Daniel D. Teoli Jr.

I don't like chemicals, so go with water. They got some systems on Amazon with proprietary non disclosed chemicals. Who knows what it is they use?

That is helpful advice. I will look into it. Yes water is filthy nowadays. Here are the water test photos from around the country. Also are photos of test results from water filters. https://danielteolijr.wordpress.com/2016/01/18/6035/ I never gave much thought to water on the records. But if you want the best, then distilled is cleanest. They do sound better once they are cleaned for cracking and popping noises.

I just got a copyright claims notice from YouTube on some ancient country songs. 1930s - 1940's.

Never seen or handled them. Only 8mm and 16mm reels. This one is from eBay. Last reel from Devil in Miss Jones. I'd like to see the 70mm reels. They must be monsters! Photo: eBay

After cleaning records I get lots of static. I've been using the Robert Crumb method of washing records with clean water on a damp cotton rag and drying with soft rag. Although Crumb uses lots of soap on his records as well as water. (as shown in a vintage video of him.) After cleaning I touch the edge of the record to the refrigerator handle a few times until it stops sparking. Seemed to help greatly reducing dust magnet syndrome.The anti anti-static brush does very little as far as I can tell to remove static. (other than finish dusting after the static is removed.) The brush must be designed to not add more static. I test removing more static when flipping the record and brushing, but have not found any buildup from playing and brushing once static is previously discharged. You got any static removing tricks? Lets hear them.

Yes, that. But didn't know they were so pricey. Thanks for the help.

B-W filters are very hard to clean. The advanced lens coating makes them murder to get clean. I sometimes have to finish them up with some breath fog and lens tissue. But with the filthy places I shoot, I can humbly say I am very experienced in lens cleaning. I sometimes would get doused with soda and could hardly get a lens clean. Every time I would clean it, more soda would ooze out of lens joint where it was mounted to the ring. It was just a little, but enough to foul the edge of the lens. It was a full-frame fisheye so could not use a filter. I've tried many, many brands of lens cleaning liquids and lens tissue. Like most everything BH had to offer. The tissue varies. Some leave lint. But Kimwipes are the best from my tests as well as ese of use. Alcohol wipes are the best and beat out all other lens cleaning fluids. I can't say what effect they have on the lens coating over 20 years. I've been using for 6 or 7 years. No effect on coating from my limited use. The lens discussed above got ruined pretty much from the soda treatment. The elements were OK inside, but the focus ring was almost frozen. Very hard to turn. Camera also got messed up. On-off switch was hard to use and shutter button sticky. But you test it all out for yourself, try all the other options, then give alcohol wipes, Kimwipes, a Rocket blower and soft Giottos retractable lens brush a try. If you can use a skylight / UV filter that keeps the actual lens cleaning to a minimum. Although I like the build of B-W filters, I use Tiffen filters. They clean easy and are inexpeisnive. The B-W filters, as mentioned above, are very tough to clean perfect due to the coating. If I ever get a junk camera ready to trash I will experiment cleaning a sensor. As I've said and said again...I never clean the sensor. Never have had to and try to not ever have to with safe sensor practices.

If so, what would be an affordable video screen to buy? Thanks

Yesterday's office...

Looks good. I don't have a iPhone, smart phone or Dick Tracy watch. I just have a dumb Walmart Tracphone. But if someone wants to prepare for a blue or red hour shoot it seems like a useful tool. Or even to know where the sun position may be for a shoot. I would think the landscaper still photogs would love it too.

I use compressed air, upside down, to remove skin tags / skin growths. You have to mask off skin real good or you will get a big blister. Do at your own risk, I'm no MD. Dermatologists are unaffordable, so it is a $10 can of spray for me. I don't use on camera though. Just rocket blowers and alcohol wipes. Tried all sort of lens cleaning fluid, all terrible. Alcohol wipes are best. Have cleaned lenses many, many hundred of times with them. (PS compressed air is often times some type of gas, not air. That is why it gets freezing cold if sprayed upside down.)

Cleaning sensor is good way to ruin it. I use rocket blower and alcohol wipes on the lens with Kimwipes. Sometimes would have to clean lens a dozen times a day or more. For sensor it is rocket blower. Never had to clean a sensor, but I don't change lenses if the shooting gets rough. If the lens is attached, very hard to get the sensor dirty. And even with rocket blower, I seldom use on a sensor. Very, very seldom blow it off. I just shoot. I keep body opening down, change lens fast. I try to keep dirt out. I shot these when I was in my 60's. I've had my flash broken off at the hotshoe and all sort of physical attacks. You know the deal, generational war against the 'OK boomers.' I only bring this up to question...why do you have to clean your GD sensors so much??? Are you shooting in worse places than I do?

Did you have any issues? And I am talking about art films, not commercial films. (Although if you used some ripped music for commercial use, feel free to chime in.) I was wondering if using old punk music would be a problem? I acquired a collection of old punk handbills from obscure groups. Wanted to make a video of the bills and thought punk music to go with them would be apropos. I'm thinking music copyright must not be valued as much as visual copyright. Why would they make audio rip programs mainstream, yet copy programs to copy movies are illegal? Thanks

Good work! Make a free Wordpress blog for it. If you are of the testing nature you will be doing more of them. You could give more details on a blog.

What is your preference...all things being equal. (Same question applies to zoom out / move out.)

This Palumbo gal writes some nice articles. I've enjoyed a few of them. (Although I don't read much of them, I just like the photos she picks out.) She would make a good curator of photography at a museum...if she could withstand the bullshit they bestow on their curators. https://www.artsy.net/article/artsy-editorial-marilyn-monroe-eyes-8-famous-photographers Monroe at her apartment in Hollywood before hitting the big time. They have a nice see-through shot of Monroe at the link. I always though she had big boobies. I guess I got her confused with Jane Mansfied.

I always hate seeing her die at the end of Godfather 3.

Yesterday's office... At work on Samson and Delilah : (L-R) Technicolor technician Paul Hill (foreground), assistant cameraman John F. Warren, head electrician Soldier Graham, director Cecil B. DeMille and cinematographer George Barnes.

https://archive.org/details/100SecondFilmFestival/AnOpulentObject.mov

Thanks Ed, but not in L.A. now. I bought one of these. The clamp holds the light, but what to do with the screw part? Trying to figure out how to mount on the male tripod screw that is on top of the light stand. But I need a female coupler.

Thanks for the replies. Those cilps look interesting. I wanted to be able to angle it. It is not a regular light. It is a special IR light. I could tape it, but was hoping for some adjustability.

On Amazon About $1.40 - $15 each. Depends on quanity.

https://daniel-d-teoli-jr-archival-collection-ii.home.blog/2019/10/23/nothing-can-compare-to-the-m-disk-when-it-comes-to-digital-archiving/ The ‘M’ discs come in a variety of sizes from standard 4.7GB DVD’s to 100GB Blu-ray DVD. I’m still testing the larger size ‘M’ disks for archival qualities. But I can say, even with only partial tests complete, the large capacity Blu-ray ‘M’ disks far surpass standard AZO and Gold 4.7GB optical media for their archival abilities. Full story at link above...'M' disc being boiled below...

Crazy what they invent! https://www.zapata.com/air-products/flyboardair It must cost a bunch when they won't give out the cost.

For the last year I have tested a hard plastic and soft plastic DVD case in the sun and within the home to determine any archival shortcomings. Both cases did well with the sun test, not becoming brittle or yellowing after 1 year of sun exposure. But the soft case was a magnet for picking up a film of indoor air pollutants.