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Loren Hamilton

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  • Occupation
    1st Assistant Camera
  • Location
    Los Angeles

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  1. Satsuki, copy all of that. I guess I was also referring to having gear live at a rental house as well in my stated question. I have some gear that lives a rental house as well and it does great, they're accessories that you need to have on nearly every shoot. I guess the other main concern now with buying glass is the whole S35 vs FF issue: which is smarter to invest in?
  2. Hello, I'm curious how many of you out there make a large part of your income (or maybe even most of it!) from renting just cinema lenses (and cameras too, I guess). Obviously, the camera is much more of a 'tool' that is used to get the job done, but the glass is much more of an artistic decision and may not be rented quite as often for every type of job or shooting scenario. However, glass does not depreciate in value nearly as quickly and isn't necessarily rendered obsolete on the same timescale that cinema cameras are...day rates are arguably higher than cameras at times. Do you have any do's/don't's for owning big ticket items such as cinema lenses (or cameras)? Thanks
  3. My apologies if this has already been discussed at a time, but I was curious about people's firsthand opinion between these two rehousings. Obviously TLS is the king of the crop for the most part for Panchro rehousings, but was curious between these two since I've seen a lot for sale recently. I also remember we had a set of (I think?) the P+S ones at a prep once, and they had a strange stiffness on the focus ring towards infinity (or could be close focus, but I remember it being extra strange being infinity) and the rental agent/prep tech said that that was normal and all P+S sets were like this. We sent them back and luckily got the Classics. Please chime in. Thanks!
  4. So, I'm considering a second cart for AKS cases or for maybe bringing with me on travel shoots to wheel gear through airports and hotels and whatnot. I figured a Rock 'n Roller cart would probably be the best option for a less heavy-duty, lightweight, and compact cart for this. I get a little lost on the models when looking at their website, and was wondering if any other people here have any experience with which model you feel would be the best for said scenarios? Any input or alternative recommendations would be awesome. Thanks!
  5. Yes, the MVF-2 (EVF) is the trickiest thing probably to get used to. Note the lock button on it, and the 2x scroll wheels is a nice thing I constantly forget about as well. Also, Not sure if many other people have noticed this but I've had the MVF-2 glitch quite a few times when changing settings or in other miscellaneous scenarios. Usually I just disconnect it and reconnect it you're all good. Could be a firmware thing though, it happens so rarely that I don't really worry about it.
  6. I've been wanting to get a CineFade for 2 years or so now, but there's one major downside for me: It won't work on a WCU-4, only on the CMotion hand units.
  7. Did the RED Hydrogen or whatever the phone is that they made ever become monitor-able? Was that one of the plans for it?
  8. Honestly, I love this hood. I find the extra depth keeps you from straining your eyes as opposed to a normal Hoodman. I lost mine on a shoot and was devastated, I had to bite the bullet and unfortunately had to purchase the one from BH. Definitely worth it in the end.
  9. Rasmus, I just recently got to work with the CPRO recently and I'd give it a pretty high rating. Being the company that produces the CForce motors and probably some other items for ARRI, I expected the build quality and reliability to be top notch--and it was. It felt like a solid hand unit (actually a little smaller than the WCU-4) and was nice and ergonomic. The focus knob is always a big thing for me, and I seem to judge the feel quite heavily haha. I really liked the way this one felt; definitely similar to the WCU-4 in feeling, but slightly smaller/less girthier in size. The only gripes I had were the menus. There are two ways to access the menus: through the touch screen and through the scrolling wheel. I didn't even bother with the touch screen really, but the scrolling wheel easily got bumped and would go into other menu-y screens. I set one of the three user buttons to be a menu lock and this solved this issue. Other than this, I felt it was a pretty decent item. Much more affordable than a WCU-4, and probably built just as well.
  10. Hi everyone, So I'm somewhat in the market for another focus-pulling monitor, most likely something larger than a 7" (preferrable between the (9"–13" range). Usually when we talk about focus-pulling monitors we often mention primarily SmallHD and TVLogic. However, I would like to hear some other AC's chime in on their own personal experiences with other brands (e.g. Transvideo, Flanders, etc.). Any particular pros/cons to using any other monitor? Any newer models that stand out in your opinion? Thanks!
  11. I just recently purchased a 1535 Pelican Air (the extra lightweightedness actaully does make a difference with a run bag, IMO) and have kitted it out to be for what I intend it for. For me it's ideal for travelling; best way to carry batts and a laptop on board. But in all honesty, I think it's ideal to have a soft bag and a hard bag/case for varying shoot situations. I'd love to get a Burk Bag one day, but stuck with the Panavision run bag, which sadly nearly all the zippers have broken on. As for a big production/basecamp bag, I've had really good luck with my trusty Cinebags CB01 bag. It's been all over the world and has held up quite well to the years of abuse. That's too bad if the quality of their bags has gone downhill. Another nominee would be the new O'Connor bags. Does anyone have any input in these? I checked one of them out in person and they seem like they're quite nice..
  12. I have a TVLogic VFM-058W that I use for pulling focus and I love it. The major downside is it's not super bright so a hood is a must (I actually really like the extra long TVLogic-brand hoods).
  13. This will work, or also you can do: - CForce RF Motor - LCube CUB-1 serial convertor - LBUS cables (obviously) I've never ran the CForce RF motor with the UDM-1 (or ever, actually!) but either should work fine. the RF is definitely a smaller build footprint.
  14. Does it look like it's a particular coating on the viewfinder? Maybe because it's an olde Russian camera I am a tad more skeptical, but I wonder if it could possibly be Thorium coating. I know lots of old 35mm still lenses (i.e. Pentax Takumar, some Canon and Leica lenses, etc.) had a Thorium coating, which is radioactive. The yellowing indicates it reaching a half-life state of decay. Definitely don't take my word on if this is accurate or not, just curious as to if anyone has considered this. Thanks.
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