Jean-Louis Seguin

The majority of viewfinders in super8 cameras display approximately the super8 projected area which is a bit less than the full negative area. Since the viewfinder image is the product of light going through a bunch of relay lenses and mirrors, which are prone to shifting their positions over time, accuracy also leaves to be desired. I did framing tests of 5 different super8 cameras many years ago and I recall that none of them were perfect. All were off either vertically, horizontally or both. I would recommended doing a framing test if you're really concerned about accurate compositions. At least you'll know what to expect. Cheers, Jean-Louis

You can order a replacement battery container from: http://www.cine-super8.net Cheers, Jean-Louis

You should never clean the gate area with any kind of brush or even worse Q-Tips. They can both shed hairs or fibres that can get stuck in the aperture. Use an orangewood stick to scrape away emulsion deposits and compressed air to flush out loose particles. This should do the job. Compressed air is also best for the insides of the mag chamber. Cheers, Jean-Louis

Hi Michael, Sounds all very interesting. Are you retaining the same motor or exchanging that too? Cheers, Jean-Louis

If all you're planning on using are prime lenses made for 35mm photography, yhen it's not really necessary to shift the optical axis of the lens mount. You'll have plenty of coverage. Cheers, Jean-Louis

Hi Michael, Looks like an H8T, late fifties or early sixties I'd guess. Cheers, Jean-Louis

My guess is that the one listed at T/2.8 is a mistake. A lot of them have passed through my hands and they were all T/3.1. Mind you, this is only a quarter of a stop difference, negligable really. Cheers, Jean-Louis

I can recommend the SIMA model SL-20LX. Built-in rechargeable batteries. I don't know how you would attach it to the Flip however. The Sima has a hot shoe and also a 1/4 inch thread socket. Cheers, Jean-Louis

Thanks. Here's another attempt with a picture host: Click here! JL

Hi Daniel, Can you explain how a faulty battery could be the cause of flicker. What kind of motor do you have on your NPR? Doesn't the motor have a low battery warning of some kind? Cheers, Jean-Louis

Never had so many Bolexes reunited at the same place and at the same time, so I seized the opportunity to take this picture for posterity. I'm still trying to post a bigger picture (2486x1498) but I can't figure out how. Help anyone? Thanks. Cheers, Jean-Louis

Hi everyone, A couple of "my" Bolexes. Cheers, Jean-Louis

Hi Amy, I can't recommend anyone but we had one of those Moviola flatbeds many years ago in the film department where I work and we still have some spare parts and some service information if you should need something. Cheers, Jean-Louis

WD-40 will remove the camera tape residue without damaging the leather. Spray onto a cloth or paper towel, NOT directly on the camera. Lighter fluid will also work well but may dry the leather. Cheers, Jean-Louis

I think NiMH cells are great but the original chargers for NiCads become very slow, almost trickle chargers when used to charged up the higher capacity NiMH. However, if you can find an updated charger, then you're in business. Cheers, Jean-Louis

What you believe looks like plastic is in fact the anodized aluminum gate. Bolex most likely switch from steel to aluminum to cut manufacturing costs and it does the job. Aluminum can be anodized to just about any color you want. The pressure plate is also anodized but this is what is called "hard-anodized" to a deep shine and it is black. Cheers, Jean-Louis

Since the camera itself has no on/off switch, how are you currently running the camera without a flat base or a power grip? Cheers, Jean-Louis

Yes, it's always preferable to order them pre-assembled (spot-welded) to minimize soldering. 5 pairs of 2 batteries is great; two packs of 5 would be better but I see Digi-Key doesn't offer that configuration. All you'll need is to make some endcaps for the + and - contacts. Single-faced copper-plated blank PC board material is good for this. Good luck! Cheers, Jean-Louis

Hi Richard, 4/5 A size works well. They are around 1000mAh for the NiCad which is the same capacity of the original Varta cells. Cheers, Jean-Louis

Thanks for the info, Roberto. I am assuming you have eliminated the variable shutter feature to get your 220 degrees? Cheers, Jean-Louis

That's a very weird camera indeed. Nice modification. I see you have a front from H8RX with a screwed down turret. Is the camera 16mm, regular8 or DS8? Cheers, Jean-Louis

Check if the "MOT"-"O" lever is set to MOT. If your camera came with a rewind crank, try this: Put "MOT"-"O" lever to "O". Push in side release lever towards "M" and lock. Insert crank on rewind shaft and try to rotate. This might free up the mechanism. If you don't have a crank, try rotating thw sprockets by hand with your thumbs. If the camera is still stuck, then it is more serious internal problem. See if the seller will take it back. Camera will need to be looked at by a technician. Cheers, Jean-Louis

First, have you checked if there is any film inside? If so, the film might be jammed or the loop has been lost and is pulled too tight, blocking evreything. Cheers, Jean-Louis

I stand corrected. Charlie is right. I didn't see the hole on the inside of the door. I haven't had a Filmo in my hands in a long time and I didn't think you could pull back the pressure plate far enough to fit a prism in the gate. Cheers, Jean-Louis

This is not reflex (through-the-lens) at all. You will still have to correct for parallax. It just gives you the flexibility to move the eyepiece around to different positions. Cheers, Jean-Louis