "appears" to be a 100mm lens when used on 16mm (or 180mm, either way). Is this in terms of the amount of image within the frame, the depth of field, or both?

 

Jake

 

A 50 Mm lens used on a 16mm Movie camera gives you a simalar perspective to what you might expect with a 100 mm lens used on a 35mm Camera. perhaps even a 135mm

 

looked another example a 4 inch (200 mm) lens is an extreme telephoto on a 16mm movie camera, but is a mid range telephoto on a 35mm SLR. The movie camera is only taking the central fraction of the image.

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I mounted a 400mm lens to my K3 and then mounted a 600mm mirror lens with a 2x teleconverter (which works out to 1200mm) to my Canon AE1 and compared the angle of view of each camera / lens combination. I ignored the horizontal framing and noted only the vertical height of the viewfinder image in each camera, lining up objects on a kitchen wall. I found that the angle of view from both cameras was about the same with these lens set ups. I bought the K3 mainly for filming wildlife so I'm happy in this regard.

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  • 6 years later...
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Still confused about this, no matter how much I read- everyone says that a 50mm SLR lens "appears" to be a 100mm lens when used on 16mm (or 180mm, either way). Is this in terms of the amount of image within the frame, the depth of field, or both?

 

Jake

Don't feel bad, it's confusing. Basically if you shoot alot of 35mm and are used to what a 50mm lens looks like on a 35mm camera, if you put that same lens on a 16mm camera you'll get only the center area of the lens so for framing it would look more like a 100mm lens but depth of field more like a 50mm. It's still a 50mm lens; you're just only getting the center "crop" of that lens.

 

Therefore it's more glass (and weight) than you really need so there are lenses designed just for 16mm & Super 16mm that look great but are less expensive because they are less glass.

 

That's why one of the points of discussion on the Black Magic Cinema camera is the depth of field is different than a full frame 35mm sensor in digital world. So if you really want a blurred out background you'd use twice the focal length of lens and back up to get the same look as 35mm.

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