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Raymond Zananiri

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About Raymond Zananiri

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    Las Vegas NV

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  1. Really lovely. I noticed the scan is far superior to scans of other videos you have on Vimeo from 2 or 3 years ago. Could you shed some light on the difference?
  2. Is the c mount the second, top mount? My npr has a PL mount and a c mount on the revolving turret. The c mount is very close to the knob that turns the turret. It does not allow any adapters for slr lenses to fit. For instance, my Nikkor to c mount adapter could not fit. Beware of that.
  3. The camera came with two m42 mounts. One mounted and one spare. I replaced the one that was already mounted with the spare one because its threads were rough. I think I replaced the one made for s16 with the 16mm one. I'll have to switch them back. Thank you for telling me.
  4. Thanks so much guys. Will try your method Gregory.
  5. Now I'm very curious to know what that is, but I'm still confused. Flicker usually implies a shift in luminance. Something becomes more or less bright from frame to frame. Is that what you mean? Or, is it a change is place? Something moves abruptly from frame to frame. The Meteor lens does not cover s16 on the wide end so I had to shoot higher than 40mm or 50mm handheld. Maybe that is it?
  6. Thanks for the help Simon. Isn't there a chance that the ground glass might not be seated correctly? Or I shouldn't worry about that? Is that a problem that is very rare with film cameras?
  7. Wow. I'm stuck with that for now I guess. I was thinking about shooting a slanted tape measure and focus by eye on 39" for example and then check the developed film to see what number actually came in focus. But that is not easy with wide lens. Even wide open a whole bunch of number will be in focus. This is for a Beaulieu R16. It's not a rotating shutter.
  8. You mean the orange flicker in the beginning of each shot? That is the camera. Something is leaking light but it only happens in the beginning of each shot (the film gets exposed to light when it's not moving I think). Because all the shots are so short it seems very frequent but it only happens once per shot. I think the K3 has this problem.
  9. Sorry if this topic has been discussed before. I couldn't find anything on it with my limited search skills. I know there is a method, for film cameras, to verify accurate focus. In the sense that, if the image is in focus in the viewfinder, it would be in focus on the film plane. Is there such a test, and how to conduct it?
  10. I did a test on a 100' roll of 50D for a K3 I am selling. It was processed and scanned at Cinelab on Xena hdr at 4K. It is posted on Youtube at 4K here. All handheld though, so pretty shaky.
  11. That's what I suspected. So it's an aesthetic choice in that case. I see the colors with 200T (shot in daylight) being a little more "muted" and less "in your face" as opposed to the 50D or 250D would render. Right?
  12. Topaz Labs has a very good product for that: https://www.topazlabs.com/
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