Don Cunningham

I've had optical sound films transferred on a Scanstation and thought they sounded really good. Not sure what all of the fuss is over.

You may want to give MonoNoAware a call: http://mononoawarefilm.com/film-stock

Topics keep popping up about low priced scanners, building cheap scanners, etc. I don't own a scanner, but I send my work off to be scanned for a reason - cost. I shoot film and collect film, and while it would be nice to have a scanner for my projects and small archive, it just doesn't make sense. The return on investment really wouldn't make sense when I can pay $25 per 100 feet of 16mm for a 4K scan from someone else with professional equipment. If I were to buy a machine to start a business, I'd invest in a quality unit to produce quality work for clients. Sure, if one isn't trained in conversion, maybe a "low-end" device would be good for self-training, but not for business. You want to produce a quality product. I shot 600 feet of 16mm for a project yesterday and just sent it out for processing. Rough estimate: Film stock = $264, Processing = $180, Scanning = $150...Just under $600 for maybe 15 minutes of footage? Throw in shipping and taxes and it adds up rather fast. Too fast for an independent artist, but I'd rather have a competent operator using a quality machine with quality parts. I am not a scanning expert, but someone that depends on excellent scans for my money. Like others have stated, you are paying for research, development, continuous improvements. Someone else's time to save you time.

I use Nick Coyle for my scanning. He is good, cheap, and usually quick. Price talks as a hobbyist and his overscans are very good for my budget. It is hard to go elsewhere when I am only shooting 200-400 ft at a time and am doing a scan-once...no matter the project size, he is on top to me. I'll be sending him some archival material soon (unsplit 8mm negative footage of The Monkees) to see how that comes out.

I'm 20 minutes away from Converse...

Definitely a unique quality.

I have only used 100ft rolls and can offer this based on my experience. Unless your talent remains perfectly still and your camera/tripod are bolted down, I imagine it is difficult. Since the K3 is wound, you'll need to know how long it can go before needing to be wound again. Write that number of seconds down. Rehearse and time your scene so you know how long a take can go.

I have listed my very good condition rack-over for non-reflex H model Bolex cameras. I no longer need it, so please take a look! Will ship international. https://www.ebay.com/itm/144350375929

I shot on a Bolex Reflex 1, and recently a Bell and Howell Filmo 70 HR, and use a Sekonic L28c for incident metering. I am by no means a professional, but the meter gets my footage right.

I'm about 45 miles away...

Update: Will lump together and let both sets go for $75 plus shipping if there is any interest.

I am wanting to sell off these lenses to make space and purchase some film stock for my current project. Lenses appear good with working components, the only exception being the Fotasy with the aperture blades not fully closing (see picture). Used for some photography projects. Selling as lots. M42 Mount Lenses - full lot for $75 + shipping Industar 50mm f3.5 Pentor 135mm f2.8 Deitz 28-80mm f3.5 C Mount Lenses - full lot for $30 + shipping Canon TV-16 25mm f1.4 Fotasy 35mm f1.7

I tested the camera with a daylight load of Tri-X I had on hand to ensure there were no issues with the unit and also to see how the two included lenses looked. This was my first experience using a non-reflex camera and there were a couple of times I adjusted the incorrect lens. It appears to run well, just need to do a good cleaning of the gate and get the electric motor repaired for the magazine. https://youtu.be/ocNPKjtWwCw

Now, just to have it fixed!

I was able to get a Bell and Howell 70HR set that includes the camera, two lenses and finder objectives, 400ft magazine, electric motor, cables, winding key, hand crank, and case from a local seller. The camera works well after adding a drop of oil to the various oil points. The electric motor works independently, but when attaching to the camera (with the run button locked down), it doesn't run the camera. I've searched the posts (and Google) for an answer to the following questions, but haven't found anything. 1) Any ideas as to why the electric motor isn't running the camera when connected and powered on? 2) Is there any area on the Bell and Howell electric motor (P/N C01002) that requires lubrication?

I would recommend a HARD pass on it, especially for 16mm.