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Nick Gardner

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  1. The old arri HMI fresnells are great lights. I used to have 4 6ks, 6 4ks, and 3 or 4 2500s. The magnetic ballasts work just fine as far as you play by the rules as far as frame rates go. They are also really, really reliable. I did a shoot in Europe for 6 months. We shipped a container of these old HMIs over there and ran them nonstop in the sleet and rain, and they never missed a beat. Light quality is excellent. They are quite happy to run on modern electronic ballasts as well. They are big and heavy, but a 4k can be put up on a stand by one guy if you do it right. Put the light on the ground with the yoke parallel to the ground, put the yoke in the stand, and walk it up from the head. Definitely easier with two guys, but doable. The quality of light out of a big fresnel is hard to beat. Nick
  2. Look at the Z cams. They tick almost all of your boxes and make lovely pictures. Cheep too. Nick
  3. Price reduction to $5k. An excellent deal just got better. Nick
  4. Sure you can buy them, or have the electricians make them up, but all of the ones that are for sale from amazon, HF etc are LED bulbs. They are hanging outside all over my neighborhood. They have little leds inside that look like filaments. Just saying clarify before you buy. That said, the ones from home depot sure look like the real thing. Nick
  5. All of these I have seen are LEDs. Nick
  6. I have for sale an as new Varizoom Cinema pro Jr head. This is the Talon's slightly younger brother. A little lighter and a little less payload. Fantastic head, I just don't need two. Camera capacity is 35lbs. Comes with jibstick pro controller with soft stops for pan and tilt, zoom and focus controller for jib operation, 100' control cable, 30' power cable, power supply and case. Head is 100mm ball, but it is easily adapted to mitchel and there is a mitchel option from the manufacturer. Works with all of the same control systems for the talon, Advanced controller for motion control, hand wheels, etc. This is a link to the exact package I have for sale. https://www.varizoom.com/product/vzcinemapro-jr-k4/ Retail is $8995 I'm asking $6k Pm me, and I'm happy to email pics of actual head. Please feel free to ask any questions. Nick
  7. Hi there, thanks for the interest, but unfortunately this head sold right about the same time of your inquiry. If you are still looking for a head, PM me, I have another head available. Nick
  8. Selling my Hot Head Remote head. Everything works as it should. very responsive and precise head. Comes with hand wheel controls, spare cables, and custom light weight tilt axis to lower the weight of the head. Pick up in Baltimore, ship via freight, or can deliver within 100 miles. Great if you want to learn wheels, also a good candidate for a motion control conversion. Ask any questions. Lots of pics listed here - http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?180546-Hot-Head-remote-head
  9. Hmm. That is unusual. What's your serial number? Nick
  10. I am sure it locks the head in place when it's in gear, what about when it's in neutral? The locks at the handwheels lock the transmission drive shafts. if in neutral the head should still move. The other two locks physically apply pressure to pads locking the axis in place. I looked at my head today, the tilt lock should compress a pad against the side of the tilt carriage. If you look in through the front of the head with a flash light, you should be able to see it clearly. If the pas is in place, and the knob still does nothing, check to see if the pad is moving when you tighten the knob. The knob is keyed onto another part on the shaft, and if it's spinning freely, something is amiss. Nick
  11. The part missing from your head is the pan lock. Basically there are two sets of locks. One locks the wheels in place, the other set actually locks the head in place like brakes on a car. Your wheel lock are certainly unique. If I had to guess by looking at them, it looks like you could engage the locks while keeping your hands on the wheels which could be handy. I'll be at my studio today and take a look at my head. Cheers, Nick
  12. Oh, and regarding the dovetail plate that comes with it, mounting an RBQ on it is pretty handy. Then you just pop off from whatever your other head is and back and forth, camera cart etc. Nick
  13. The issue with the modern bridge plate is annoying. I solved that problem by filling in the cut outs on the bottom of the bridge plate. I Just made inserts that fit into the voids and were flush with the underside to keep the pin down until the plate slides all the way over. If I recall I made them out of 1/4" aluminum bar stock. Any local machinist should be able to modify the plate for around $100. B is as was previously stated, Eyepiece leveling bracket. Pretty much a necessity with a gear head. That knob is the tilt brake. If tightening it does nothing, it needs to be adjusted. If you decide to go that roue, I'll go figure it out on mine and let you know what the procedure is. How is the cable tension? Is there a little plaque somewhere with instructions for tensioning the cables? It's pretty straight forward, and if it's not slipping, don't mess with them. Let me know if you have any other questions. Nick
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