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Mateusz Czopek

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  • Occupation
    Cinematographer
  • Location
    Boise, ID

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  1. Thanks everyone for the responses, unfortunately our production got cancelled for the time being, but I'll be sure to keep all of this in mind next time!
  2. Hey all, I'm shooting a short film coming up in September, and one scene involves two of the characters fighting roughly in a river. The river that we'll be at is fairly still, next to a dam. The director wants to do most of the fight handheld and close to the action. I planned on having a covering over the camera and having a spotter with me in the river to make sure I don't fall over, but was wondering if anyone had any other advice for shooting close to water with handheld? I'm mainly worried about taking a stumble and dropping everything into the water...
  3. I'm not super experienced, but looks to me that in the reference photo the windows with the curtains are blown out - they're just hidden behind the curtains. Maybe getting longer curtains in that location would help cover up the overexposed windows? Otherwise, I would recommend either gelling the window(s) that you need to see through. The nice thing about lights is that they can be scrimmed or dimmed (if LEDs). The reference photo also looks like it's slightly underexposed, which will probably help to counteract the light. It also depends what time of day you're shooting and which way the windows are facing, this almost seems like a setup that could be done night for day if you have enough lights. Knowing what time of day you're going to be shooting and planning it as best as you can to shoot the scene when the sun is in your favor will help a lot.
  4. What time of day are you shooting outside? Are you shooting with actual noon sunlight or at some other part of the day? Noon sunlight is very harsh and top down on people, so you'd need a big light like the 20k that David mentioned in order to replicate sunlight. Often times silks and other diffusions are used to soften the sunlight at noon, but if you're going for the harsh sunlight look, probably the best thing you can do is shoot at noon if you can and perhaps bring some light control like bounces or nets to help shape the light the best you can. At least from my experience this would be best if you can't afford a bigger light.
  5. Thanks David and all for your help. Still wrapping my head around it, but I appreciate all the wisdom!
  6. Thanks for the explanation, Stephen. So the lower ISO is more for me to "overexpose" the image and thereby utilize more of the higher end of the dynamic range rather than actually changing exposure with it? I would think that the cleaner image would come from the lower ISO, and have less noise in the shadows because of that, but if I'm shooting in LOG, changing the ISO won't matter? So then I have to overexpose by a stop or so in order to get a cleaner image? I wasn't aware that changing the ISO didn't matter in LOG, thanks for sharing your knowledge!
  7. Sorry for the ignorance, but trying to wrap my brain around this still. Do you mean overexpose by a stop based on your lower ISO (400 for example) or for your 800 ISO? So overexpose the 400 so it's essentially the same as your 800, but with cleaner shadows because of the lower ISO? So say you're shooting a scene with a single light, and want clean shadows. The light reads a T/8 at 800, so a T/4 at 400, so you would want to be at a T/2? Have I got that right?
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