chuck colburn

Robbie Muller (sp.) shot Repo Man. And I know Alex Cox didn't have a very big budget for that one.

Adapters vary in quality. Here are a couple of good ones. http://www.cinematechnic.com/products/PL_M...pt_ARRIBay.html http://www.denz-deniz.com/lensadapt.htm

Looks like an Arriflex standard to me.

The Angenieux 10, 15 25, (can be had in a f0.95 version) 50, and 75mm "C" mount lenses are good bang for the buck.

I second that. I use them for recording and listening and even with my metal detector. lol

What Mitch said. Also I don't know how long it's been like that but if there is moisture in there you should have it looked at ASAP as that can lead to fungal growth which can spread and eat the coating off of lenses and worse.

Can't tell for sure, but is it a FC (65mm)?

Everyone I worked on sucked the big whazoo. Buy the Cookes.

Actually most pelicles (sp) or beamsplitters were 70/30 %

I don't know how long of a focale length you can get away with on your shot, but if you can get the mirror close enough to the camera and use a smaller mirror here's one that might work for you. It would be best as you say to use a front surface mirror that's optically flat to avoid certain optical problems. Large first surface mirrors are rare and very expensive. Good luck, http://www.surplusshed.com/pages/item/l3602.html

Hi Jizhong, Eyepieces show up every so often on ebay. So far as changing you 2C to PL mount, it's fairly complicated as you need to completly replace the three hole turret with a new front end. This requires a teardown of the whole camera and then milling part of the camera body itself to provide clearance for the PL mount assembly. After that you need precision measuring equipment and an autocollimator to assure proper flange focale depth and parallelism of the lens mount seat to the film plane. That is to say it's not just a bolt or screw on operation.

Yeah real good stuff. thanks, Chuck

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?f...&category0=

Are you sure that you want to work on a shoot where the stylist gets paid more then the director?

This is a fun site. http://www.cinematographers.nl/CAMERAS1.htm#bell

That turret hole on top looks like it might be a Nikon mount conversion. That little tab sticking out on the top looks like a lens release lever which you would have to press to release the lens. The Bell & Howell 2709 is a fixed pin shuttle movement as opposed to the Mitchell sliding pin registration type movement. Chuck

I believe that's right Stephen. That's why they were painted white origanlly.

I believe the GC (government camera) was a high speed (128 f.p.s.) camera.

While not a sound camera, here's a package for sale. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...s_promot_widget

You should read up on current 3D shooting techniques. So much of what you have stated is just flat out wrong.

Yeah that thought passed thru my mind also. I take it this is one of the first batch cameras that has been recalled. Someone at the RED site said the OLPF is at a spacing of 8mm from the film plane on the replacements but he wasn't sure if that was different from the originals.

Ah, you might not want to use a polishing stone even one as fine as an Arkansa (sp.). There is always the chance of picking up a bit of grit and causing more harm than good. The only thing we ever used was a polishing wadding called "Neverdull". Besure your hands are clean and the work area is also clean then pull a chunk of the wadding from the can and proceed with the polishing. Never scratched anything with this method. Even worked good on that soft German silver on the film guide in the bottom of the Arri 2C bodies. You can buy "Neverdull" at most hardware stores and even some drug stores.

Yes Alessandro that could be quite true. Oil based lubricants do dry up as time goes by and can become stiff at lower temps. Chuck

The terms aperture plate and gate are interchangeable.

Yep it is. But by comparing the gate to the GG you can correctt any errors by adjusting the position of the GG.