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Minolta VS Sekonic


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Hi all

 

I'm thinking of getting a light meter and it seems that most people just use Minolta or Sekonic.

I know they have their own pros and cons, so maybe people here can give me some suggestions whether Minolta or Sekonic is more suitable to a new comer.

 

Thank you so much.

 

Regards

Larry

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi,

 

I've checked a bit around the net and I came to the conclusion that the Sekonic L608 Cine super zoom master would be a good buy so I bought a new one off eBay. I just recently received it, but so far I've been very happy with it and it coverst all my needs. It was also half the price that I would have to pay in Australia.

 

You can check it out on www.sekonic.com

 

I've talked to more experienced DOP's that also rates it highly.

 

Cheers,

 

Morten

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You can have any professional lightmeter checked out and recalibrated by the manufacturer, or a company specializing in this service:

 

http://www.minoltausa.com/eprise/main/Mino...rea/ServiceArea

 

http://www.sekonic.com/svcgeneral.html

 

http://www.spectracine.com/repair.htm

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I'd vote for Minolta - I use Spotmeter F's and Flashmeter V's for incident readings.

 

I've never owned a Sekonic, but have heard many people be critical of the battery life and build quality.

 

I also buy meters on Ebay. I recently bought a mint condition Flashmeter V for £102, that someone had won in a competition. He'd used it maybe 5 times.

 

Strange how Spectra have fallen from grace. I still have a an old Spectra in my box (must be 30 years old) and its still very accurate.

 

Anybody still use Spectra?

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Anybody still use Spectra?

I use a digital Spectra that I bought more than a decade ago and I love it. A great meter. I too still have an old classic Spectra Pro that I keep in my case on the emergency that all my meter batteries die at once and I need someting to take a reading. Still love those little hand-drilled slide inserts. It's still a very accurate meter. I copied very DP photo I saw in A.C. and taped one side of the ball cover down so that I could flick it to one side to take a meter reading and then flip it back again for protection. Did you?

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For incident, I looked at the Sekonic L-358 and Minolta VF last summer.

The Minolta was a few $ less, took AA's (and perhaps is less battery hog).

 

In every othyer respect, ergonomics, display etc I liked the Sekonic better.

 

I've had good luck with Sekonics, I have the L-778 spot meter & it's great.

So I'm not interested in the combo meters right now.

 

I put off buying the 358 as I found an older 318 quite cheap, takes a single AA, and if I dropped it in the Mekong river not the end of the world. I may buy the 358 eventually.

 

In answer to battery use questions re recent Sekonic meters, a Sekonic sales rep said to me "well they're not just meters, they're computers"

 

Which is true I suppose. But then, in thinking about how few readings I actually take in daylight situations, probably no big deal.

 

Spectra IV-F is another choice.

 

-Sam

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my sekonic studio deluxe II L398M doesn't need batteries. It's an analog needle incident meter and I love it!

you can lock the needle, ideal for checking bluekys and other backgrounds.

this model is the most basic 'cine' model sekonic makes.

I bought mine new but with an importers discount. it cost me 175? or about 200$

my only problem is tha tI now have to borrow a spotmeter and meanwhile save up for my own.

 

So I'd guess you'd want something like a 558 cine dualmaster. I've used it and it didn't seem very rigid, but then again you're always careful with a lightmeter, aren't ya? the design and use of a sekonic are very intuitive, but it's true that the batteries run out quickly.

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Thank you all for the valuable opinion and share of experience.

 

Seems that Minolta and Sekonic both have their die-hard fans.

Maybe I should try it out myself?

 

Hope I can learn more by using a light meter.

 

Best

Larry

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taped one side of the ball cover down so that I could flick it to one side to take a meter reading and then flip it back again for protection.  Did you?

LOL.... I'd forgotten that!!

 

Guilty - seemed kind of cool at the time B)

 

Sam - sadly no, I'm not careful with meters - I spent years cursing D.P.s who only had one thing to look after and they could never find it - their meter. :angry:

 

Now its me that has 30 people running around trying to find mine ......... :rolleyes:

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Hope I can learn more by using a light meter.

That's the important thing.

 

The ultimate light meter will be the film itself, that's what it does, it yields photochemical response to light. The purpose of a meter is simply to predict what that response will be.

 

-Sam (who in fact has never lost a meter yet, knock on wood !)

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Dear Larry,

 

I found this one guy on ebay who's located in Hong Kong. He is rated as a "Power seller" so I just crossed my fingers and hoped he'd send me the light meter, and he did and as the page said it was brand new. I figured it was worth a shot since it was half the price. He even sent me the meter before I had paid him all the money.

 

I don't know which one's better out of Sekonic and Minolta. I just got the impression that sekonic was slightly better when I read reviews and product info, but I'm thinking it's just the same as with the whole Nikon VS Canon thing. It's a matter of preferance.

 

Regards,

 

Morten

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I use a Sekonic 508C and love it. Works on 1 AA battery.

Also use a Minolta Colormeter II sometimes.

Both companies make very good equipment. I used Minolta light meters as a photographer and cinematographer and was quite happy with the results.

I suggest picking a meter you can afford and not getting too hung up about it.

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I just bought a Sekonic Dualmaster L-558 Cine. It is the new combo incident and reflective meter. I replaced my Minolta Spot and Incident meters. It took me a weekend to figure out how to program it. I?m still getting used to it but I think it?s a keeper.

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I just bought a Sekonic Dualmaster L-558 Cine.  It is the new combo incident and reflective meter.  I replaced my Minolta Spot and Incident meters.  It took me a weekend to figure out how to program it.  I?m still getting used to it but I think it?s a keeper.

Bob, compare the incident reading of your Minolta and your Sekonic in low level tungsten light (f2.8 at 500 ASA, 24fps). If it's like my 508C, your Sekonic will read about a half stop low compared to the Minolta (the Sekonic will say f2.0.5 while the Minolta will say f2.8). Switch the light to daylight balanced and the meters will agree; and at higher light levels they'll agree. This is a "known issue" with the Sekonic 508, which may or may not have been fixed with subsequent models.

 

Also, check that the spot and incident readings agree -- usually they don't and need to be adjusted. Fortunately you can adjust them independently, and I was able to get mine to agree dead on.

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I think the built-in spot meter in the Sekonic makes it bulky to hold and everyone I know who has one always has a hard time finding spare batteries on set when it dies. I also don't like if it happens to fall, get banged, or break you're out 2 meters. Having separate meters is an insurance policy. However, their performance and features are very good.

 

I've been using a Minolta IVF and SpotmeterF since '92 and love them. Had to fix a loose connection in the head of the incident a few years back because it was giving me inconsistent readings dpending on which way the head was twist.

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Unlike, some others my L-508c is very accurate even at low light levels and the battery lasts a fair amount of time. I know that some of these meters do have real issues though, I guess some people have gotten lemons. Over time the lack of a spot readout in the eyepiece has proven to be a huge issue causing me to buy a Spotmeter-F. Of course that problem was solved in newer versions of the meter. Now that I have the Minolta I'm looking to get a Spectra incident meter.

 

I too still have a 398 II and it gets used every now and again. Probably the best of the analog meters.

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  • 2 years later...

Good ol' "Search" function, took me to this old thread, ha ha

 

I wasn't aware that Minolta had discontinued all their meters (after being taken over by Sony)

 

Does anyone still think it would be a good idea to buy a Minolta light meter? My only concern would be getting it recalibrated, should something go wrong.

 

thanks!

 

Jon

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