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sines

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Everything posted by sines

  1. Hi Dio and Satsuki, here's my solution to the 24V battery for a Moviecam [cross posting from another thread] If you're trying to get 24V batteries for a Moviecam SL to beyond 40 FPS without breaking the bank, I can confirm this combo "Box store" works:5 or 6.3 amp fusehttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GFA74Y/Kobalt 24V battery Holderhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B095W2SLF6/ Seatight Inline Fuse holderhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N9PI32/Kobalt dual 24V 4amp batteries + chargerhttps://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-KOB-24V-2-4-0AH-BATT-110W-CHRGR/1003139096The above totals less than $175 all in.Wouldn't hurt to put a 24V regulator in there but I have shot 4 rolls in the last 2 weeks with no failures or voltage errors yet.https://www.ebay.com/itm/351313027708
  2. Side note, if you're trying to get 24V batteries for a Moviecam SL to get up to 40FPS without breaking the bank, I can confirm this combo "Box store" works: 5 or 6.3 amp fuse https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GFA74Y/ Kobalt 24V battery Holder https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B095W2SLF6/ Seatight Inline Fuse holder https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N9PI32/ Kobalt dual 24V 4amp batteries + charger https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-KOB-24V-2-4-0AH-BATT-110W-CHRGR/1003139096 The above totals less than $175 all in. Wouldn't hurt to put a 24V regulator in there but I have shot 4 rolls in the last 2 weeks with no failures or voltage errors yet. https://www.ebay.com/itm/351313027708
  3. *edit* never mind.. rolled back to Yosemite and Codex server 3.0.0, swapped cables and got it loaded!
  4. Hoping to find a kind soul in NYC to help me quickly transfer 1 512GB card of Codex XR media (recorded on an Alexa XT) to SSD. My expansion chassis for my Atto H680 SAS card is not cooperating and I cannot, as of yet, get either of my Mac Pros to transfer from my Codex Dual Dock (SAS). Please help!
  5. Thanks for the responses @Daniel D. Teoli Jr.+ @Tyler Purcell. Just subscribed to your channel with 5+ accounts 😉 I posted the same question to BMD's forum here, and so far, you're the only one who's chimed in with a link to footage actually scanned on the Cintel II, aside from the samples posted on their site. I spoke to a tech at the Burbank BMD office yesterday, and while not clueless, he couldn't give me much information about it. He said that I should just try to find a lab or another user that's purchased it and ask about their experiences. He couldn't give me a list of productions using the Cintel, aside from saying that people like ESPN, NFL, and the Library of Congress have the Cintel, but listed no studios, etc. with it I ask for real-world examples, because I found a Cintel II for around $24K, and I've got at a minimum of 4-6 features to shoot, ideally all on 35mm — 3 + 4 perf, no audio. I am not scanning archival footage, not dealing with warped, old film or trying to extract audio — but having a keykode scanner would be great. I relegate my digital cameras for tests or commercial work, but I'm use the Moviecam and Arri IIC + Arritechno cameras for features and special projects. When I do the math on scans of vs. buying a scanner, the later makes more sense, but I don't want to also waste time nor money on something inferior. The Cintel is within my budget; the ScanStation, even at the Archivist level, it's tipping the scale [unless Steve from Galileo Digital comes back with an offer I can't refuse]. The Kinograph, while cheaper, seems way too fiddly at this stage for it to be a viable option. I mean — most of my stuff isn't even written yet, but I still think I'd be tweaking out on building the Kinograph by the time my 6th film is shot. The Retroscan Universal Mark-II seems to be limited by resolution, and also is geared towards the home movie / archival transfer cottage industry. Not quite what I'm after. @Tyler Purcell— would love to talk to you offline about your experiences with it if you prefer.
