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sines

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About sines

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  • Occupation
    Director
  • Location
    NYC
  • My Gear
    Moviecam SL, BlackMagic 6K Pocket Cinema Camera, Ronin MX, Contax/Zeiss 25/35/50/85 Primes, Aputure 300D,

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  • Website URL
    http://scale.la

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  1. I thought the rotating mirror, aside from say a system like a Photosonics (which use a rotary prism shutter and beam splitter) passed every other frame: 1st frame film, 2nd frame viewfinder, and so on. Thereby you would never see the exact frame that was exposed on the film, as the shutter would only open for the viewfinder when it wasn't exposing the film. Of course, at 24+ frame a second, the naked eye wouldn't see this, but you've never get an exact frame match when trying to do a match frame in the edit. It would always be delayed by 1 frame. Perhaps a deep neural-network based "automatic
  2. I am sure you're very much right. My thought was running the IIC or modified Arritechno on a gimbal/steadicam/drone[!!!] with a lower-rent wireless tap, and spend the larger sum of money on the Moviecam tap, where 75+% of the shots would be from anyway. When you're in the edit, you could at least rough out what you think you got, and then slip the shot by a frame or so when your scans are back. It would be physically impossible to get the same exact frame that the film saw, and vice versa. But I think it would beat waiting for film processing and scans, especially since I'm looking into som
  3. Yeah, that pricing is insane. I think they know that most people now can get Moviecams of any flavor well under $10K. There was one in Turkey for $1690 a few months ago, but I bought an Inspire 2 and X5S instead. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
  4. After writing a lengthy response, I'm backing up a little bit and wondering if a "Universal" tap would make more sense — my film cameras are @Lyle Norton Vincent's Moviecam SL, an Arri IIC, and an Arritechno, either of which I want to gut and rebuild like this https://www.fdtimes.com/2018/07/02/ultra-light-arris/ A 2K+4K flicker free, "clean" ground glass image that you could record to an Odyssey 7Q+ would be pretty nice as a backup, and also something to generate digital dailies from. Of course, outfitting your camera with a clean ground glass is another story.
  5. Yes please! Andrew is local, but it sounds like Greg has already figured all of this out — and probably doesn’t have to reinvent the wheel. I’ll PM you my email. Thanks so much Satsuki!
  6. Not to completely hijack this thread, but just how similar are Arricam LTs and Moviecam SLs? Want to rig my SL with an IndieCam Assist, but wow, they are pricey! Like 3x the cost of my camera package. Wondering if the video block is interchangeable. Side note — anyone have luck with AZ-spectrum.com's flicker free HD assist?
  7. not yet, but I think I'm not in your price range @Attila Somos
  8. I've had this for 12 years, it does the job. It's a clone of a Libec JB-30. Can handle an O'Connor 50D or Manfrotto 502HD head loaded with a Moviecam SL MKI and a 400' mag. Got it for $300 off eBay. https://kitsplit.com/rent/fancier-ft9115-6-portable-aluminum-jib-like-libec-jb30-includes-manfrotto-502hd-fluid-head-supports-35-lbs-15-kg-brooklyn-ny
  9. sines

    DIY Dimmer?

    Thanks so much Phil! 🎥❤️
  10. If you're ok with retro/ugly, and not needing to impress, look for an O'Connor 50D.. or better yet, 100D if you're really loading it up. I used it with a Moviecam SL MKI, Arri FF-2, MMB-1, Zeiss Standard Speeds, 1000' mag and still can take a few more pounds. The Arri will be up there in weight, but less than all of the above, with batteries factored in as well. See below:
  11. sines

    DIY Dimmer?

    Noted — thanks for all of your insight. I usually work with much lower voltage electronics, and didn't think about some of this before I did it. Thankfully, there were no accidents. Getting larger boxes with a grounding post, fuse receptacles, and Lutron 2000W dimmers specifically designed for dimming lights instead of slowing down motors with a PWM circuit. Guessing that circuit wasn't helping me use the full range of the rotary pot either.
  12. If you have an Alexa with a dead or damage sensor, or otherwise heavily damaged Alexa: of any flavor; Classic, Plus, XT, SXT, etc, I am looking to salvage my Alexa Plus from being completely obsolete. Specifically, I need a working A Log Print card and unfortunately, Arri won't come down in price for a factory replacement. It is much cheaper for me to buy a fully working Alexa Classic and mine it for parts. Hopefully, it won't come to that. Let me know what you might have. Thanks so much. Todd
  13. sines

    DIY Dimmer?

    I thought I could save a few bucks [more like a few hundred or more] by building a DIY dimmer. More like, putting together the following from Amazon to make it "legit". My enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TGYW46/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_DDNEFX8Z7KMGPT2VSN8T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 My dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZNVQ3HY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_MVG8FDS4HHVZTX51A655?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 My cable gland connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078RJXPVP/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_SAB65ZHJEGPQ0PC7R2A1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 My plug connectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L7704O2/r
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