JD Hartman

Another nice piece of hardware that is a timesaver: http://www.unistrut.com/literature/index.p...ikWash&pg=1

Great "thinking outside the box" idea. Something that is sadly lacking from some film school grads and even those in the biz.

My point is that with slightly more effort than that required by a trip to HomeDee, you can obtain the correct mesh for your wire scrims, cookies, etc. Not an endorsement of this supplier, merely for educational info. http://www.mcmaster.com/#mesh-screens/=4ky492 There will be cheaper sources, but when you absolutely have to have some type of mechanical or electrical item, tool or similar, in a hurry, they're hard to beat.

And.....Li Fi, is slang for??

Seems obvious, but did you apply ND to all the windows as well as difusing the natural light with a silk?

The shoot was "Knucklehead". Considering the number of copper transformer grounds I saw missing in the area, local scrap theives could have made off with about 500' of 5 wire feeder with no questions asked. Maybe the drunk knew how to pop the safety on the Condor hydraulics to lower the arm with the obvious result.

It's the mesh, the density of the scrim material that makes the difference. If you compare single and double scrims, in the double you'll see the wire are placed closer together. Window screening might not compare directly to the mesh used in either.

Any fabric store.

So already owning th clamps which have baby pins attached, you need something to couple two 5/8", baby pin together. Something like: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/2570..._to_Female.html or: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5601...tor_Socket.html If that's what you need, I can fabricate them for you for less than what Bogen wants. Send me a PM and We can discuss the detaisl.

That should be fine. The C-clamp could even be installed vertically with no problem. The beams you refer to, are actually floor truss and the minor amount of twisting force the fixture will be applying should not be an issue. Don't over engineer your solution. As long as you safety the fixture, as all hanging fixtures should be, it's safe.

Just back from a trip to NOLA and observed some filming in the city. One thing that surprised me was the amount of equipment that was left un-attended. I don't mean the odd apple box, or stand sitting on the sidewalk during the shoot, but hundreds of feet of feeder cable, 900A distos, lunchboxes, etc., left out overnight after shooting had wrapped for the day. None of this was energized, didn't terminate at the generator and in some cases the cable was coiled and stacked, sitting there, no PA's, no trucks, no Police presence. I've never seen this in New York City.

Just my experience from hands-on with the EU series Hondas, they aren't quiet. They are better than a construction type genny, but not whisper quiet. There are no small engines that I'm aware of with cast iron blocks or liners, except the older engines like the Onan CK series My list: 1) Onan: NH,NHC, NHE series 2) Kohler 3) Army surplus 4) Honda The Yahamas, Kawis, Subarus, Coleman, Powermate (powermaybe) or anything sold at Home Dee, Lowes, etc. is just junk. If you can't get a good long term rental deal for a small generator, I'd consider buying one for the production.

You're looking for a clamp, like a pelican, that has a baby reciever instead of a pin? I don't see how it would be useful for holding a bounceboard, flag, net or something similar. There would be little or no flexibility in orienting the object held in the clamp jaws.

....and "tampon".

The problem with using steel wool is the broken strands that can be left behind, these will cause nasty looking rust stains. We don't use any steel wool in the shop, only woven synthetic pads or copper wool. If you have to clean something and your worried about the plating, try copper wool pads. I used to be able to get these in the dollar store, but now they are passing off plated steel pads as copper. Not the same. A green kitchen Scotch Brite pad is not the same as 3m's Industrial line of hand pads. Hopfully this link works: http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserv...s6661XTCOrrrrQ- Otherwise start here: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_U...-Center/Search/ and download the Hand Finishing Systems document

Be certain and budget for tiny winshield wipers and squirters, to keep the bugs and road dirt off the lenses.

The fact is the green kitchen Scotchbrite pads are actually more abrasive than some grades of steel wool. They can easily abrade steel and plated finishes. If you're going to use a 3M Scotchbrite pad, they make an entire range of them, in various grades for cleaning and polishing. See their website for more information.

You can't go wrong with some double and triple riser, beefy baby stands. Great for outdoors, a little clumsy in a small interior. Norms, Matthews, American grip, etc. Great for flags as well, but I would not try to fly a 6x6 butterfly from one.

All flouro tubes produce less output as they age. That's a given. Since fixtures don't have an hour meter on them to measure run time, do you: measure your fixtures output with a lightmeter and replace (tubes) when it drop below a percentage of full output; replace on a periodic basis; replace when the fail to strike? Just bought some used Divas and purchased some new spare tubes. I wondering if I shouldn't just re-lamp them, as I have no idea how much use they've gotten.

Look at B&M: http://bmlighting.com/site/ they have a diferent take on Spacelight and 9 lights.

A Japanese company :Teeda also makes Diva type lights. The shell is extruded aluminum, the doors are hard plastic, mirrored on the inside. Fixture mounts with an adjustable 2 axis clamp, which rides in a metal track on the long axis of the fixture. Takes the standard folded U tubes, dimmable. Can't give a website as I bought mine used.

Thank you to both David and Matt.

Anyone run into or been told about this issue? A DP I spoke with today told me that he prefers to use all daylight balanced lights for interiors, when shooting on the Red. Something about the blue sensitivity of the CCD chip being very low.

You outlet tester also didn't tell you if the metal housing of the S4 was energized. Only a voltmeter would have enabled you to determine exactly why you felt a tingle. Since you couldn't isolate the cause, both the fixture and stinger should have been sidlined as defective. If by gloves, you mean your leather gloves, they serve as no protection from stray voltage either. Leather is, after all...skin. It would be safer for you to unplug the stinger at the source.

Looks like skypans bounced into ?? and then diffused. If you wanted a large round ring rolled from pipe or speedrail, any steel fabrication shop should be able to produce it to whatever radius you specify. Rag and skirt would be a custom piece from The Rag Place (W. coast) or Rose Brand (E. coast).