Erik Vilhelm

Yep, it gets quieter! In worst case, maybe the speed was lower than the set fps during all the shooting.

If the spring mechanism is weak it probably also slows down (lower fps) during the last few secs of the shot, which probably is unwanted...

On www.super8wiki.com you can check a list regarding E64T compatibility (but not Tri-X).

Nice work guys! Especially I liked the backlight in some of the scenes at the train station.

Does anyone know if battery belts for Arri's (just in general) can be connected to the grid, and then be used as power supply for the camera? That is, simultaneously charging the battery and feeding the camera with the correct voltage/current?

Is there any special light or "trick" needed to see this edge printing? I didn't see any; not on my processed rolls and not on samples of unexposed rolls.

How far back in time was this process applied for negative film? Is the ECN-2 for example valid for Fuji F-64D 8621 from 1998 (which I have in the freezer)? It doesn't say on the can.

Thanks, this really helps!

I have been offered to buy some old film stock (16mm, 100ft); both Kodak and Fuji. I would like to determine the manufacturing year on the film rolls. For Kodak films I've found these Manufacturing Year Codes: http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/support/...15.14&lc=en I guess these numbers are labeled on the film, and not on the can? Are there any corresponding numbers on Fuji films? Are they located on the can or on the film itself? Thanks

The website is: http://www.filmxchange.de

Does anyone know where to buy battery cells for Arri BL? Thanks in advance

It's better to slightly overexpose negative film. I'm not sure if the sensitivity of the film is enough for filming outdoors at night, search for video clips (youtube?) to see if someone else succeeded with this. And remember that your camera might deactivate the daylight filter with this cartridge, since it's not correctly notched. It will look jerkier (or what the correct word is) than 24 fps at the same shutter angle. ;)

Yep, you can find use for speeds below the standard. You just have to be aware of the pros and cons. Slow speed can be really useful if you film static objects, like a city skyline from a tripod.

At 18 fps, motions might look quite "jerky". And since 24 fps is standard motion picture speed, you should consider using it, unless you really need to save film.

Follow up: I smoothed it down (just a little) and the footage came out just fine.

Ok, so maybe it's a good idea to smoothen it flat? Better be careful where the dust goes though!

In that case I'll let it be. :)

I found this cement-like stuff (see picture below) in the upper part of the film gate of my Bolex H16. It doesn't seem to belong there - is it dirt? It's very hard, and I'm afraid trying to remove it might make it sharper and more likely of scratching the film. As it is now it's not touching the film, but very close to... The picture is maybe not too clear...

I think the transfers were made at: http://www.uppsalabildteknik.com/english.php

I'm thinking of buying a Beaulieu 3008-S. Supposing the condition is OK, how much is reasonable to pay for it?

Since 40/160 means 40T/25D or 160T/100D, some have suggested that 100D might be correctly read, but I wouldn't bet on this. Maybe someone really has tried...?

Sorry, don't know about any buyback shops, but if I find out I'll tell you. We'll keep in contact!

Hi, Sounds interesting. I live close to Stockholm (60km) and have been thinking this idea myself. Maybe we can discuss more through PM.

Ok, thanks!

Does anyone know if the Minolta XL 84 Sound misreads the 64T notch like Minolta XL-401 and XL-601? Or if it exposes the E64T film correctly? Another question: In the instruction manual of the camera, it is stated that it can handle daylight ASA 25 or 100, and tungsten 40 or 160. Does this mean my camera can auto expose for example Kodak ectachrome 100d (which is 100 daylight and 25 tungsten)? The ASA number fits the daylight speeds supported, but not the tungsten..?