Doug Palmer

To me this does seem a likely cause, if not enough light-proof compound was applied after your service perhaps. If you examine your single-frame material on a lightbox, you can determine which join is maybe leaking.

Does the flash occur a short distance from the start or (possibly) end of a shot ? If so it's probably a light leak somewhere, only happening during the long time the film is at rest. By gauging that distance it's usually possible to find the spot. The Bolex doesn't have a fool-proof light seal unless kept in tiptop condition IMHO. I've more than once had issues and generally tape the lid for peace of mind.

As the flash also occurs outside the image it can't be to do with the filter slot. I'm wondering if maybe there's a door-leak near the gate area, perhaps coincidental. Does it still happen if you black tape up the join? Or is there a hole for an external magazine on top ?

It's strange though it happening with such a normal kind of shot ? Not against the light etc...

Have you looked at images in the gate ? If you don't have the Bolex gate-focuser maybe some tracing paper held in with tape. Shutter set on 'T'. A magnifier should show if the Yvars are in focus or not. Assuming your lenses are screwed in properly 😀

Thanks Simon !

It could be then an early version of Nicholas' great UltraPan8 system. I don't know how the layout of the camera's interior would differ from Pan-16. You may have to delve deeper inside to find out. Pan-16 would of course have lower running costs, but would I think present a slight problem of precise cutting of inividual frames unless done with a scan. There were so many mods done to 16mm and 8mm cameras during the 1960s etc. Supervision (yes that's right !) was another. A normal 16mm camera with vertical gate-masking, to allow double-run and splitting later. Camera tipped on its side. Again, nice images (same ratio as Vistavision) at low cost. The Widescreen enthusiasts modified their projectors to give very bright and sharp images. I have yet to see a Supervision half-16 camera.

For some reason when you click on that one his son comes up instead ! (MP Grant Shapps) Maybe contact via https://uk.linkedin.com/in/tony-shapps-bb259626?original_referer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F

Pan-16 cameras have their cam movement modified to give a half-pulldown. So you get 2 letterbox frames per normal 16mm frame. I don't know what happened to the shutter speeds etc. Tony Shapps who edits AV Concepts will know all 😃 http://tony@shapps.com He used Pan-16 a lot, maybe still does ! I can remember his impressive shows of Pan-16 on a curved screen, using a modified projector. He was a leading light of the UK Widescreen Association.

Intriguing Al, have you looked to see if the claw pulls a full 16mm stroke or for the 8mm frame height ? This camera to me does look possibly an H16. Although the spool spindles are for double 8mm spools ? Another possibility is an H16 modified for 8mm pull-down. I believe several people in the Widescreen Association had this done: name Pan-16. So saving 50% on 16mm film.

I don't think I've ever seen one ! Maybe they didn't come over here. Do you have more images ? Regarding Samuel's queries, hopefully a winterised professional camera will work all the time. But it probably makes sense to take along a small light windup camera like the little GIC that you kindly serviced for me and 24fps modified. Although not in the same league it's capable of good footage, and great to have in one's warm pocket for quick shots.

Good registration would certainly help, though probably not noticeable with handheld kinds of shots. I don't think Ultra Pan 8 normally has registration pins. Just a proper gate like all the regular-8 cameras, albeit wider. And of course Fuji's Single-8 system that never really took off.

Once I used a Bolex EBM with mag, to film a poetry-reading. I received lots of tut-tuts from the audience even though I kept well away from the centre stage. The director didn't mind as she was going to dub music on instead. She just wanted the visuals of the reader, and their annoyance and his reactions maybe part of it 😁 It is possible however to silence a Bolex if you don't mind a heavy blimp. I later made one from an old projector case lined with felt and rubber-backed carpet and a Cokin filter. Important not to have the camera touching blimp, floating inside. Super-8 much quieter and you'd still get the film look.

Just a metre cut off (or examined in a dim place) should reveal if the film is brittle or warped. Or whether shrunk, by comparing alongside a piece of white leader.

Some of the really old stuff can give interesting effects. Bear in mind also it's likely there's a considerable reduction in the iso speed. If nothing else there is plenty of blank leader for someone, and some useful spools and cans.