Chris Millar

Cruises are ass (I work in theatre on and off and its another way in) You're stuck in a tin can with the same people day after day and have to keep your corporate pants on about %99 of it (you can take them off to pee) - barely any shore time - hanging with the types of people who 'love cruising'. ack! AVOID or do it for the money - nothing else. Bring some books, learn - you wont learn much on the job.

I've been getting into wet plate recently and found this a whiles back: http://video.yandex.ru/users/alexey-mischiha/view/86/ You might enjoy it ;)

Yes you can sync a strobe or flash with a camera. I've done this. You'll need two things however: Some sort of output from the camera - if it doesn't have a sync out then some sort of mechanical thing that moves in sync with the shutter like an inching knob etc... A strobe or photographic flash with an input - some DMX strobes dont have these - forget DMX, it can only define speed but not phase which is what we need. 5 secs is good - its means you can forget your Atomic and get an actual photographic flash like a Metz or hire something with more output - it should charge up again in time. Firstly, I need to know ... are you electronically minded ? does op-amp or comparator mean much to you ? Keen to learn ? You might also want to take note that the effect isn't usually that great once the amount of work put into it is compared to the output of doing it in post.

2m ! Ok, so its not that much of a rig :lol: Why not just use a monopod like you would a mic boom ? With nothing else proper stick one end in a pocket and have a neck brace connected further up so your torso takes most of the weight leaving arms for control. Cheap.

How much weight are we talking ? (what camera) How high ? Wide lens ? Do you want movement ? What is the surrounding area like ? (what can you build/rig from) Do you need to be at the camera controls ? Sheesh ! give a dog a bone here ;)

If you were selling a stolen lens would you supply the serial number ? Anyways - your advertising is more than blatant - its annoying... Hope your site goes well ;)

There is no cine 120 - 70mm is a projection format, 65mm is the acquisition format associated with it - all things being equal yes it is higher res - yes you'll need special lenses for it, ones with a larger image circle or 'coverage' - 70mm much more expensive in terms of stock, processing, scanning and heavier rarer cameras etc... For various reasons sometimes people shoot 35mm and blow up to 70mm - sometimes people shoot 65mm or vistavision and reduce to 35mm - and then all that IMAX carry on too - but for now dont let this bog down your understanding ... I dont think I answered all your questions - ha ha - oops

Thomas, We still don't know what we're looking at. You talk about 720p 60fps a lot - I'd be interested in seeing some comparative footage if you have any...

hmmm, ok - hard to say without the settings and footage up on vimeo or likewise There are lots of EX user on these forums if you'd like us to have a gander

They may have meant "get a motor and set it to 12 fps" ... However, use a cable release as has been suggested. I bet you'll be bookmaking this website: http://www.sci.fi/~animato/ The 1/30th 1/40th issue is a confuddling mess of misinformation due to the prism (or lack thereof) - are we talking of a real time or an 'adjusted for the prism' time - and on top of that different cameras single frame 'T' settings give different times depending on the stickiness in the system (like the bell thingy in the governor).

DMX itself is too slow. DMX strobes can run faster but it is 'wild' - i.e. the DMX data tells it simply what speed to go at - not when to go ... Not: go ... go ... go ... go ... But simply: 'Go this fast' ...which may or may not be in sync with your exposure - and probably wont be very accurate on top of that.

If its marked RX it should be fine ...

