JD Hartman

The "correct" replacement socket will put the lamps filement center in the center of the reflector dish. True you can shim a lamp holder, but there is more to it than that. Like filament shape. What lamp were you considering using in your re-worked fixture? An FEL? Most, if not all 1k Fresnels use an EGT. The FEL is usually seen in older lekos like the Alman 350Q or the open face Lowel D and DP. It's pretty much considered an outdated lamp and newer fixtures use HPL type lamps, fewer watts, longer life, nearly ther same lumens, more efficient. As for the cost, I'll have to disagree on the five to 1 cost comparison. Try Kenedy Electric for lamps, they also sell on ebay as Lights64.

The different letter designation indicate different lamp base styles and in some cases different wattage ratings. A G9.5 is a TP22 1000w socket for an FEL type lamp. A GY9.5 can be: TP7 750w socket with lamp ejector; TP22L 750w; TP22H 1200w. A GZ9.5 can be: TP6 1200w socket with lamp ejector; TP23L 750w; TP23H 1200w. You haven't stated what type of fixture you have. Is it a PAR can or a Fresnel? If you are converting from a screw base or BTR or similar bayonet base to medium bipost lamp (like an EGT), you want a G22 lampholder, otherwise for a 1k PAR globe a PAR-1 lampholder.

What kind of globes are the 'Finn light" using. I didn't see it stated on any of the pages in the link. All it says is 1000w. An EGT probably? Seems like the spacelights that B&M make with the HPL globes would be a good starting point for a similar fixture. A diffusion tent hung below and some roll up duvetyn skirting.

Since things are a little slow lately, let try this meetup thing again. What do you say Annie?

Couldn't this be done from a fixed height platform above the actor and a zoom lens? Scaffolding or two wide base stepladders with an extension ladder across them. This doesn't solve the lack of a video tap, but as I see that is a separate issue.

I'll have to disagree with this statement. I've found Shadowstone to have great prices on gels. I believe they have nearly the entire Rosco line in sheets as well. Anything they don't have usually arrives the next day, with just a phone call. They have GAM and Lee as well.

Color temp of the "work light" globes tends to be little lower than that of the equivalent stage and studio globe. If you want globes with a color temp that approaches or matches that of the Omni, you have to buy better quality. Even replacement lamps at HomeDee or Lowes should have the color temp printed on the package. Try Ushio FDF (clear globe) or FDN (frosted), 3200 deg. K. or the equivalent in GE, Radiac, etc. I don't think the GDA lamp will fit in a work light and at $18, it's no bargain.

These guys make curved PVC track. http://www.longvalleyequip.com/index.php

The offshoot, as illustrated in the photo, reduces torque induced stress on the weld holding the pin to the frame. While handy to hang a net or silk for storage, it's there to prevent the pin from being twisted off. Pony and Hargrave are the names of two companies that manufacture spring clamps.

Ground should attach to the hickey, lamp pipe and/or other metal parts of the fixture.

Before you remove the dropped ceiling, check to see that it isn't used as the air return for the HVAC system, most are. That will result in uneven heating and cooling of the space. If you are planning on permanently lighting the greenscreen, V lights aren't going to be very effective. The greenscreen should be lit as evenly as possible from top to bottom and side to side. Better to buy some used "cyc" lights. They have a reflector designed to disperse the light evenly just for that purpose.

That's mounted onto what vehicle? Ford Excursion, Expedition, Explorer, F-150? What was your attachment point under the bumper, factory tow hooks, frame rails or something else?

All the information you need is printed right on the original cable. If your fixture has an in-line switch, the section of cable between the switch and the head will a high-temperature type. I'd bring the cable to an electrical supply house and have them match it.

Can you shoot video or film successfully using HMI(s) with magnetic ballasts? Of course you can. For one thing, electronic ballasts with the "flicker free option" didn't always exist. If you are running your lights off utility power (the "grid", mains, etc.), the frequency is tightly regulated by the power generation company. There should be no problems unles you are shooting at a shutter speed that isn't "safe" at 60Hz (50Hz in Europe and elsewhere).

I've used 250 to 300w globes in 16" ones, with plastic sockets and have not had any problems yet. Yes, ceramic sockets are the proper choice and I would also use high temperature wire (16-2 HPN), not lamp or zip cord.

The Harry Box book is good starting point. You might also want to read a book on industrial/commercial electrical work. What you are dealing with here is the Power formula, P (watts) = I (Amperes) * E (voltage). To determine the amperage draw of your 10K, 10,000 (watts)/120 (volts) = 83.33 amps. So it need to be connected to a cable terminated with a 100A Bates. Another consideration would be voltage drop of the cable at the (single run) distance from the generator or power source. Yet another fomula found in the Box book or any good Electricians text.

That means knowing what the correct tool for the task is. In this case, being a Grip, you should know which blade to select for the type and thickness of metal you are cutting. It also means showing up for work with the proper tools. There are too many people, calling themselves "grips", that don't know their butt from a rat hole.

The moderator for this forum and the Lighting forum is probably out on a job. How are you going to attach the "L" bracket to the deck of the dolly? Wouldn't a short section of 2x2 angle iron (or old bed frame) worked just as well and been more ridgid?

Count me in too. But are you serious? You want to get together, sit around and talk under an HMI??

It serves no purpose to post information such as this without a link to a credible reference. Tricos are still made, a 5 wire tie in set in small medium or large can still be purchased. I will add that the design of some residential panels makes it difficult to attach a trico to the hot or supply bus. A tie-in using an appropriately sized breaker would be a better choice. If you wish to obtain some protective equipment, insulating gloves and/or sleeves for class 0 work would be sufficient. In addition, you'll need to wear leather protetive gloves over the rubbers to keep from tearing or wearing through them. A pair of safety glasses will protect your eyes and absorb most of the ultra-violet light emitted during an arc-flash.

Insufficient data to compile a meaningful answer. Tungsten streetlights? If the "color" of the light appears yellow, then it is more than likely high pressure sodium. I'd use 2k fresnels with white flame green gels. You don't have the correct stands on the list or hardware that could be used to mount your fixtures to the existing poles.

Annie, Were you able to find any work on the East coast through "Below the Line"? Did you eventually subscribe to the web job listings? I have seen ProCrewBook referred to in a number of job postings. Looking at the site, there doesn't seem to be much content (or jobs) there. Seems like another scam, a website charging you for the opportunity to view job openings. Very much like NYcastings, which is an actor website, but also ran free crew listings. Then they realized that they could rake in more more bucks by charging everyone for details about every posting.

Non-disclose agreements? I guess that didn't stop anyone from taking the many videos that are up on youtube, like this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MEUHBepUFI4...feature=related Not to mention the stills that may or may not have been taken by the crew during the shoot.

Would that "standard hacksaw" have an 18 tooth, a 24 tooth or a 32 tooth blade?

To clean up the edges after the cut, you could use a deburring tool like these: http://www.shaviv.com/ or clean up the burrs and rough edges with a strip of emery cloth wrapped around a dowel or rod. If you use a circ. saw to cut metal, be sure you wear earplugs.