Gareth Blackstock

Hello, Yes, the Pentaflex uses daylight spools, and one can load in subdued light, however, I prefer to change in the bag, and also "general opinion" among film users appears to recommend changing in the bag. Also, when I got my K3, I practiced loading film, like you suggest, and yes, I can do it in the bag entirely, it just takes me quite a few minutes to be happy with the load. However, the Pentaflex film path appears to me, an amateur, to be a hellava lot more complex than the K3. I just loaded one of my film cassettes, and from start to finish, the whole process took me 6 minutes. Considering I have not practiced loading the cassette, I reckon thats pretty good. Cheers, Gareth

A while ago I bought a Pentaflex kit, and while I have not had the chance to use it yet, life getting the way, etc. It struck me that loading the film cassette in a change bag was going to be difficult. Now unlike a professional, I don't get to shoot often, and becoming skilled at loading film in a change bag could take a long time with lots of mistakes, tight loops, not sitting on the gear, etc. And the more I looked at the Pentaflex's film cassette film path, the more worried I became. So I thought up a way that I could thread the Pentaflex's film cassette in light, and also ensure that film such as negative is not exposed to stray light. I am not sure if it's old news, or been done before heaps of times, but I thought I will save me alot of time, and perhaps assist other film loaders who don't get a chance to load frequently and become skilled. 1. cut a small slit into a spare 100ft film cart, just under the lid. 2. place into change bag, place film inside, pull out enough film to thread camera through slit 3. close film cart lid, place tape over film and slit to ensure light proof and remove from bag. 4. in normal light, go about threading the film cassette, wind onto an empty reel. Leave film cart sitting ontop. 5. place everything back in the change bag, remove the unexposed film from the cart, place and secure into cassette, place lid on, and secure. Below is a link to some pics: https://goo.gl/photos/GfFWHTwRapWKLv6c8 I would be interested in thoughts.... cheers, Gareth

I recently came across this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/super-8-film-/112383459627?hash=item1a2a93812b:g:QjMAAOSwnF9Y6wTf 18 carts of Kodachrome sound film! I would be interested to see how much they go for... cheers, Gareth

G'day, I have a Pentovar 16 combo coming in the mail, and heaps of old Ektachrome reversal to shoot, cannot wait to shoot. When I come down to Melbourne I will drop in with the camera, hopefully the lens is ion good condition. Jeff, I had a look at your footage, and it looks pretty sweet. How was the footage before any post work was done on it? Any issues with the film cassettes? cheers, Gareth

Thanks, I have also added another one on the Pentaflex with more details on accessories, colour pictures, and a little more information: http://www.mediafire.com/file/ltglpn63c3tlh47/Pentaflex+AK16+User+Manual+English+Translation.pdf Cheers, Gareth

I think offering an online version is great. Without the costs of printing and shipping, you may even get more articles and info. Many people already read magazines online, and it has become much easier to do for people of different tech capabilities, a web portal is the next best thing to s paper mag. Good luck getting it started.

Hello, After recently buying a Pentaflex, I searched around for an English version of the user manual and found nothing. So I decided to translate one an upload a copy. I have uploaded a copy for download on this site: http://www.mediafire.com/file/glwq8eyin8h7w27/Pentaflex+AK16+Operation+Manual.pdf When you click on the link, a window will open. On the "download now" button, right click with your mouse and select "save link as.." It is a safe download, no junk or spam. On my job I do some night shifts, so a few hours work helped pass the time. I updated my site with pictures and info of the basic lube and adjustment of my Pentaflex. http://canon-s8-repair.yolasite.com/pentaflex-ak16.php I hope the site and manual help out future Pentaflex buyers and users. cheers, Gareth

You can have a lot of fun with colour filters and B7W film, below is one such website with heaps of samples, look halfway down the page to see how different coloured filter affect the picture taken. http://www.knowhowtransfer.com/photoshop-professional-plugins/vitaminbw-single-triple-tone-bw-converter/follow-up/ I think regarding b&w reversal people used to suggest under exposing by a stop, helps with shades, keeps blacks "blacker", and I think it's easier to correct on a computer under exposed compared to over exposed film. I think.... Do a search through the forum, there's heaps of more accurate info in here somewhere.. cheers, Gareth