I'm still learning lighting so I think being able to light the scene ahead of time will speed things up and get me more prepared. >>Makes sense - so do it. But what if you aren't able to? >>Then you don't do it. Do you just look at a location and and know right away how to light it? >>The more experienced you are the more likely this will be the case - so back to first answer: Do it ;)

Crash-cam - cameras set up with well protected film chambers that are sent flying into car crashes, water, explosions, fire etc... (camera itself be damned) ..aaaand back on topic remember that when its upside down that the top teeth are now the bottom ones - :P

From Monrovia to Addis Ababa we went via Ghana for a 1 day stop over. Like you we didn't want to spend hundreds of dollars sending our passports to other countries for weeks just for 3 month entry visas. On the advice of a friend we turned up an 'applied' for the entry visa in Ghana - we were split up, I was sent into a booth whilst my colleague was bundled off into an office... I explained pretty much what I wanted, was charged $20 US and away I went. Couldn't find my friend for about 5mins and expected the worst, but he had had a similar experience and been let out in another direction gripping his freshly stamped passport minus the same amount of cash. Upon reflection the reason we were handled in such a fashion was that the money went straight into the pockets of the customs officers involved - they were simply getting dibs and ensuring exclusivity. In the process I was asked earnestly 'which is closer to Ghana, New Zealand or Japan !!' - :lol: Now, same airport - this is trying to leave mind - we had to apply for exit visas, yup exit visas. The Customs official here was grumpy as his position was too exposed for him to go about extracting cash from us, so he instead scribbled all over bags with chalk and accused us of being Nigerian spies... Pure comedy, but at the time a little disconcerting. Advice is just to be honest, upfront but firm. Don't give an inch or you'll be rinsed. Walk about like your a distinguished gentleman going about your business and you dont take no poop sir, (but dont swear) anything less and you may as well paint TARGET on your forehead in english, spanish, french and amharic for good measure :rolleyes: Anyway, moving onto Addis Ababa ... Ok, after Monrovia - a recent enough war zone - Addis was a disappointment, consider if you might heading up Lalibela, probably the same ol' bullshit (read on) but at least you have one of the seven wonders of the world to have a look at - we wish we booked the flights (too expensive at late notice). Anyway, Addis, especially all the tourist targets save perhaps the university district is just a shitfest of beggar-gangs, and they of a more insidious variety that will befriend you over the space of one or two blocks as you walk (which we assume are their allowed territory) and then pull some sob story and/or get very offended and confrontational with you if you dont 'go home with them for coffee', 'help pay their uni fees' or 'help out with their school for special needs children' etc... Trust me, they are ALL frauds. Learn to spot them coming, and you will - ha ha its all coming back to me now ... I dunno, it just really rubbed me the wrong way, I mean in Liberia if someone doesn't like you they might just fire a rocket propelled machete at you or at least crowd around you and yell 'white man dont film me! Liberia is for Liberians !' - its honest - but Addis Ababa is just this relentless swindling (its physically tiring, honestly). Ethiopian airlines is great however - yes thanks, another Campari would be grand ... speaking of drinks, if you're like me you'll salivate at the pictures of these traffic light like drinks on the hoardings for most bars and cafes, but none of them actually have these drinks - instead, you'll have to drink coffee, which is the best coffee in the world.. Put it this way - its the: The cradle of humanity Birth place of the coffee bean and... It was occupied by the Italians for a short period yum yum yum yum that and perhaps seeing Haile Selassies toilet just around the corner from the dug up/cracked open graves (they were widening a road with articulated diggers near the palace) were the highlights. hmmm - what kind of camera are you taking ? Some quick thoughts off the top of my head: Power is sketchy - expect mild electrocution Malaria pills are for pussies, just dunk yourself in some industrial strength insect repellent industrial strength insurance wouldn't go amiss also - read the policy, make sure its up to the job, question it, if you exempt yourself by doing anything against the rules (like working for instance) then its just an expensive but meaningless bit of paper enough typing for now - shucks

Digging up a three year old thread to say you like so and so company ... Free advertising ;)

I was thinking a rolling shutter would produce different 'artifacts' for up and down motion compared to panning... Still tho, not sure what the actual problem is. Shutter angles might be involved also.