  6. As I reach out for scanning quotes, scour the internet for deals on old scan stations, read and weep about Kinograph, and calculate the bust/"break even" threshold of owning vs. renting a scanner, I am interested in knowing what productions have been scanned with the Blackmagic Cintel Scanner. There have been many posts on Cinematography.com that suggests the quality is far inferior to the LaserGraphics ScanStation, Arriscan III, etc. https://cinematography.com/index.php?/topic/63228-blackmagic-cintel-film-scanner/page/4/ https://cinematography.com/index.php?/topic/81428-new-scanner-from-moviestuff/&tab=comments#comment-517078 "Until BMD loses the Sprockets and the bad 4K sensor with fixed pattern noise I would not call the BMD Cintel really a "professional" scanner. Also it is very much less than 2K for 16mm." This is from the owner of Cinelab in MA. "Ohh and the Blackmagic Cintel is professional in every way BUT the imager. It's 90% there... a very simple imager update will solve all the problems, now that they have a sprocketless version. “ The site says that for 35mm, the resolution is limited to UHD (3840x2160). Given that BMD create 12K cameras, I would hope that the sensor is upgradeable. I am shooting film on my feature and I fear that purchasing the Cintel 2 for scanning will be a $30K boat anchor, if the quality is garbage like the above people say. For what it’s worth, I own a Moviecam SL MKI, Arri IIC, Arritechno 35-90, Arri Alexa XT, a PL mount modified Pocket Cinema Camera 6K, Davinci Micro Panel, plus had an URSA, URSA 4.6K EF, and a few of the original Micro and Pocket Cameras. I have been pretty loyal to BMD, despite being stuck with some dead end cameras [hello, OG Ursa!] I edit absolutely everything in Davinci Resolve. Thank you, Todd
  7. I thought the rotating mirror, aside from say a system like a Photosonics (which use a rotary prism shutter and beam splitter) passed every other frame: 1st frame film, 2nd frame viewfinder, and so on. Thereby you would never see the exact frame that was exposed on the film, as the shutter would only open for the viewfinder when it wasn't exposing the film. Of course, at 24+ frame a second, the naked eye wouldn't see this, but you've never get an exact frame match when trying to do a match frame in the edit. It would always be delayed by 1 frame. Perhaps a deep neural-network based "automatic subject detection" would be "good enough" to match the footage back. Looks like we're stuck using slates — would be swell to try automatic slate detection like ENDSLATE.AI.
  8. I am sure you're very much right. My thought was running the IIC or modified Arritechno on a gimbal/steadicam/drone[!!!] with a lower-rent wireless tap, and spend the larger sum of money on the Moviecam tap, where 75+% of the shots would be from anyway. When you're in the edit, you could at least rough out what you think you got, and then slip the shot by a frame or so when your scans are back. It would be physically impossible to get the same exact frame that the film saw, and vice versa. But I think it would beat waiting for film processing and scans, especially since I'm looking into some less-than-conventional options for that. It's very much a digital/analogue hybrid workflow, but as a bonus, you could also get reference sound in there as well. .....as I sit here trying to think of other purposes for my yet unused Odyssey 7Q+.
  9. Yeah, that pricing is insane. I think they know that most people now can get Moviecams of any flavor well under $10K. There was one in Turkey for $1690 a few months ago, but I bought an Inspire 2 and X5S instead. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
  10. After writing a lengthy response, I'm backing up a little bit and wondering if a "Universal" tap would make more sense — my film cameras are @Lyle Norton Vincent's Moviecam SL, an Arri IIC, and an Arritechno, either of which I want to gut and rebuild like this https://www.fdtimes.com/2018/07/02/ultra-light-arris/ A 2K+4K flicker free, "clean" ground glass image that you could record to an Odyssey 7Q+ would be pretty nice as a backup, and also something to generate digital dailies from. Of course, outfitting your camera with a clean ground glass is another story.
  11. Yes please! Andrew is local, but it sounds like Greg has already figured all of this out — and probably doesn’t have to reinvent the wheel. I’ll PM you my email. Thanks so much Satsuki!
  12. Not to completely hijack this thread, but just how similar are Arricam LTs and Moviecam SLs? Want to rig my SL with an IndieCam Assist, but wow, they are pricey! Like 3x the cost of my camera package. Wondering if the video block is interchangeable. Side note — anyone have luck with AZ-spectrum.com's flicker free HD assist?
  13. not yet, but I think I'm not in your price range @Attila Somos
  14. I've had this for 12 years, it does the job. It's a clone of a Libec JB-30. Can handle an O'Connor 50D or Manfrotto 502HD head loaded with a Moviecam SL MKI and a 400' mag. Got it for $300 off eBay. https://kitsplit.com/rent/fancier-ft9115-6-portable-aluminum-jib-like-libec-jb30-includes-manfrotto-502hd-fluid-head-supports-35-lbs-15-kg-brooklyn-ny
  15. sines

    DIY Dimmer?

