Jean-Louis Seguin

The prism assemblies for H16RX and H8RX are totally different and not interchangeable. Thickness of glass on H16RX is 9.5mm Thickness of glass on H16RX is 6.5mm Cheers, Jean-Louis

Oliver, DS8 conversions of an H8 Reflex have different sprockets, as well as and different advance and reverse claws. Kevin, If you want to use H16RX lenses on your DS8, yes, it would be best to have a different front with a 16mm type beamsplitter prism. If you simply want to use regular 16mm lenses, you can have one of the turret openings modified to increase the flange focal distance to match the focusing position of an H16RX front. Cheers, Jean-Louis

This must certainly be one of earliest if not the earliest Nizo super8 camera judging by its selenium photocell instead of the usual CdS photocell. Cheers, Jean-Louis

If you have the battery container and it is in good shape, it can be recelled. A number of places offer this service. Cheers, Jean-Louis

The WM motor also runs on 12V but uses a different type of connector than the MM. You could theoretically use a WM with an EBM if you had a custom-made adapter cable. In my experience, the MM will work with the EBM at 50fps but the torque is weak and the roll is pulled up tightly enough. If you keep your shots short and pick up the slack between each take, it should be OK, but you have to keep an eye on it! Cheers, Jean-Louis

For good used lighting, I can recommend Walter Lighting and Grip Ltd. in Montreal, Canada. http://www.wallyvision.com/ Cheers, Jean-Louis

If it's the one in eBay # 150402682799, I had one like that many years ago and it wasn't very sharp. I think these were from the first series of Zeiss lenses for the Arri-16S camera (1950s-1960s) Cheers, Jean-Louis

The cap shown in the picture is for non-reflex cameras and goes in the topmost turret opening. Its thread size is 13mm. The one for RX cameras has a thread of 10mm. Cheers, Jean-Louis

Mr. Bodart, Perhaps it is your lack of mastery of the English language, but why are you referring to yourself in the third person when you are obvious making a blatant attempt at promoting your own company and services. This is not the purpose of this forum. Take out a banner ad if you want to advertise. Jean-Louis Seguin

Hi Scott, You can check out this site: http://www.apecity.com/manuals/ Cheers, Jean-Louis

Hi Mike, In my opinion, the best way to achieve a 16:9 ratio in Super8 is to leave the camera alone and invest in an anamorphic lens in front of the camera that gives you a 1.33 compression ratio. There are a few Century 16:9 lenses on eBay right now for under $500. Cheers, Jean-Louis

Hi Scott, I have those connectors and I can make you one. Cheers, Jean-Louis

Hi Jason, Many companies made analytical projectors or rather modified existing projector designs to work frame-by-frame, forward and reverse. Lafayette was one of the better known ones. Sometimes they pop up on eBay. If you're not picky about exact frame by frame, Bell & Howell had a projector that had a feature called Directamotion. I had one of these and I believe the model number 1592. You could stop the film on a frame and then by jabbing at the directamotion lever you could advance the film by one or a few frames. It wasn't as precise as a real frame-by-frame projector but if you jabbed quickly enough, you could get close to advancing only one frame at a time. This worked in forward mode only. Cheers, Jean-Louis

Hi Matt, I think there is something wrong with your Sekonic. In direct sunlight, a typical reading would be 40 to 80 with the hi slide IN, which is more like f/8 to f/11. That's a 5 stop error. Try to take multiple readings in the same light and hold the meter body in different directions whilst keeping the lumisphere oriented the same way. Readings should not vary by more than 1/2 stop. If it moves as you rotate the meter, your movement is out-of-balance and readings will be unreliable. Very hard to fix. Another possibility is that something is hindering free movement of the needle. Another less likely possibility is that the photocell is kaput. Cheers, Jean-Louis

The 16BL weighs approximately 20 lbs fully loaded. I'd suggest a tripod rated for a bit more load (30 to 50 lbs) would be a good match. The old O'Connor 50 was often used with the BL. Cheers, Jean-Louis

As has been mentioned many times before on this board, I strongly recommend that you read Mr. Dennis Couzin's analysis entitled: "THE TRUTH ABOUT THE BOLEX PRISM" available at http://city-net.com/~fodder/bolex/truth.html This is by far the most accurate explanation of the effects of the prism on image results. Cheers, Jean-Louis

Hi Bryce, The main thing your RX-1 won't have is the 1:1 shaft found only on RX-4 and RX-5. Necessary for using some types of electric motors. You can't really modify a 6x to turn it into a 14x. You need a complete new viewfinder assembly. The only place I know that seems to offer a new 14x replacement viewfinder is JK Camera. I remember they used to have a picture of it on their website but then took it down about a year ago. Cheers, Jean-Louis

Most custom candlemakers can make some for you. Try:http://www.wicksandwax.com/movie_candles.htm Cheers, Jean-Louis

I finally did order the bulbs from Bjorn and they work fine. However, I should correct some information. Bjorn gave this as the different bulb's rating: 4008: 30mA charger, 2,5V 0,06A fuse bulb. 5008: 50mA charger, 6V 0,6A. R16: 50mA charger, 6V 0,6A. R16: 90mA charger, 1,5V 0,1A. No problem for the 4008 and R16 90mA information. For the two 50mA chargers, it should read: 5008: 50mA charger, 6V 0,6W (which is 0,1A or 100mA) R16: 50mA charger, 6V 0,6W (which is 0,1A or 100mA) Cheers, Jean-Louis

You can't use just any old door for a EBM. You need one that is compatible with cameras having 400 foot magazine capability. There is a slot cut out on the inner plate that matches the sprocket guide lock lever when it is pushed forward. You will not be able to close a door that doesn't have this groove. I can sell you a compatible used door for $50 USD plus shipping. Cheers, Jean-Louis

A few light scratches shouldn't cause any image problems. If there is grease or fingerprints you should replace the gel with a new piece. If the gel is old and looks wavy or warped, you should replace it. Cheers, Jean-Louis

I did this as a special request once for someone but instead of using tape I placed two thin strips of ND6 or ND9 gel at the top and bottom. Less messy. Cheers, Jean-Louis

Hi Scott, Best way to find out what speed the camera is actually running at is to check it with a crystal speed checker. Perhaps you can bring it over to one of the rental houses in your area and they should be able to check it for you. Cheers, Jean-Louis

The Switar 10mm f/1.6 preset version often comes with a black filter retaining ring at the front. This ring must be removed when using on super16 camera as the ring will encroach into the field of view. I can recommend the Kinoptik 9mm as a very good wide angle lens that covers super16. Unfortunately they are scarce on the used market. Cheers, Jean-Louis

H8RX lenses will not focus on a H16RX. On top of that, their image circle is too small to cover 16mm. Cheers, Jean-Louis