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Bolex daylight reels and cans?


Sean McHenry

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Hey folks. Just got the Bolex H16 and it sounds like I am ready to run a test roll to see what shape it's in. I friend dropped seven 400' cans of relatively fresh Kodak neg stocks (different flavors) in my lap and I am looking for empty 100' Daylight reels and cans for them.

 

I'll gladly buy them from someone but I can't google a source for them. I could use a half dozen or so easily. Also, if anyone has suggestions on a easy way to load up the 100' reels in total darkness, I would appreciate it. Wear cotton gloves? How do you measure 100' in total darkness? Do I leave some "Leader" on the 100' rolls? - stuff like that.

 

Just getting started and I can't let this film just sit in the fridge you know. That's 28 loads of film in there just waiting to be sliced and diced.

 

Sean McHenry

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Hey folks. Just got the Bolex H16 and it sounds like I am ready to run a test roll to see what shape it's in. I friend dropped seven 400' cans of relatively fresh Kodak neg stocks (different flavors) in my lap and I am looking for empty 100' Daylight reels and cans for them.

 

I'll gladly buy them from someone but I can't google a source for them. I could use a half dozen or so easily. Also, if anyone has suggestions on a easy way to load up the 100' reels in total darkness, I would appreciate it. Wear cotton gloves? How do you measure 100' in total darkness? Do I leave some "Leader" on the 100' rolls? - stuff like that.

 

Just getting started and I can't let this film just sit in the fridge you know. That's 28 loads of film in there just waiting to be sliced and diced.

 

Sean McHenry

HI sean, their has been quite a bit of discussion in the past.

 

Labs offten have spools, as once processed the film is returned to the cutomer on cores. Often they will even re-roll it for you for free or for a small chanrge.

 

to re-roll it yourself, I think the consenus was that 42-43 turns of a geared rewind is close to the required 106-112 feet. which also answers your question that you will not get 4 100 ft rolls out of a 400 ft core. Also rember to run the film onto a reel or another core first as the film must be arranged the same way as it is shiped so the perfs are on the right side and the foot numbers come up in the right order. (you could run it on a spool and then re-wind on another spool to meed this need)

 

You will probaly want a split reel rather quickly.

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Labs offten have spools, as once processed the film is returned to the customer on cores. Often they will even re-roll it for you for free or for a small chanrge.

 

Thanks for the quick response Charles. I am anxious to shoot some tests as you can probably tell.

 

Can you suggest a lab or two to contact about re-rolling the film. I would be willing to pay a fee for that. The stock cost me nothing so I can afford to pay someone to do that for me so I can be sure it is done right.

 

Related question, I see places like Film Emporium have Super 16 stock in types I would like to test. Super 16 will work in a regular 16 camera correct? Just not the other way. I know I am not using all the emulsion but it should work fine I would think since the perfs are the same on both. The Bolex I have takes single perf.

 

Thanks again. I'll keep poking around the 16mm forums here. Getting educated can be fun. Any good ref sites or books on how to make the most use of the H16 I have?

 

Sean

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Hello Sean

I have purchased a bunch of datlight spools plastic and metal.

I have some at an auction on ebay now (10 x Arri Bolex Beaulieu 16mm 100' Take Up Plastic Reels

Item number: 290133081119) but I also have some aluminium left.

Aluminium runs for a different price but also depends how much you want.

I can rush them to you with EMS 2-5 days to delivery.

Let me know

David

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"Related question, I see places like Film Emporium have Super 16 stock in types I would like to test. Super 16 will work in a regular 16 camera correct? Just not the other way. I know I am not using all the emulsion but it should work fine I would think since the perfs are the same on both. The Bolex I have takes single perf."

 

You can't actually buy 'Super 16' film as such. 16mm film is 16mm film. It's the camera that determines whether you're shooting regular 16mm or Super 16. A Super 16 camera will have a wider than normal gate that exposes a wide frame on the film. Though the film that you run through such a camera is just ordinary 16mm film. However, it must be single perf film - that is the only prerequisite for shooting Super 16. If you're shooting regular 16mm, the film can be either single perf or double perf. If a 16mm camera can accept single perf film, it can also accept double perf film.

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Thanks for the quick response Charles. I am anxious to shoot some tests as you can probably tell.

 

Can you suggest a lab or two to contact about re-rolling the film. I would be willing to pay a fee for that. The stock cost me nothing so I can afford to pay someone to do that for me so I can be sure it is done right.

 

Sean

 

 

We would be happy to do this for you for a bench fee (probably $75) and we would be happy to supply you with 100' daylight spools and boxes for free plus the shipping cost.

 

-Rob-

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We would be happy to do this for you for a bench fee (probably $75) and we would be happy to supply you with 100' daylight spools and boxes for free plus the shipping cost.

 

-Rob-

 

 

Rob, could you e-mail me direct at Sean(at)DeepBlueEdit.com ?

 

Thanks,

 

Sean

Edited by Sean McHenry
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You can't actually buy 'Super 16' film as such. 16mm film is 16mm film. It's the camera that determines whether you're shooting regular 16mm or Super 16. A Super 16 camera will have a wider than normal gate that exposes a wide frame on the film. Though the film that you run through such a camera is just ordinary 16mm film. However, it must be single perf film - that is the only prerequisite for shooting Super 16. If you're shooting regular 16mm, the film can be either single perf or double perf. If a 16mm camera can accept single perf film, it can also accept double perf film.

 

 

I thought the emulsion was different but it makes sense that it was easier all along to just coat the entire base with emulsion than to only coat the normally used section of it. Maybe I am thinking of magnetic sound film like in Super8 where you can't expose over the stripe area.

 

Anyway, I think this is good news then as I found someone with what is being sold as Super16 stock for quite a reasonable price. I think I'll pick up a few rolls for the H16 then, till I get the rest re-spooled.

 

Thanks everyone. Lot's of learning to do on 16mm.

 

Sean

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I have some at an auction on ebay now (10 x Arri Bolex Beaulieu 16mm 100' Take Up Plastic Reels

Item number: 290133081119) but I also have some aluminium left.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...em=290133081119

Actually, that is a Microfilm spool. It WILL work in a Movie Camera, I have done so in a Pinch. but the movie spools are made of Aluminum, and are probaly just a touch stiffer, and so slightly less likly to allow some edge fog.

 

The curent production 16mm metal Movie spools no longer have a makers name on the side. the Kodak Microfilm spools sometimes just have a number molded in.

 

(I have shot miles of microfilm in a past life)

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Thanks Charles. Robert mentioned maybe tossing in the cans and reels if I have him re-spool the film at his shop, if I understood him right. That might be the way to go.

 

In the meantime, I found someone with some Kodak stock on 100' daylights he's letting go of for $9.95 each plus S&H. I picked up 5 the other day and will probably use that to test the camera out, until I can figure out how to cut this other stock down.

 

Robert, let me know if I have that right and we'll talk turkey.

 

Thanks,

 

Sean

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I thought the emulsion was different but it makes sense that it was easier all along to just coat the entire base with emulsion than to only coat the normally used section of it. Maybe I am thinking of magnetic sound film like in Super8 where you can't expose over the stripe area.

 

 

Film is actually coated in rolls much wider than the intended gauge, then slit to width and finally perforated.

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