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Daniel D. Teoli Jr.

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Daniel D. Teoli Jr. last won the day on May 21

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About Daniel D. Teoli Jr.

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  • Birthday 12/09/1954

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  • Occupation
    Other
  • Location
    Born in L.A....NYC is 2nd home...Rustbelt is home base.
  • Specialties
    Curator - Archivist for Small Gauge Film & Still Photo / Ephemera Archive

    Experimental Filmmaker

    Highest Level Candid Photography

    World leader in Circular Fisheye & Infrared Flash Street Photography

    Underground Social Documentary Photography

    Landmark Artist's Books

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  • Website URL
    https://danielteolijr.wordpress.com/

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  1. Any updates on a good MP4 conversion software to buy? I tried most of what they said below and no luck. The conversion has good sound at the very start then keeps getting more and more out of synch as film runs. I could not try all available combinations for adjustment they said but I tried a number of them and results were all the same. The sound is not synched after first few seconds. What framerate is video tape on VHS? Maybe I need a certain framerate to set. The software has a wide range. I've been using auto and I also tested 29.97. But there is a zillion settings from 1-240. This is the email the Russians sent: --------------------------------------------- On Windows OS, turn off Intel and/or NVIDIA or Intel hardware accelerations (if enabled). Else, try selecting any other output format or change video and audio codecs in selected format settings. Select different codecs at Video tab and Audio tab. Then click OK and save recorded file again, and check video and audio sync in resulting video file. If de-sync still occurs after changing output format/adjusting program preferences, please contact us so that we could investigate the issue further. -------------------------------------------------- Other than this conversion issue I like the Movavi software suite for everything it does with very intuitive software.
  2. They have still photo software that turns girls into porcelain dolls. You can see the results on the magazine covers. No pores. Maybe the same for movies. This is just one of them. https://www.anthropics.com/portraitpro/ I never use them. I do doc work...warts and all. Here are some before and after shots https://www.google.com/search?q=portrait+retouching+software&sxsrf=ACYBGNSRfR3qutdsaPecYIPtyXCUHzW2kw:1571232086072&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjf_eXS76DlAhVIQ6wKHXAoCW0Q_AUIEigC&biw=1600&bih=806#imgrc=dWMIM6Ywa1CxMM:
  3. From a Videomaker.com email... That focus pulling is cushy work!
  4. Good article on location shooting, permits and releases https://nofilmschool.com/film-location-permits
  5. Thanks. Normally my software is fine. But projects are not complex like the one lm doing. Will check out Adobe Premiere Elements. Bob also had good idea to save various versions.
  6. For the everyday Jane or Joe, 'M' disc is rated at 1000 years. I have optical media archival tests underway now to be completed next spring. So far M disk has far outlasted regular DVD in sun exposure. Silver DVDs die in 3.5 weeks. Gold DVD lasts about 4.5 weeks. The old Kodak gold DVD lasted about 5 - 6 weeks. M disc has been in the sun for 6.5 months and no issues at all. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M-DISC M Disc can go up to 100gb, but is a variant of Blu-ray. So far M Disc Blu-ray have held up, but will not know until tests are complete if M-Disc Blu-ray are as good as original M Disc DVD. It is good to have your material archived on as many things as possible. But flash drives are said to lose data after 10 years if not accessed. I've tested flash drives after 5 years with no access and they worked fine. 10 year tests are forthcoming. Silver CD-R's have a longer life than silver or gold DVD-R's. Silver CD-R's lasted almost 3 months in the sun. But not much you can use CD's for nowadays due to low storage ability. Here is a test on a 15 yo CD . This is from a CD video recorder. https://danieldteolijrarchivalcollection.wordpress.com/2019/01/14/15-year-cd-r-archival-burn-test/ Blue, dye based CD's are terrible and die after a couple weeks in the sun. Some critics poop on optical media for archival work. They like tape. I have CD's going back to 1983. They are still readable with no end in sight for access ability. Tape going back to the early days is very hard to access do to the lack of hardware. Don't discount optical media for archival work. Only shortcoming with optical is low ability to store mass amounts of info. Too bad they didn't do some archival tests on all the faded red film we have now. Maybe they could have developed something better. Archival testing is of the utmost importance for preserving history. https://danieldteolijrarchivalcollection.wordpress.com/2017/08/19/just-because-it-is-marked-archival-it-does-not-mean-it-is-archival-2/
