Richardson Leao

Hi all, I am looking for a reflex 16mm with 30m loads and I was curious if there is anything apart from K3 scoopic bolexes beaulieus cheers richard

it seems like the light was measured in the ground so the sky got burnt out. A handheld lightmeter will probably solve your problem. But if you wanna see how well exposed is your film... get a projector and have a look.

Will, Sorry my ignorance, but when u dv-convert anamorphic r16 the telecine gate is cropping the film frame above and bellow right? I am now banging my head on the table thinking why I haven't done it in my last telecine...

Hey Michael, love the job you're doing to mother earth (resurrecting the leaded car)... btw, there are other reasons to do film at home more than commerce. I made some film from silver extracted from some litters of old fixer I had (I have an old post about it) and yes, it's ugly and it's ASA 5 or 10 and it's uneven but, I made it... and from waste... Anyway, i actually have a question for you, was it filmotec that was making that 'gk' cartridge? I thought that they'd do only the film that went inside it. Thanks!

I also would get something without sound as it just adds useless weight. About the reading of the cartridge speed, there's always the possibility of measuring light with an external meter, that would actually add to the film pedagogy

i guess it depends a lot on what kind of damage you're keen to inflict in your camera. If you wanna keep the viewfinder functional to the eye, u will need a cam with lens and macro. But, if you are willing to remove the lenses from the original viewfinder, you can try to have the image projected straight to the ccd, then u could use something like a board camera: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Sony-1-4-CCD-COLOR-C...1QQcmdZViewItem

I'm not 100% sure about the film transport, but it seems that it is not supposed to hurt the film (at handcranck speeds at least) and the LED illumination is not supposed to burn the film... But as I said, I am not sure...

I saw this in the smallformat and went to check on the webpage. Super cool gadget: http://film.club.ne.jp/english/englishgakken.html

i've developed orwo with d19 and d76 developer with awesome results, I also sent the film to a lab that only did double-x continuously and the orwo behaved like the kodak during the development. Another thing that's good to know about orwo films: They can also be developed as reversal.

i think the base is normal acetate. I am waiting for filmotec (orwo) to reply to see if the sell clear acetate leader precoated with transparent gelatine as photo emulsion does not stick properly to normal uncoated film leader.

I agree with Paul, there's already so little material available out there and the smallformat is a great source of knowledge. It's amazing though how people waste time in complaining to such trivial things... With the currently minute super8 market, a magazine that praises the format is not fully commercial, but there's a lot of idealism behind it.

Dear all, I found this in the apug.org forum. This is a machine build by a dude in australia to coat photo film. I have been experimenting with home-made film and my coating process is rather primitive but this guy took it to another level: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dark_orange/s...57603226919391/

Hi All, sorry for my ignorance but I need a video camera to do a film scanning device and I am a bit confused with the terminology. What is the advantage of a camera with more TV lines? And would the TVL be equal to the pixel resolution of the ccd, let's say, PAL, 720x5andsomething, wouldn't the no. of vertical lines be equal to=5andsomething? But I've seen cams that have 470TVL and full frame pal resolution. What does it mean? Also, just to not bother u twice, can someone indicate for me a nice PAL video capture comp card (for uncompressed video or DV25 compression - NO MPEG). Thanks heaps!

Hi all, I am a bit confused with all the video terminology. I am looking to buy a camera head for my home-made telecine based on a kem editing table. I was looking into ccd cameras and I am a bit confused with TV lines vs. pixels. What does it mean if you have a camera with 540 TV lines but 720x576 resolution? Also, if one compare to a DV camera (PAL), what would be the no. of TV lines of a PAL dv cam? Many thanks

fomapan is No.1! then ORWO NP4 and Plus X are drawn in 2nd place.

Thanks Heaps guys!

a c41 kit from novadarkroom costs 11 pounds... washing the remjet from a meter or so of film is a deadeasy job... and, btw, not all cameras have 180o shutters (then there are variable angle shutters)... But I use 1/60 in a slr as there's no 1/48 setting. It's less than 1 stop difference (3/5th of a stop).

Hi All, I think it will be hard to get any replies on this but... If someone has a manual or schematics of a kem 16mm editing table (flatbed) i'd like to find out the terminal that sends the frame pulses to the frame counter. I want to connect the table to a computer to sync the pic to digital sound. Gracias

Hi All, I think it will be hard to get any replies on this but... If someone has a manual or schematics of a kem 16mm editing table (flatbed) i'd like to find out the terminal that sends the frame pulses to the frame counter. I want to connect the table to a computer to sync the pic to digital sound. Gracias

I don't believe there's a lack of reversal chem. I use kodak D19 for both developers and ilford hipan for fixer. K dichromate (for the bleach) can be EASILY purchased from artcraft (if you're in the US) as well the sodium sulfite (clearing bath) Alternatively, you can buy kits from foma (wittner kino for example sells it) or from Olexandr. Color reversal u can find in BH or Karl Film or do a search for tetenal e6. i'd say that to make 2l of ea working solution you will spend 20 usd or so and you'd be able to develop around 200m of film (if you do it in a roll) by systematically replenishing the solutions (AND i suggest filtering the bleach after each development)

btw, my table is not in the basement... I dedicated a room in my house specially for it... Sometimes I even think that the only reason why I bought a house was to fit the table ;)

You won't regret to do it using a viewer and a splicer... This is a nice book: CUT ? ALL ABOUT SPLICERS u can get it for free if you subscribe smallformat: http://smallformat.schiele-schoen.de I remember seeing a video on how to use a cement splicer that helped me heaps. cAN'T FIND RIGHT NOW BUT YOU'LL FIND A LOT OF INFO HERE: http://www.folkstreams.net/vafp/ I got so hooked onto cutting by hand that I ended up buyng a KEM (like a stenbeck) table: http://bp1.blogger.com/_YV-nMLm2V4E/R3eRU5...0-h/Kem16mm.jpg Go for it man! No fear!

i love this lens... and if i can hack the post... If Olexandr will do the job you'll not be disappointed.

Hej mate, unrelated to the scoopic but I've looked at your blog. Audacious project... Just one aspect, telecine... If you want to do the transfer in a half decent way, you'll need a very strong light source to compensate for the orange backing of the negative. Just keep that in mind. I am converting my stenback table to a neg stenback table. I can let you know about my results once I have any.

ANDEC http://www.smalfilm.no/en/priser.html also tri-x can be developed as negative and it's bullshit that negatives give a 'better' result. they are basically the same kind of film.