Valentin Iraola

Awesome, thanks soo much for the info!

That’s good to know! So maybe I could spot meter the midtones and see what I can get. If it’s a very bright scene, with a reflective building for example, exposing for the midtones, Ektachrome will probably easily blow out the highlights no?

Hello everyone, a super 8 newbie here in Argentina. I'm writing because I've been shooting super 8 for the last 2 years, only negative film and i'm wanting to shoot some Ektachrome but I'm kinda afraid of how to expose properly. I have a Minolta XL-Sound 64. When I shoot negative film, I usually spot meter (with camera with calibrated meter) to the shadows and sometimes more towards the mid tones. But I know that Ektachrome does not forgive you any extra stop/s over or underexposed. I thought of three ways of exposing Ektachrome correctly (please correct me if i'm wrong): - Simply spot metering the highlights. - Spot metering the highlights and also the dark tones, and get an average exposure. (Is Ansel Adams Zone System good to know for exposing reversal film?) - Matrix metering of the full scene I also have a 18% grey card, I don't know if that would be helpful. I'm going on vacations to a place where usually it's very sunny (usually no clouds at all) and I thought Ektachrome should be my best option for these sunny days. Thank you very much!

The films stocks are 50D (auto expose) and 200T (manual expose).

Hello, how's everyone? I was wondering if anyone could tell why on most of my super 8 footage, there's white lines and dots moving like if it was hair or dust on my film? I'm 100% sure that I always blow off with plenty of aire the cartridge, the gate and also the lens? Is there anyway to prevent these dots and lines or to fix in post? My camera is a Minolta XL-Soud 64 complety refurbished and working perfectly. Thank you very much!

Awesome man, thanks very much for the info!

With that you mean, I only have to calculate factor in light loss when: manual exposing no? Sorry of too many questions but i'm super new to super 8 haha.

Hi Stewart, thank you very much! Yep, I've heard that it's a great camera. Ohh that's nice, yeah I'm going to make a long route trip so I needed a film stock to auto exposure with just pushing the button (because I won't be able to meter while I travel) and I was thinking in Vision 3 50D or Ekta 100D. So i'm gonna get pretty decent results if a auto expose an Ekta 100D for example? At what speed will my camera shoot it? I'm also thinking in shooting a Vision 3 500T (once we get to destiny) but I don't know at what film speed to shoot it. I wan't to be able to shoot it with auto exposure, but also try some manual exposure sometimes. I saw a guy who shot a 500T at 160T at daylight (don't know if in auto or manual), and I feel in love with the footage (look for Nick Collingwood post) . So I was wondering if I could just pop-in a 500T and auto exposure sometimes and manual too. If that's posible with autoexposure of my camera (Minolta XL-Sound 64), at what ISO will my camera expose it?

Hello, I bought a serviced Minolta XL-Sound 64 and I've been reading the manual but there are somethings that I don't understand. I'm new to manual exposure on super 8 so, this are my questions: • The manual says: Film usable: Super 8 cartridges of sound or silent Outdoor - Indoor Type A Color (or Black-and-White) film having daylight film-speed ratings of 25 ASA or 100... Does that mean that I can auto expose an Ektachrome 100D for example? Or I have to manual expose only? What film stock can I shoot on auto exposure? • If there is any film stock I have to expose manually, how many stop/s more (because of light loss from viewfinder prism) should I set my external meter for the reading? • Is it soo true that I shouldn't use my internal 85 filter, and use an external one screwed on the lens?

Yes, I also tried to move the wheel in the right direction and nothing… Really i don’t know what could of hapened

Today I finished confirming that Ektachrome 100D (Super 8 ), is not a film to shoot until at least 2 years have passed, that no one has complained that the film got stuck. After a unique weekend shooting the ektachrome, the counter on my camera (Canon Auto Zoom 518SV) tells me that the entire film had already been exposed. Excited about everything I thought I had filmed, I take out the cartridge and see that it doesn't say "exposed", as it normally should. Just then, the various comments I had read about this emulsion in particular and the flaws with which it had been coming out of the factory fell into my head. I had never given it much thought because I had also read positive comments, so the only thing left for me was to try it myself and see how it goes. After noticing this, I re-marked it with a marker and the film didn't move, I tried moving it slowly with my fingers and it didn't move, I tried moving it hard with my fingers and it didn't move either. So I came to the conclusion that more cartridges are coming out of the factory with faults than in good condition. The first cartridge (Kodak Vision 3 50D) that I had shot, new camera, I accepted that something could go wrong because I was testing the camera (which at first glance looked in excellent condition). I also had problems (I didn't know about the care of the cartridges and made some mistakes) and the film was exposed only 1m of the 3m and cents at 18fps that should last. So I said, I'll take care of the next cartridge (Ektachrome) like gold, that's how it was, but what happened happened. What I have also read is that this camera in particular, over time the motor expands and that it is also quite weak (motor), perhaps it is one of the reasons that neither of the 2 cartridges exposed the entire film? The question that remains for me is whether to take my camera to do a service or directly buy a fully conditioned one with a service already done, and perhaps one with a strong motor to avoid that in the future, when I dare again to try to shoot an Ekta, don't be a problem. I don't want to make a discharge about Ektachrome, but more than anything to know what you guys think, to know your experiences and everything in general. Today I ended the day wanting to just put the camera back in its box on top of a shelf until the urge to shoot comes back. The truth is that I started 1 year ago with super 8 and I'm not an expert, but I do know that there are some in this group, so correct me if I'm wrong about something. Delighted to read your opinions on this, thank you very much and sorry for so much delirium.

I still can’t believe why Kodak keeps making f*cked up ektachrome 100D cartridges, today I thought i’ve finished my cartridge of super 8 on my trip, and it resulted that it got stuck, i really can’t believe it… The first time I shot my first cartridge I knew something bad could happen because I was testing my camera (Canon Auto Zoom 518 SV), but results that my camera is in excelent conditions and works perfect. We will never know until 5 years go on with no one complaining about ektachrome super 8, when Kodak finally starts to make decent and fully funcional cartridges. It’s so sad to have spent for the 2nd time so much money on a cartridge, but it’s more sad that once again, I lost the movie I tried to film of my unique trip with my friends… I’m seriously thinking in stop trying to film super 8 and just leave my camera on my shelf… Sorry for the bad word, but i’m very disappointed…

@Mark Dunn should I use it? I'm thinking it could prevent some lens flare but, is it so important to use on super 8? Or just taste?

When I bought my super 8, it came with all the case candy and stuff etc etc, but I never found out what this is? Can It be a lens hood but for super 8 camera? What is it used for?

Hello everybody, writing from Argentina. This weekend i'm pretending to shoot my first Ektachrome 100D super 8 cartridge on my Canon Auto Zoom 518 SV, i've been hearing that many cartridges from the last years and now days, are coming with factory failures (such as: film is getting stuck and not moving in cartridge). Wanted to know if anybody had the same problem or any issues with this type of emulsion. Heard that they used to sell like these metal plates to put on the cartridge to prevent film getting stucked but really I don't know if this problem is true and if it is, if the solution is also true. Think I read also that you can oil (with a specific liquid) the cartridge film part, so It can help that the film move correctly. Any info related to this or tips for shooting Ektachrome 100D or any emulsion, would help me a lot. Thanks