alexandros petin

I ve done my research here about "skip bleach" and "bleach bypass" i will go one more to completely understand things out. thank you again for your help

Thank you for the answers Well im not sure which season is being shown here in greece. ill have to check it but the opening titles are the same i think between seasons anyway what i see and i dont know how to explain it is that the highlights are burnout the contrast a bit high but still the color saturation looks normal. so i thought it was skip bleach used but still i was expecting desaturated image. anyway it must be complex to understand because i think they use lots of post to their footage. i searched the forum and found some info about skip bleach and also i have seen for example Amores Perros which has scenes that have skipped bleach.any other movie i could see?? im trying to see if skip bleach is the right way to go for a micro budget short im self processing. thank you

Hello! If anyone watches Cold case series i have some questions? what medium is it shot with? some scenes look like 16mm also if it is with film do they use skip bleach process? or this look is something else? thank you

hello maybe you already have this but i thought maybe it could help you good luck with your shooting and if you want share with us some results .aspect185.pdf

Seeing this picture doesnt help much.Excect the bad plastic finish (which maybe (??) doesnt affect shooting) all we can see is a difference in the presure plate which is still plastic but solid without the kodak bumps. Is that enough? Its a patend and maybe we cannot see the inside parts before buying one(the first buyer and user if kind enough should send us some pics) I would like to see if there is some better mechanism behind that gate comparing to kodaks metal thingy which most of the times works great

Well it looks like sweet or something you can eat.! any update if it is reloadable or only sold with GK-Film film? (im going to get something to eat)

maybe you forget to remove the lock screw,(the cap like one)the silver with the red outline. also maybe because it hasnt been removed for long unscrew the lens via its silver round mount with patience and force not too little not too much. hope that helps

So i have some questions and this thread is similar. to sum up for a bolex RX is there anything else than the century adapter to use? The Century 5.7mm f 1.8 c mount lens has also the ussual problems caused by the prism? thank you

If you check his site there are many interesting (disturbed acording to others hehe ;-) ) stuff i like his work

Hello a little bit off topic but since you mentioned it i have a question how can someone estimate the age of the film using the batch code number?

My mom sais im not allowed anymore to surf in the cinematography.com lol now really very nice footage.

Yes shooting one of all 4 as a test is the ideal, so that you can see yourself what is best for you. what i think is that the 200t stock is the most forgiving one. Tri x is grainy (even more as i home process it) and its wonderfull , to my eyes its grainer than the 500t. thats why my cameras overexpose 500t more than Tri X. when it comes to comparing the b/ws with the color ones its difficult because the b/w films are reversal and the color are negatives.

Comparing the frame with 35mm stills when wide open the 16mm frames seem to be a little better! maybe because the frame is at the center of the lens so better result etc. So that viewfinder prism again, Nick Mulder, right? Well i quess we settle down with our cameras special charecteristic and as you people of the forum have numerous times suggested TEST TEST TEST. thank you again for your help.

Hey Matthew W. Phillips!!! Very good results once again. but are you sure balsa is strong?I used it for models back when i was in architecture school and it was like butter.maybe it has to do with variety of balsas i dont know. Also i have the same question like Dan Salzmann, about the aluminium support blocks. Maybe its not so difficult, expensive to consider another prototype with aluminium. Good job there and keep us posted

Well i will check again the negatives to see those infinity shots cause i never thought infinity would be a problem.About the m42 lenses i knew that problem but for still cameras.well not only. On my next test i will measure precisely the distanse of the subject to compare it to the lenses distance marks. In my first i relied on the viewfinder only.

Hello I bought a c mount adapter and now i can use my nikon lenses with my bolex (nikon brand adapter) i read here cinematography that the lenses need to be collimated. My test roll shows no problems except with the 50mm when wide open 1.4 it is a bit soft but still acceptable(for me). If i dont collimate the lens is that a big problem? Thank you

Hello I am tranfering film at home with a variable speed projector off the wall for preview.So far i had success with color positive film and with b/w positive and negative the problem comes when i try to transfer color negative.the orange base is the problem.is there any filter (for premier) or other method i could use ? i think that with a camera tha color corrects could do something but dont have one thank you

I think 50feet reels were sold after special order until some years ago.Not sure about it, anyway recently i saw a guy selling some 50feet reel stock on ebay.Maybe he has some empty reels also.do a search for kodak vision2 and you ll get the seller.

However, the dark fringes of the German 1990s S8 underground scene, well, those guys loved those stocks and made the unpredictability part of their aesthetics - very Warhol/Factory..., just less controversial, daring and without resulting cultural impact (any member of the ANRRP Hamburg still alive?) Michael Lehnert Well this could be a topic in the super 8 forum cause i think there still is some underground (unpredictable, maybe bad scratched) super 8 scene. Michael Lehnert very usefull info.Beeing in Europe i was tempted to order some extremely low-speed high-contrast B&W film they advertise, but now im having second thoughts.(Had them anyway since i could find info about the stock, or from people that used it just to see the result) I think some feedback, post from Kahl company would be ideal. Lets see if they have some answers about their products.

Hello Sander In case you dont have access to other lightmeter One thing tha worked for me ( i saw it here in a thread i think) is that if you use the light meter with 1,5 volt battery you should do the following (Film{ASA}/5)x2 and tha gives you the proper reading For example a 400 asa film you rate it as follows (400 / 5) X 2 = 160 thar rule works and gives me the same reading in the 18-86OE and matches the lightmeter readingsin my nikon FM2 also the footage comes ok Ok i know i must buy i lightmeter Good luck with your shoot

Maybe you could consider a kit with interchangeable frame boxes.if thats possible.

Well really nice but personally i like Matthews better. I think Wittners costs more than Matthews new laser accurate drill press. :-)

yes my english is bad! anyway to the left is the REX 4 later I-T button. to the right is the earlier. the blue highlight is the 1:1 drive shaft for the motor, something the earlier rex4 model didnt have.do your research now read the manual and have FUN. and yes shooting film as a hobby makes you thinner ;-)

if it is a REX 4 (the it knob is replaced by a rotating button like thing) which i cant tell for sure from the pic and with three lenses (which are the expensive presets), rexofader, lightmeter etc its very cheap. go for it.

Hello! im new at this also, but among other things that people to told me to check are the following. if you can check yourself is better if not ask the seller and cross your fingers first of all you could ask for the serial number located at the base of the camera to see exactly which model it is and its features at the followiing site http://www.bolexcollector.com and others. then a bolex at its full wind gives at 24fps 28 second of shooting (dont remeber exactly the seconds but 99% sure) that means that the spring should be powerfull so the camera runs constant without slowing down.(thats critical) also the optics should not have dings to the glass fungus etc. the camera seems fine in the pics but these models are old and its seems for sure that you are ll have to service it to give you the best of its potential.i havent clad mine and it works fine for the micro budget shorts i try to do ;-) what will this cost you?