Sean Fisher

Thanks Satsuki I'm most likely going the mish-mash route initially. Also, I'm not doing pro DP work either. I shoot experimental 16mm and now branching into 35. So I feel like I have it easier when it comes to incorporating quirks. That said, I'd eventually like to get nice set. I've been toying with the idea of picking up some of the first gen sony primes (if they remain at a cheap enough price to justify it). Even though the build quality is not great, they might be a compromise for decent image quality and a lens that operates like a cinema lens. Only for under a certain price point. Admittedly, I have to learn more about the Lomos in general.

Thanks Phillip. That's very helpful to know. May I ask what lenses you are using? I'm looking at some Flektogons right now.

Does anyone have any experience with using newer lenses (DZO Vespids, Sigmas, Rokinon Xeen, etc) with a PL converted 2C? I'm wondering if the flanges on these lenses would hit the rotating mirror shutter. I'd also be interested in any info anyone has about stills lens adapters (like the Ironglass M42 - PL). Would you run into the same issue with the shutter? Basically open for any discussion about lens options for PL converted 2Cs.

Also interested to see how this turns out.

Thanks John and Robert. I'm going to give it a whirl and see what happens. Robert, I intend to process at Cinelab, so I will (if I may) be in touch with you directly as I'm wrapping up.

Kodak seems to differ: "You can use sodium-vapor lamps with a KODAK No. 13 Safelight Filter / dark yellow in safelights providing general darkroom illumination. The filtered sodium-vapor lamp provides the best visual efficiency with the least visual effect on the film. If you are using a low-wattage tungsten bulb for task-lighting, filter it with a KODAK 13 Safelight Filter / dark yellow. You can use amber Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) (590 nm peak wavelength) for minimal task or path lighting; however, do not use them for prolonged or general darkroom illumination." https://www.kodak.com/uploadedfiles/motion/2383_ti2397.pdf

I'm doing some experimenting with DIY hand contact printing on color print stock. I see that Kodak lists a "low-wattage bulb with No.13 filter." In your experience, is this adequate for a DIY setup (rewinds bi-packed through a sync block) or is this a recipe for fog? Any past experience handling 2383 or recommendations would be welcome. Thanks!

Wild or constant speed?

It is. I can send pictures. Just PM your address.

Still available. Dropped to $1000.

It is. I can send pictures at the end of the day today. Just PM me if you want me to send via email.

I have an Arri 2C with BNCR hard mount in good condition for sale ($1100). I've done a scratch test with the 400ft mag with great results. Message me for photos and details (photo posted here in a bit). Arri 2C w/BNCR mount variable speed motor 400ft mag 200ft mag Arri power cable

I have also had a hard time finding good options for BNCR mount adapters. BNCR lenses are out of my price range. The Arri Standard/B mount adapters sit too deep in the mount which makes f-stop adjustment and focusing awkward. It seems like the flange focal distance of the BNCR makes adapting lenses (other than some medium format lenses) difficult. I've also been considering changing the hard front to PL, but aside from Les, I'm not sure who still does that. I need to check and see if Du-All Camera in NYC still offers that. Any advice/ info/ or suggestions that other people may have would be welcome.