G'day, Well I bought one, I had been watching a nice looking Pentovar 16 for only $130 with free postage. I figured that a wise choice considering I am not sure if me and the camera will get on yet. I was negotiating to buy 2 Zeiss prime lenses, but either my Russian is rather dodgy, or he was giving me the run around. If I end up getting on well with the camera I will be buying a nice set of prime lenses. The camera I bought is a Pentaflex AK16. In quite nice condition, just missing a lens. From the research I did, they seem a hard camera to love, but considering the cost to buy, $170 and the wide options on nice lenses, I thought "what the hell". I already love my K-3 and most reckon thats a hard camera to love... Cheers, Gareth

Thanks for the advice guys, I think I will steer definitely towards getting some prime lenses, or at least not buy a big prime lens thinking it's a zoom. (face palm) It looks like the most common available for my camera are 12.5mm, and 25mm. I will have to wait until a 50mm comes up on ebay or similar. I am keen to run some film through it... cheers, Gareth

G'day, I had a quick search around and did not come up with much good info. Basically I wanted to guage opinion on what was best lens choice for my 16mm camera. I can buy a Carl Zeiss TRIOTAR 4/135 zoom for around $200, or I can buy 2 lenses, Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 12.5mm and 25mm for around the same money. From my reading, primes appear to be the choice for quality and image, and while zooms are catching up, they are best for flexibilty. Although I am leaning towards 2 primes instead of the zoom, I have a suspicion that still photographers can easily view the differences between lenses, however, will an old 16mm camera, shooting old stock be the best way of seeing the differences between prime and zoom lenses? Am I wasting money on good glass when perhaps I would not not notice it, and would I benefit more from a moderately priced modern zoom? Perhaps I can be educated with some links? cheers, Gareth

Hello, Thanks for the constructive replies. While you are all on the button, and your thoughts make sense, I still struggle with letting a camera pass me by when just a few years ago they were beyond my reach. But, as my wife says, "you're a film maker, not a collector" Now if I could only stop life interfering with the creative process... And I guess once I finish off my old double perf stock, I won't want to shoot 4/3 again... I considered getting a Bolex years ago, but opted for the K-3 for a few reasons, they are heaps cheaper, simple enough that I can repair them, cheap to purchase quality glass, cheap and easy to convert to Super16 and sturdy. And I reckon I would be better spending top dollar on good lenses than camera bodies. Evan, I have not come across your pull down claw problem with my own cameras. My site does not go that deep into the "guts" of the camera. I have a link to a Japanese bloke who does go that deep: http://canon-s8-repair.yolasite.com/advanced-camera-repair.php Be careful if you do decide to dismantle that far, as you will be removing alot of parts just to get to the claw I think... cheers, Gareth

Hello, I recently saw a CP-16R come up on ebay, comes with lens with black dot, magazine, and dead batteries. The bids have not started yet, but I wonder if I should go for it or not? I currently own and use a K-3, and I have the wide gate and re-centering ring to convert it to super16, I have been using it for awhile and have no issues, and enjoy using it. I am working through my double perf stock before I convert to super16. What I am wondering is this: should I buy another camera and slowly "do it up" over time, things like re-celling the battery myself, researching super16, fixing the lens.... or should I just stick with the K-3 which needs for nothing? I do intend on shooting more than 100 ft at a time, but by the same token I do not shoot alot of film. The trouble is, being in Aussie, 16mm cameras do not come up often, and while there are many in the rest of the world, postage is prohibitive. And there are some cheap cameras on ebay, but most in knackered condition, no lens, no battery, and no mag. Fixing one up might cost way more than I want... When I shot super8 I ended up with lots of cameras and having to do repairs on occasion, hence my website detailing camera disassembly, I do not want to do the same thing with 16mm, too bloody expensive! I would appreciate some thoughts, maybe someone has been in the same position?

