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Roger Haney

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  1. So, you like experimentation? Have I got the camera for you!!! Have you ever heard of Ultra-pan8? The format uses the entire width of Reg8mm film to shoot a widescreen image that is around 2.8-1. That’s right: Wider than CinemaScope. The UP8 camera is a hybrid between a Bolex Reg8mm reflex and a Bolex 16mm reflex. It has a Reg8mm frame pulldown; but a 16mm image width. Canadian Nick Kovats initiated the format. Canadian Jean-Louis Seguin(The Bolex master) does the conversions. You can find him via his Facebook page. I have camera #5 and my friend; a Hollywood animator; just sent in his camera to have it converted. He borrowed mine and he loves the format so much; he had one made too. The image can be scanned and edited or projected. There’s a chap in England who modifies Specto projectors to show the film. I have one of those too. Examples of Nick Kovats shoots can be found online and on You Tube. My favorite is: “My memories of her a missing.” Something to consider.
  2. Well, a neutral density filter is useful when you think you have too much light and don’t want to overexpose the film. 50D has at least 2 f-stops of exposure latitude either way; but you may need a bright, sunny day for proper exposure with this stock. Reversal films; such as Ektachrome, Plus-X or Tr-X have less exposure latitude. Usually around 1/2 an f-stop. A ND filter could be really useful here; but you could also shoot in slow motion to get a faster shutter speed. Another reason to use ND filters is to open the aperture wider for shallow depth of field. There are varying degrees of ND filters that would need varying aperture settings.
  3. Well, he needs spools with round holes; so the solution is to buy them on eBay. Lots of em.
  4. Also there are daylight spools; with round spindle holes; on eBay.
  5. I just looked at a Bolex H-8 online and they do have round camera spindles. A friend of mine borrowed my Bolex UltraPan 8 Camera; so I can't look at it. The daylight spool that I shot that 2x8mm Cinechrome does have square holes.
  6. Well, I have a specially modified Bolex that shoots a 2.8-1 image on 2x8mm film; it's not split and I show it on a specially modified 2.8-1 16mm projector. I get my unsplit 2x8mm film back from the lab on the original daylight spool; which is a 100 foot 2x8mm daylight spool. It does have square spindle holes in the spool. I don't know why yours has round spindles/holes.
  7. There is a 25ft regular8mm spool on eBay for $7.95. I really don’t think there is a difference between 100 foot 16mm and regular8mm daylight spools. I shot regular 8mm reversal and did not have it split; had it returned on a 16mm spool and was able to project it on a 16mm projector. I’m thinking they’re the same spool.
  8. It’s called a “100 foot 16mm daylight spool”. I just checked and there’s some on eBay.
  9. I would like to offer an alternative. The Fujica ZC1000. It is considered by some to be the best 8mm camera ever made, but it shoots Super8mm film in a different cartridge called Single8mm. It has transport speeds from 9-72fps, a variable shutter, a fantastic C-mount zoom lens and it's one of the the few cameras that can film in reverse for the the entire cartridge(Super 8 carts can't do that for more than 10 feet. Color film, Fuji and soon; Ektchrome, and Kodak Tri-X; are available from Retro8mm(Retro enterprises) in Japan. Film has to be processed by them because of the cartridge.(These films can be shown in any Super8mm projector)The price of these cameras has really come down in price due to better availability of film stocks. You can get one on eBay; in decent shape; for $250-$300 now. This format is very popular in Europe.
  10. Well, since the shutter speed changes with the transport speed; this may cause issues with exposure. The shutter speed is roughly twice the transport speed. If the camera has an auto iris; there may be a lag until it corrects the aperture for the proper exposure. Going from 24fps(1/48th-sec) to 18fps(1/36thsec) May briefly cause under exposure. Going from 24fps to 36fps(1/72nd-sec) May briefly cause over exposure. If your camera has a manual only iris; I wouldnt try this with reversal film because it doesnt have the exposure latitude. Negative film stocks are more forgiving with over and under exposure. If it were me; I would get an intevelometer application and do it in post.
  11. The Elmo st-180E (and one other, I think) has a speed control under the cover; in the rear; for fine tuning 18fps and 24fps. You can project on a small screen and do a telecine with a video camera that records at 24p. A friend of mine has been running a very successful film transfer business; for many years; and he uses this method with this projector and a Sony camera. He just fine tunes the speed adjustment until the frame rate locks in.
  12. Generally, grey cards are used for metering and white balance is only for video and digital photography. Have you ever seen the single color frame of the lady on film leader? Ever wonder why she is in there? She was a reference for colorists to color time film properly. Everybody does color correction in digital post these days(which is why it takes so long to edit video.)
  13. Fortunately, all of the cameras I have bought off of eBay have worked to some degree. I would check with the seller to see if they have put batteries in and run the motor. A lot of these cameras have had the battery contacts eaten/corroded from leaking batteries. Ask about that. The best cameras are Nikon R8/10, Beaulieus, Canons, Nizos. Other good cameras are Chinon, Bolex, Elmo, Sankyo, Yashica. Dont buy expensive cameras without assurance from the seller that all of the functions work(not necessarily proving it by shooting film). At the very least make sure the motor runs. You can get by with an external light meter; if the internal meter doesnt work. If the lens doesnt have an aperture ring; you need to make sure the auto-iris works.
  14. Great camera choice(I have two and I'm learning to repair these). This camera has excellent registration for steady images. The zoom lenses that come with these have extremely sharp images;!but you can probably get sharper images using primes. I use Nikon 35mm film primes and I also have access to a set of Cooke lenses. You can get inexpensive "C" mount adapters on eBay that adapt to just about anything. So, good glass for sharp images. As a rule of thumb, the lower you go in ASA film; the less the grain. 50 ASA would be ideal; but I think 100ASA is the lowest they make today(Provia 100 for reversal). Kodak negative stocks will be even sharper. I recommend Bitworks; in Toronto for scanning; as they'd do excellent work with a sprocketless scanner.
  15. The shutter speed for 24fps is 1/48th of a second. Negative film stock has pretty good exposure latitude; so I think as long as you're stopped down all the way; you should be good. The funny quality about film is: the more you expose it to light the less sensitive it becomes and the less you expose it to light the more sensitive it becomes. Reversal is less forgiving. Another way to lessen exposure time is to shoot in slow motion. This is especially useful when shooting reversal film in bright sunlight and you would be overexposing it otherwise.
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