Marc Marti

Yeah, I've got this very same machine and it's a blast! But the same operation is very easy to do by hand. Just slower. Till last year, there were a very active super-8 scene in Spain, but the economical situation gave us a serious decline, specially considering that color reversal film is now freakingly expensive :unsure:

The technique is very simple: Starting in the dark, you make a little hole at the beginning of the film (any paper perforator is ok) and engange it on the left side reel. Some people do it just with adhesive tape, but I found the perforator system cleaner... Then, start rolling the reel till you nearly fill that side of the cartridge. Be careful no to overfill it. The film has to have a certain freedom of movement. After that, you can take the final leader out of the cartridge, close it, and (if you want) turn the lights on. Now you make another hole at this end of the film. Close the lights again, open the cartridge and engage it at the right reel. Be sure that the film pass outside the cartridge with the emulsion out and the perforations down.You're done! This is a picture of the way the films goes inside the cartridge: Practice first with a trashy piece of film with the lights on. Don't worry if it looks complicated at first sight. It's a very easy process as soon as you get it. If you're recharging from super-8 cartridges, it's best to film first the entire film with the super-8 camera (with the lens cap on, of course) and start recharging the single-8 from the end of it (the part with the "exposed" written on it).

I've passed the same unexposed films (100ASA) through 3 airport scans, and nothing happened, but I always keep them in the hand baggage. I used to ask for a hand inspection, but the staff always told me the same: 100ASA film will not get any damage... The worst thing that happened to me was at the Dublin airport: The staff was very rude, and after scanning my bagagge, they told me to get out the camera and film, put them on a tray, and scanned it again. Impossible to explain that it could be harmful for the film... No listening at all. <_<

Pretty impressive!!!

An AX100 with the underwater housing for only £1!!! What a bargain!! For that little cameras, the best is to have cartridges with the correct speed. As most of them are 25 or 200 ASA, you have to fill or drill the linear hole in the back of the cartridge, but that's a complicated thing to do. There's a thread in the Spanish forum about it: http://www.super8.es/viewtopic.php?t=7620 Good luck!

The obturator in position 2 should no give any strobe effect at all if shooting at 18fps, and pictures are pin-sharp. But 24fps is another story... Just two more hints: - When refilling, remember to leave the perforations down, and the emulsion out, facing the gate of the camera. That's the correct position. And if you're doing it from super-8 cartridges, you have to insert it in a super-8 camera first and shoot it till completion (do it with the lens cap on, of course). Then you can start refilling the single-8 cartridge from the very end of the film. - Another solution for the ASA thing: drill or fill the ASA indicator in the back of the cartridge to fit your needs. A bit more risky, but it can be done... In any case, my cartridges are 25, 50 and 200 ASA, so all my needs are covered well without further modification. Good luck and go for that ZC1000! It's waiting for you!

Hi Reinhard! These cameras have a solution for the film speed. An exposure compensation switch with 3 positions: 0, 2, 4. They are incremental in 1 stop, so if you put E100D in a R200 cartridge, you have to put the switch in position 2, and the camera will read it as 100 ASA. You can play with the variable obturation too. If you put E100D in a 50 ASA cartridge, just put the obturation switch in position 2 and... Voilà! 100ASA again. There's a third element to play with: the exposure meter in the viewfinder. It allows to do 1 stop over or under, so with all these variables you can play without trouble. For example, in a more complicated situation, for charging E100D in a R25 cartridge, you need 2 stops less of exposure. You can put the obturation swith in 2, and at the same time close the reading of the camera 1 stop more. Regarding the opening of the cartridge, it shouldn't be a problem. Just be careful and start separating both sides til they crack without damaging any external part. Once you have finished the charge, close it and put a bit of adhesive tape in the exterior sides to ensure it and that's all. For the next time, you just have to separate the tape and repeat the operation. Remember to not fill it in excess: around 11 meters of film is OK. About processing... well, I do it at home. But if you send the cartridges to any lab they will process them without a problem. Just make sure to indicate that they send you back the empty cartridges... ;-) Hope this helps!

