Sean Fisher

Hey Phillip, I'm hoping to locate a 2c anamorphic door, so I am wondering if you were able to figure the issue out.

I got a TS to PL mount adapter from him over the summer. It took a little bit to get a hold of him, but once I did, he put the adapter together and sent it out, smooth sailing.

Looking forward to seeing these.

Thanks Heikki! To be fair, it hasn't been an extremely long time of no response, but longer than in the past. I was actually afraid that something happened to him or he had decided to retire. I'll see if I can get in touch.

Hi Everyone, I'm looking to get a TS to PL mount adapter. I wrote to Les, but haven't heard back. Does anyone know if there are any other places that offer these, or if Les is just temporarily way?

Thanks Satsuki I'm most likely going the mish-mash route initially. Also, I'm not doing pro DP work either. I shoot experimental 16mm and now branching into 35. So I feel like I have it easier when it comes to incorporating quirks. That said, I'd eventually like to get nice set. I've been toying with the idea of picking up some of the first gen sony primes (if they remain at a cheap enough price to justify it). Even though the build quality is not great, they might be a compromise for decent image quality and a lens that operates like a cinema lens. Only for under a certain price point. Admittedly, I have to learn more about the Lomos in general.

Thanks Phillip. That's very helpful to know. May I ask what lenses you are using? I'm looking at some Flektogons right now.

Does anyone have any experience with using newer lenses (DZO Vespids, Sigmas, Rokinon Xeen, etc) with a PL converted 2C? I'm wondering if the flanges on these lenses would hit the rotating mirror shutter. I'd also be interested in any info anyone has about stills lens adapters (like the Ironglass M42 - PL). Would you run into the same issue with the shutter? Basically open for any discussion about lens options for PL converted 2Cs.

Also interested to see how this turns out.

Thanks John and Robert. I'm going to give it a whirl and see what happens. Robert, I intend to process at Cinelab, so I will (if I may) be in touch with you directly as I'm wrapping up.

Kodak seems to differ: "You can use sodium-vapor lamps with a KODAK No. 13 Safelight Filter / dark yellow in safelights providing general darkroom illumination. The filtered sodium-vapor lamp provides the best visual efficiency with the least visual effect on the film. If you are using a low-wattage tungsten bulb for task-lighting, filter it with a KODAK 13 Safelight Filter / dark yellow. You can use amber Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) (590 nm peak wavelength) for minimal task or path lighting; however, do not use them for prolonged or general darkroom illumination." https://www.kodak.com/uploadedfiles/motion/2383_ti2397.pdf

I'm doing some experimenting with DIY hand contact printing on color print stock. I see that Kodak lists a "low-wattage bulb with No.13 filter." In your experience, is this adequate for a DIY setup (rewinds bi-packed through a sync block) or is this a recipe for fog? Any past experience handling 2383 or recommendations would be welcome. Thanks!

Wild or constant speed?

It is. I can send pictures. Just PM your address.

Still available. Dropped to $1000.