G'day, I bought a full K-3 kit for $158AUD and the camera runs very sweet! From the variety of sources around the net the word seems to be if you get a good one it will last forever, if you get a bad one you will have to give it a little TLC and adjustment. I bought a couple of Takumar primes for easy $ Be sure to get a camera with an M42 lens mount. I am yet to convert my camera to super 16. cheers, Gareth

Hello, If you have gone this far... try this site, it might be helpful. http://canon-s8-repair.yolasite.com/ Good luck. Cheers, Gareth

G'day, I was very lucky concerning the gate, a helpful member in Sydney posted me one free of charge. Much appreciated. Strangely enough I was contacted by a film maker in California chasing a super8 camera part, so I sent it free of charge. I figure one good deed deserves another. When I get around to the conversion I will be sure to take lots of pics and post on my site... http://canon-s8-repair.yolasite.com/ cheers, Gareth

Hello, I will be converting my K-3 in the near future, I already have the re-centered ring but I still want to get hold of a spare gate to widen, just in case I mess it up, a spare would be ideal. Anyone have one? Cheers, Gareth

I reckon you will love the camera. I have had no issues with mine, but I practiced loading it for ages first. Lots of M42 primes on eBay and the like. I listed heaps of 16mm links on my website, manuals, tech tips and really good K-3 links. Mishkin.yolasite.com Cheers, gareth

While I can appreciate the desire to get the best transfer possible from a format that can be hard to make it look it's best, the choice by film makers when selecting film as a medium often has little to do with sharpness of the final image. Using film enables the person shooting enormous control over how the image is exposed, using stocks, lights, lenses, and processing methods will alter the images infinetly. When a painter sits to recreate a scene before them, they are thinking of their interpretation of what they see. If they simply wanted a facsimile of the scene they would just take a photo. Using film can be a film makers way of interpreting how a scene makes them feel. IMHO. Cheers, gareth

Thanks for the good tips guys, they will be helpful when it comes to buying old stock. What about reversal stocks, can the same allowances, ie: increase stops of exposure be applied?

G'day, I have been keeping an eye out for expired 16mm stocks so I can practice shooting film, getting my head around things, experimenting etc. I have been focusing on B&W stocks as I am of the belief that less sensitivity is still workable, whereas with expired colour stocks I figure the dyes must degrade in a haphazard way, like having a red or blue streak running through the film. Of course these are uneducated assumptions, is there a web site that details how stocks degrade? I imagine a few people rely on expired stocks to actively remain shooting, and knowing how some stocks will degrade will help purchasing decisions of auction sites. Any ideas on where this info is? Cheers, Gareth

I get the boat anchor analogy, I guess the camera body has the simple job of rotating cogs and a shutter at the right speed, in some ways the mechanics have remained the same since the first camera, it would seem the expensive bits are variable speed motors, battery packs, synching, circuit board, pilot lights, lenses etc. IMHO... Could it be argued that a cheap body, ie k-3 or kinor married to a GREAT lens could render similar image quality compared to the arri sr2 with the same lens attached and same processing and telecine.....? just a thought. Gareth

Out of curiosity I did a quick eBay search on arriflex, seems I stand corrected on the subject of price, I found sets starting from around $700 with some "buy it now" for around $1100. Very cheap compared to a few years back! I wonder if bolexes are falling in price... A few more years and the prices will be too cheap to pass up... I still reckon k-3 prices are too hard to beat, I got mine for $200. Cheers, gareth

g'day, I have only had my K-3 for a few months now, not shot much, but I have gotten film back that came out pretty nice. I used to shoot super8 and after awhile wanted to try 16mm. I did an enormous amount of research and settled on the K-3 for a few reasons. (Bearing in mind I am happy with standard frame size.) The cameras are the cheapest on fleabay. The cameras are very rugged. The modern K-3 takes M42 lens, very common, can be great quality, very affordable. The camera is easy to load, despite the doomsday people. The camera can run double or single perf film, in case you want to buy film really cheap. No expensive re-celling off batteries needed. Very easy to repair. I would have loved an Arriflex, but servicing costs are high, the aluminium turret can wear destroying your focal distance, and asessories are mad money! Canon scoopic would be nice, but they are getting expensive, Bolex look very nice, high quality, but mad money with a dark view finder! The K-3 suits me, cheap to buy, nothing to maintain, no service needed, will run when dropped or thrown. My kind of camera....

Hello, Thanks for the reply. I have already shot a roll of doubleX with the 55mm, I guess I will have to wait and see when I get it transferred. I would perhaps buy a 28 or 35mm next since prices are quite low. Cheers, gareth