    Thanks so much Phil! 🎥❤️
  16. If you're ok with retro/ugly, and not needing to impress, look for an O'Connor 50D.. or better yet, 100D if you're really loading it up. I used it with a Moviecam SL MKI, Arri FF-2, MMB-1, Zeiss Standard Speeds, 1000' mag and still can take a few more pounds. The Arri will be up there in weight, but less than all of the above, with batteries factored in as well. See below:
  17. sines

    DIY Dimmer?

    Noted — thanks for all of your insight. I usually work with much lower voltage electronics, and didn't think about some of this before I did it. Thankfully, there were no accidents. Getting larger boxes with a grounding post, fuse receptacles, and Lutron 2000W dimmers specifically designed for dimming lights instead of slowing down motors with a PWM circuit. Guessing that circuit wasn't helping me use the full range of the rotary pot either.
  18. If you have an Alexa with a dead or damage sensor, or otherwise heavily damaged Alexa: of any flavor; Classic, Plus, XT, SXT, etc, I am looking to salvage my Alexa Plus from being completely obsolete. Specifically, I need a working A Log Print card and unfortunately, Arri won't come down in price for a factory replacement. It is much cheaper for me to buy a fully working Alexa Classic and mine it for parts. Hopefully, it won't come to that. Let me know what you might have. Thanks so much. Todd
  19. sines

    DIY Dimmer?

    I thought I could save a few bucks [more like a few hundred or more] by building a DIY dimmer. More like, putting together the following from Amazon to make it "legit". My enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TGYW46/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_DDNEFX8Z7KMGPT2VSN8T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 My dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZNVQ3HY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_MVG8FDS4HHVZTX51A655?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 My cable gland connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078RJXPVP/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_SAB65ZHJEGPQ0PC7R2A1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 My plug connectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L7704O2/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_YF9NYR484T64KGPA9YNM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008SF1JAY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_D4X839GFKF2MZA69W7CZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I am one of the few people [suckers, perhaps] that bought a discounted Relamp 2K Daylight studio replacement bulb. Rather, it was the square version, which made fitting it into the Arri 2K tungsten fixture a gigantic pain in the ass. Nevertheless, the first time I wired it up, got magic smoke due to a solder bridge, by removing and resoldering the B500K pot lay flat instead of perpendicular to the board. Next, I burnt out the B500K pot when I rewired it again, back in the enclosure. Third time *was* a charm, and got it to work outside of the enclosure. However, only the last 1/3rd of the turn dims the light. When I closed the lid, I imagine it shorted out, because I blew off one of the bads and the bottom of the PCB was full of soot. What I want is a 120V version of this, but don't see it available on their site: https://cinelight.com/tungsten-light-accessories/light-dimmer-2000-watts Has someone built something long these lines, or have a suggested schematic / link of something similar? Eventually I hope the rest of my fleet will be LED, but for now, I'm focused on this 2K tungsten fixture. Thanks, Todd
  20. As the subject says, looking for a ARRI Alexa Mini or XT Plus [4:3] Let me know what you have. Thanks Todd
  21. Hi Satsuki, Thanks for sharing these! This stuff looks great, knowing what it is, especially the first few frames grab in the wilderness. Any examples of a straight on "Abrams / headlight" flare? I'm currently in PL mount land — with a Moviecam SL and Blackmagic 6K with PL mount, but the Contax primes are C/Y or EF, and I don't know if it's work the trouble to send them to a place like GL Optic for their PL conversion. I'd need to track down the Isco 36 [like this?] https://www.ebay.com/i/114436636404 and adapt / mount.. like everyone said I'm not sure it's worthwhile. I went down this worm hole a while back and decided I didn't want to deal with it, until I saw your shots above. Thanks to Adam Van Voorhis, I'll have a full set of T2 Standard Speed primes soon. But I still like anamorphics and wondering if starting with my ƒ1.4 35/50/85 Zeiss "taking" prime lens set is better off being sold, or used as part of a Frankenmorphic IscoZeiss monster.
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