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Anyone still developing Kodak Tri-X and Kodachrome 40?


Alexander Boyd

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Hi, if the film is very old, and has not been stored well, processing both as B&W Negative is the better option (due to excessive age fogging lowering image contrast to a very flat gray tone if processed as B&W Reversal). Other than that, Both can be processed as B&W Reversal or even in Sepia (brown tone) Reversal, which I still offer here at Plattsburgh Photographic Services. But, there are most likely labs closer to your location as I'm in upstate New York, USA.

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Hi, if the film is very old, and has not been stored well, processing both as B&W Negative is the better option (due to excessive age fogging lowering image contrast to a very flat gray tone if processed as B&W Reversal). Other than that, Both can be processed as B&W Reversal or even in Sepia (brown tone) Reversal, which I still offer here at Plattsburgh Photographic Services. But, there are most likely labs closer to your location as I'm in upstate New York, USA.

Martin, you know what emulsions are suitable for Sepia tone in reversal process, in addition to two of Alexander? In Super 8, but also in Double 8 and 16mm.

I've never tried it and I'd like, maybe trying to look for one old K40, expired from not too long.

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ORWO, AGFA Scala, TRI-X, Plus-X, Fomapan R-100, any KODACHROME film that has been cold stored frozen since new or isn't older than 10 or 12 years(after that, I would test it, since any reversal film stored at room temp will lose contrast and gain age fogging affecting reversal density). Kodachrome is a bit unique since it has filter layers that will often also cause some additional yellow to orange tinting of the Sepia image tone. If and when I can figure out how to place photos in these text windows, I would include image samples.

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ORWO, AGFA Scala, TRI-X, Plus-X, Fomapan R-100, any KODACHROME film that has been cold stored frozen since new or isn't older than 10 or 12 years(after that, I would test it, since any reversal film stored at room temp will lose contrast and gain age fogging affecting reversal density). Kodachrome is a bit unique since it has filter layers that will often also cause some additional yellow to orange tinting of the Sepia image tone. If and when I can figure out how to place photos in these text windows, I would include image samples.

 

Thank you, Martin, I'd like to try a Kodachrome (well preserved and not too old, some of them, on ebay, always find), for of the characteristics that you mention.

Of film who say the Fomapan R100 has already a little tendency to yellowish, but, of course, we are talking about a tendency type of black and white, not a real sepia. I'd like to have a real sepia tone.
Does nothing if it carries a bit 'of signs of the expiration time, if it is less contrasted; are experiments are , i don't seek maximum yeld.
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  • 3 weeks later...

FOMA R-100 B&W Reversal film should NOT look yellowish! If so, then it was poorly bleached and not cleared out, thus the resulting yellow stain in the film. FOMA should look rich in contrast, deep blacks, clear highlight areas. It's an older formula silver rich film, which yields great results when correctly processed. The only issue with it, is that the film base is thicker than other B&W films. True Sepia processing is really nice looking. Films made during the silent film era (which were never truly silent since they were accompanied by music and sound effects) often used several tinting processes to convey a feeling, change of scene or time, or other effect desired by the filmmaker. Thus we see red, yellow, green, blue and sepia used in many of those old films.

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Yes, very beautiful the toning in sepia, orange, etc, in old movies. Typical was blue tone when the film simulate the night.

Martin, but I can make develop IN POSITIVE, not in negative, for sepia tone with expired Kodachrome 25 or 40?

Edited by Luigi Castellitto
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