Yup - smaller hose on the end of a vacuum (with a hole so the motor doesn't overload) - or do it upside down like I do ;) Heres another option: File the gate to ultra 16 - keep the teeth and use 2R film (special order from Kodak) - but also open it up and play around with the governor so that it will go 100fps+ (I've seen an RX4 run a full wind without a governor once, can report that you'll be replacing broken parts after this kind of carry on) - I've been told by a Bolex tech (a real one :lol: ) that the older two perf models have a different claw design that lends itself to better registration and higher possible speeds ... I've done it but it was a 1R parallax model not suited to the RX lenses I have here (boohoo, another project on the shelf). Anyways, people here will be jealous if you do that hmmm - hang on - is 2R film still available even as a special order ?

Filmed in Liberia and Ethiopia earlier this year ... Both very different from each other but also the same in some ways - yup, its not Sudan but feel free contact me for lack of any other forthcoming advice. Adrian Sierkowski another user here has filmed in Senegal recently - Adam Wallensten has a thread mentioning DRC ... I'm sure someone will pop out of the woodwork ;)

Have a look at this one too: http://www.apecity.com/manuals/pdf/bolex_l...6mm_cameras.pdf

Its a bit low res there to really see what is going on ... Ok well those loading guides are there only for well, loading - I don't think moving them will let the loop form an extra sprocket larger but I suppose its possible - this is more 'timed' by the relative position of both rollers and the claw, so you can see, lots of combinations of timing to get right, you want a clean loop that doesn't bunch/pinch or get too big and rub on the guides... So make sure you scratched your registration marks - you did didn't you ? If you didn't just fess up now and I'll explain how to fix it :lol: Anyways, so I cant tell how your rollers work, but if they are like most Bolex rollers they will have a slotted section that you align with the guides and out they pop - hard to say but you might want to undo those little screws that allow the guide position to move, this might give you the movement needed to get the rollers out... But again register where they were in case moving them allows the top loop to go a frame bigger (which will likely equate to rubbing on the guide). The whole lot can be removed if you're keen - just be careful around the claw, if removed this also can be put back in as many ways incorrectly as there are teeth on a particular cog (minus one ... the correct one). Getting this wrong will mean you're pulling down whilst the shutter is open. But having said all that grinding them off just sounds ugly to me, get yourself a nice fine metal file, jeweler style and do the 'lathe' trick - honestly - I'm not joking ...

I didn't know Bolex made 2R cameras... Anyway, if its reasonably 'Bolex' in its make up then I take a stab at it: Top sprockets come off Before you take the rollers off scratch a registration mark of where one tooth is sitting with respect to the camera body on each roller... Once you have taken them off DONT RUN THE CAMERA or otherwise move the exposed shafts. If you don't put a registration or run it out of sync somehow you wont know where the teeth should sit and at worst your loops wont form properly. Its a chore trying to get it right again if you don't do this as you've got two variables... They should come off once those two grub screw thingies are loosened - the newer models at least you have to rotate the rollers so the film guides slide through a slot in the rollers - hard to describe but you should get it if you look... Heres a cheat way of doing it - use the shafts like a lathe - simply run the camera and push a file against the teeth, mind where the swarf/filings end up however and don't drive it too hard - patience ! heh heh If this isn't making sense maybe the design is different - take a photo of the area we are talking about

I remember a number like that as well ... ugh... oh well - heres where my HD knowledge falls apart - but you could use them in 'parallel' to reduce noise ? or some form of HDR ? eventually ending up with 4k or whatever ... Still, $$$ ! I want a sensor that size but simply a scaled up version of current (or older) technology - same res. just physically bigger, (larger pitch) not sure about the actual size of the photosites and what effect that has on aliasing etc... Keen to learn ;) It might even be cheaper than the equivalent res smaller sensor Am I making any sense ?

Hang on - are we dealing with strobing or blurring ? How are you monitoring your footage also ...

Yup, on top of your back focus/infinity issues you're still using non-RX optimized lenses - this is where the f4 or smaller carry on came from originally, it just also happens to have partially solved your infinity focus issue ... Mind you dont get the two confused ;)