  7. I guess if you are good at it, it is natural, 2nd nature so to speak and no list needed.
  8. Try shooting high ASA / ISO and slight diffusion filter. You can underexpose and fool around in post. NIK software and some other brands have many presets for special effects. Lightroom has sharpness and clarity sliders you can work on. OP, really, the ballerina photos in question don't appeal to me. They just look like grainy, poorly exposed, flat, un-sharp photos. Sure I like art. But they are not good examples of art to me. You can increase / decrease the white light around the windows and door with post processing as well. It looks like some of the light may be from dodging. OP, you should join a photo forum. They are more experts at post processing still photos. Try to draw from a full purview of diffusion options to see what is the range of effects you can explore. I am highly skilled at post processing street / doc work to look good. But I don't spend much time on how to degrade photos. I like my doc work to look sharper not fuzzier. Buy one of those Lomo film cams and give it a try. I don't use them, but the devotes that like degraded images love them. Add a diffusion to that and see what haps. https://www.google.com/search?q=Lomo+photos&sxsrf=ACYBGNQs-ii2rbJWgyBRZ1sUBwVP7v8ROw:1570408258452&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiSvZbT8ojlAhUB1qwKHYNUD3cQ_AUIESgB&biw=857&bih=614 OP, when you get all your experiments done, open a free WordPress blog and post all your diffusion experiments there. Then we can point to you for options the next time the diffusion question pops up.
  9. Tyler, it started out as titles. But now the discussion has morphed into titles as well as video clips. I noticed when I saved titles and reused them they were more pixelated than fresh titles never recycled. When I wrote the post I did not have the problem I have now which is lots of video that needs editing. And I want to export that edited video to reuse later as a fresh import. Is that possible with video editing or do you have to keep the video that you put into the editor current and never export it as it will lose quality if reimported? Say I have an hour of video and need to cut it down to 10 min. I want to export in a format that can later be re-imported with no loss. Here are my export options. Mp4 Avi Mov Mpeg1 Mpeg2 Wmv Mkv Flv M2ts h264 Webm Ogv Swf Will any of them yield an export with no loss when it is re-imported? Or do I need different software? Thanks
  10. What is that Photoshop or P.S. Elements? I've heard of Gaussian blur. But I only use Lightroom. Pentax as a well as some of the old view camera lens makers made soft focus lenses. I think some of the view camera soft focus lenses used various metal sieve like screens inside the lens that could adjust the amount of softness. (But don't hold me to their build, I'm no expert.) If using for cine' maybe you can adapt the Pentax SF lens or the T mount single element lens. The Pentax 120 SF lens is adjustable only by F stop as to softness. https://www.google.com/search?q=pentax+soft+focus+lens&sxsrf=ACYBGNThT26o1SpagCk8iPtaTLbfwgGuwg:1570386579871&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwij_YLyoYjlAhUNWK0KHeBUAwEQ_AUIEigC&biw=1371&bih=691 I have a used Pentax 120 SF lens I traded for eons ago when I had an old film Pentax MF cam. Never got around to using it. Bought it for glam shots. But whenever the girls would look at my portfolio they would never come through for modeling.
  11. My Fair Lady had some good commentary about how they did things in the old days. As far as lighting tests, etc. I think it was the 50th Anniversary edition, but saw it a while back. They used stand-ins and shot the scenes for lighting and film tests days before the actual shoot. They left very little to chance. Real masters of their craft. Also great restoration before and after examples.
  12. MP4 looks better to me. More shadow detail, less contrast. VNX may be slightly sharper, but can't be for sure. In either case saturation looks too much for my taste. What I'm looking for is something like TIFF, but for video. With TIFF still photos you can import, work on it and export. Then re-import the TIFF and do more work and export. It stays the same and does not change when exported. What codec is like that for video? Or should one be shooting in a certain codec that is conducive to import and export without loss? I don't have fancy cinema cams. I'm using Fuji 1080p and Sony 4k still cams for video and don't know what options for video they do have. I just use them at the default video setting.
  13. You mentioned shutter speed. This is a motion blur shot. I'm thinking I would have used one click higher shutter speed for motion blur if I could do it over. But who knows how that would turn out? Just a guess. With candid work motion blur is a crapshoot. You can't retake it and get the same results. Selection from Bikers' Mardi Gras artist's book by D.D.Teoli Jr. - Candid With infrared flash in the dark, motion blur is very hard. 95% - 98% of the light comes from the IR flash. You need available light combined with white light flash for motion blur.
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