Adam Dargan

I just want to say for anyone looking, this is a good deal for a full Bolex Kit.

Yes, Spectra did the processing, and thenegative.space did an HDR 6K scan with amazing color depth.

Thank you so much! This is actually the third time I've filmed a canoe trip. Each one getting better and better. Really happy with how this one turned out. And yes! thenegative.space is by far the best scan I've seen so far. They use a lasergraphics scanner and it's very affordable.

@Tyler Purcell Thank you! It's amazing how much of a difference the scan can make on the final image. Still, I wish it could match the quality and feeling of projected Ektachrome. The process you're talking about is the same they did on the show Euphoria right? I would be interested in trying that on a roll sometime to see the difference.

I really haven't seen much 16mm Ektachrome footage out in the world so I wanted to share this film I shot earlier this year. Filmed in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area in the Summer of 2022. Shot on a Bolex Rex 5 with turret mounted 10mm, 25mm, and 75mm Kern-Switar lenses. I lugged around a 15lb pelican case in on the week-long ~25mi canoe trip in the deep backwoods of northern MN so some of the shots are less planned out (and shakier) than others. I need to figure out a lightweight tripod system in the future. Full disclosure I've only shot reversal a handful of times so the exposure was not as tight as it could have been. I shot 5 rolls of fresh Ektachrome 100D (ordered directly from kodak). I metered with my Sekonic L-308B which limited me to incident metering. In the future I'd like to upgrade to a spot meter so I can more accurately meter landscapes. I received a flat raw 6K scan from thenegative.space and did final color in Davinci Resolve. It was an HDR scan (which comes standard now) which gave more dynamic range in the shadows/highlights which is especially useful for reversal. That said, I still probably pushed the film in color a bit more than I would have liked which is why you'll notice more noise on some shots than others. I also lost a bit of resolution in my 4:3 crop to reduce the edge framing. It's all a learning experience! Each new project is an opportunity to learn and grow as an artist.

Marta, I'm wondering how your scene ended up turning out? I would be interested to hear how you solved these problems. What approach did you use and how were the end results?

Hi, I am looking for resources on services that do super 16 conversion for Bolex's. Specifically I am looking to keep the turret mount setup rather than converting to an SMB style setup. I have a Bolex Rex 5 and would like to keep the turret mount setup. Do you know of anyone who offers these services? Thanks!

I just want to say I've use this service for several of my film scans and it is unmatched in quality and price! I receive a 6K HDR raw Prores 4444 scan with an amazing level of dynamic range. It is especially useful for reversal scans! I also wanted to let you know that Nicholas has become Nicki Coyle. This is a link to her website for more information about scanning. https://thenegative.space/

This is cool, I didn't even realize there was anything higher that SUPER 16. Do you have any examples of the film negative? I'm interested to see what the framing looks like.

Hi, I am wondering if it is possible to use this lens, Rokunar V-HQ Macro MC 90 mm f/ 2.5 Lens with a full frame camera body like the canon 5D Mark ii? I am seeing conflicting things about using a vintage lens like this with a full frame sensor. Basically, some people are saying that the mirror will hit the lens when using an improper adapter. Is this true? Which adapter can I use to achieve this setup? My goal is to use this gear for DSLR scanning. I already own this specific lens, but am looking at purchasing a Canon 5D Mii for it's sensor and resolution. If this setup is not ideal, what would be another affordable option for a camera body with similar specs? Thank you

I've been looking to add a Switar 10mm f1.6 RX to my Rex 5 setup for a while now. If anyone has one they're willing to part with, I'd love to hear from you. Best, Adam

Hi Robin, I am still interested! I sent you a private message.

Hi Robin, interested if you still have a Switar 10mm f/1.6 RX lens for sale?

Are any of the switar lenses still available?

Hi Scott, kind of a long shot since this was a while back, but do you still have a 10mm Switar you'd be willing to part with? I've been looking to add one to my Rex 5 setup. Thanks!

Thank you Dom. This is very good information and I appreciate the breakdown you gave as well as the provided resources. I will set my light meter's ISO at 64 with a frame rate of 24 to compensate for the 2/3 light loss. Thank you for clearing up the misconception about RX lenses.

Hi guys, I know this topic has probably been talked about many times here and other places but I am still confused about the correct process for getting the correct exposure on a Bolex (or analog film in general). I have shot 35mm still photography and I'm familiar with light, shutter speed, fStop, etc.. But I am totally new to shooting on 16mm film and setting the correct exposure for it. I haven't been able to find great resources about this process if you know of any please share. I'm definitely a beginner but I'm willing to put the time and effort in to learn the proper procedures. I'm using a Bolex Rex 5, with a 25mm RX lens, and shooting on Kodak's new color reversal Ektachrome 100 ISO. I am having a hard time wrapping my head around a couple of things: When exposing for cinema film how does the shutter angle relate to frame rate? This also brings up the Bolex shutter angle issue. The shutter angle on a Rex 5 is 130/133 degrees. I'm currently borrowing a friend's light meter- Sekonic L308-B. Not ideal for cine but it's all I have right now. How do I correctly set it up to take a proper reading? Specifically, do I set the light meter to calculate for a 24fps frame rate OR am I setting it to one of the classic Bolex exposure tables? 1/65 @ 24fps (page 2) I don't have the fine control of setting the shutter angle on this model so I believe it's using a 180 degree shutter angle. As an aside, what light meter would you recommend? I was looking at the L398A. I've read conflicting things on these forums and others about RX lenses. Some say the RX lenses DO correct for the 25% prism light loss, while others do not. What is the correct answer? If I am using RX lenses do I need to account for the extra light loss? Any other advice on shooting with a reflex Bolex? Or analog film in general? I know this is a lot of questions but I appreciate anyone taking the time to help point me in the right direction. Thank you for your time, Adam

Thanks Dom! You were 100% right! Didn't realize it pulled out before sliding down. Thanks for sharing the manual, I'll have a look.

Hello, I recently purchased a Rex 5 Bolex. Everything seems to be running well and accordingly but I am not able to change the shutter. It is currently on the sitting on the red line but will not move down if I try to. I do not want to force it. Am I doing something wrong or is there a defect in the shutter? Thanks, Adam