Recharging a Single-8 cartridge is ridiculously easy. I'll do it constantly, with Kodak emulsions, Fuji, Foma, Orwo, and now with Agfa Scala. Even sometimes I do it extracting the films from super-8 cartridges. Shooting in Single-8 is that good.

Ektachrome 100D can be pushed to 200 or 400 ASA with great results. Give it a try...

Following the advice of some friends at the spanish super8 forum, I've processed E100D at 28ºC and the results were very impressive. No more ultra-saturation and excessive contrast. Now it looks absolutely great: clean whites, good saturation and tonal scale,... What a difference with the old 100D I've shot! At last, I'm very happy with this stock B)

Thanks for the responses! Wow! 1-stop out is a bit too much of light loss... Shooting with Velvia in this camera is not a very good idea.

I'm going to test this camera, the Kiev Alpha, but I don't know how to compensate the exposure with the fotometer, as the prism will absorb part of the light. Any tips?

Hello, I'm going to purchase a battery for the CAMEFLEX CM3 (a model converted to 2-perf), but the electric connector of the camera is totally unknown for me. If someone can recognize it on the picture, please let me know... Sorry for the bad picture, but it's what I have on hand right now... image uploader

Thanks for the responses! The fact is that I had a Nizo 4080 with the filter blocked in and I removed it. The results after the operation were great!

I'm planning to remove the internal filters from the Zeiss Moviflex GS8. Do I need to recollimate the lens too?

E100D has a lot more contrast than Kodachrome... The blown-out highlights are a constant with this stock.

This is great news!! Sound film available again even in black and white! Ángel Caro is a genius... B)

For me, the best price-quality option is the BRAUN VISACUSTIC 2000. It has the BEST sharpness (using the same system as the Beaulieu), excellent stereo sound, good light output, the Schneider 1.1 lens plus a beautiful design. Can't get much more than this. Well, an HTI or Xenon projector should be better, but in the range of 150W projectors, it's invincible.

If your film is tranferred as a series of still picteres (tiff, jpeg,targa...) you can set your timeline at the speed you prefer. But for making compatible files with DVD or Blu-ray you have to use the standard speeds (24, 25, 29,97) so unavoidably you have to duplicate frames in the end...

That's my experience too. The first time I shot E64T with a 85B filter, I hated the awful, multicolored grain but LOVED the colors. Then I started to read all those fascinated 100D reviews and I imagined this stock with the colors of E64T but without the grain. What a deception when I shot my first reels! A grainy film (although neutral and more contained), with average resolution and unnatural ultra-warm colours. I applaud Kodak too for keeping the format alive, but I still need a colour reversal stock that makes me say "Wow!" when I get the films back from the lab...

Well, in the language of a super8 camera, 100T means "100 ASA with no filter". That's just the way you have to expose it :-)

Of course, despite the fact that the USA blocking to Cuba is the most decisive factor related to the actual state of the island.... Anyway, I don't agree with Castro in many aspects (one of them is the death penalty) and I prefer him to pass away. But when Bush or Sharon die, yes... that will be THE BIG PARTY all around the world...

Yes. With film (K40 and Plus-X) and without it. Now is working again... this is crazy... perhaps it's just a defective connection, as batteries are new. Tomorrow, if it still works, I'll continue shooting in the afternoon. I have great expectations from that Optivaron lens, but I believe it's very difficult to surpass the sharpness obtained with my Zeiss GS8. What do you think? And the last question: As the camera has that special gate, I would like to know if the use of the metal pressure plate will damage the camera. Thanks a lot!

And... voilà! The camera started to work again, but after filming a little bit more, it failed again (this time without any sign of open shutter). I'm starting to think that the camera is defective... I'll write to the seller tomorrow and I'll let you know...

Thanks K25rip, but no, the dial is on the round dot... I've never attempted to do a long exposure. Before inserting the release cable, I've rotated the second release button a few times. I don't know if this information is relevant...