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I am getting yellow lines on my film, I checked the wheels they seem fine they spin, is it the gate ? is it because i shot in expired film ? i hate it i shoot a 400ft roll and the yellow line is present in the whole film. i wanna know whats wrong with my CP-16r, has anyone experienced with this problem before? video:

Hey everyone, I wanted to see if anyone could help me out. I wanted to know if anyone could recommend the best export settings from Adobe Media Encoder for a 16mm scan. I am fine with grain, in fact I love it. I have a project thats completely hand processed kodak 7222, and the results are quite grainy. The problem I have is that when I export the h.264 file for web, the grain just becomes ugly blotches and pixels. I've tried for many hours to get the best export, including raising my bit rate and everything. I know there must be a good method, because i've seen film scans that have quite a bit of grain on the web, but the detail is preserved, so i'm completely at a loss. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Derick

I have never dealt with Cinelab before. I was mainly interested in their Xena 2k scans as they are better at reading underexposure and I was running and gunning at night and mainly just using a beater handheld cam I acquired and was more of a camera/scratch test and comparing scans to a certain degree. I sent in 100' of 7219 to be processed and scanned at 2k thinking this would cost around $70. I initially selected DPX but the decided ProRes would be more than fine. I tried to call and emailed Robert as soon as it went out and said I didn't update the order form to ProRes my apologies. There is no drive. I would just like an upload to Dropbox in ProRes and because I am not particularly attached to the negatives, I didn't include return shipping. Days later no response. Filled out their order form which said nothing about minimums on it and they pricing sheets are somewhat unclear and very scattered. I didn't think twice about it and figured if they had a problem they would call or reach out. I woke up this am to $161 charge. Thinking this was a mistake I reached out with an email with my form attached and also in line with the previous emails I sent before. This was the response I got: HI Charges were: $115 min charge for process and a 2K scan 2.00 for DPX frames $30 for a thumb drive for DPX frames (we don't upload DPX) $14 for UPS shipping. I can change that to ProRes and do an upload which will save $32 So 100' of 7219 cost me $161 because they never saw the email that I sent and also just started assuming things and billed me for items and services that I never was asked about. I understand that my order form was initially filled out incorrect but I tried to call and email to no avail. This honestly could have just been taken care of with a phone call or email to clarify, especially if there is no drive, no request for a drive to be purchased and at least have this brought to my attention. I talked to a few other DPs and asked them what they thought. "Shady as hell" seemed to be the general consensus.

Hey Everyone, I'm looking for a 16mm film synchronizer, if anyone has one they would be willing to part with cheaply. I don't need anything fancy, and a 2 bank is fine. Just need something that works. Let me know if anyone has one they would be willing to get rid of. Best, Derick

Hey there looking to buy a complete Arriflex 16mm package, have been looking at the Arriflex 16SR1-3 series. Must be willing to ship to Sydney, Australia. Cheers Sam

Hi friends. I have an Arriflex 16BL with tobin TXM-15 sync that I tried to use today. Its worked many a times before in the past. Today I hit the button to shoot; and nothing happens. What the hell? I take the mag off to see if it was jammed or something; and more smoke than cheech and Chongs car came wafting out of the gear area. Gosh darn it. I take the motor housing off and I see this- 5amp blown fuse. Okay but where was the smoke coming from?? My inching knob is broken as well. Any suggestions? I have all the pieces. The motor still turns by hand, have yet to get the replacement DC fuse. Questions now 1. The motor shows 9,5V motor. I have a 12v 7.5mah battery. Direct leads to a power cable, to Tobin system. Am I over-powering the camera with this battery? Or does the tobin system have some sort of conversion from 12v to 9.5v for the motor? 2. What do you think was the cause of the smoking? Upon inspection of what I could disassemble, I see no melted resistors or plastic or wires, etc. see pictures. 3. Suggestions on replacement of the inching knob? **** pictures to come****

Hi, I'm a filmmaker from Switzerland, I have 7 unopened cans of Kodak Vision 250T and 7 cans of Fuji Reala 500D left over from my grad film project in 2004. Both are 16mm single perf, 122m (400ft). Stored in freezer since. Current condition unknown. Selling for 30 swiss franks per can (=30 USD). Serious buyers only please! Online bank transfer in advance. Minimum order: 3 cans. Shipping to USA costs ca. 40-80 USD, depending on weight. Europe is less. I will be travelling to the UK and US in Feb/March, could possibly bring stock personally (not sure about x-rays?). Best regards Bernie

Hi, I was wondering whether anyone knows a good place to buy 2 inch plastic film cores for an Arri SR2? I can only see a few for sale on eBay with quite high shipping prices. Quite a lot to pay for something that will be sent off to the lab. Also, could anyone enlighten me to the different uses of 2 inch vs 3 inch film cores? are 2 inch to hold 100' rolls and 3 inch for 400'? Many thanks!

In my opinion the look of 16mm Kodak film is the most unique look in movies......with DCP projection obviously.....and thus I would call it THE filmic look bar none. ....digital is nowhere near looking like 16mm as opposed to digital being used alongside 35mm in many films and more successfully copied by Arri Alexas etc with all the subsequent manipulation in post. I read it all the time in American Cinematographer how DPs want to mimic film look etc when not allowed to use film for whatever budget reasons etc. For fun I watch movies and determine what they were shot on checking IMDB for confirmation. To me Arri Alexa stuff all looks the same (big generalisation but I'm sure u know what I mean) and 35mm stands out to me with colour palette mainly plus the way highlights look....65mm I can't tell the difference in the small cinema screens where I come from and less still on my TV.....but 16mm screams out at me as unique and unmatched no matter how big or small the screen. Don't pick out my generalisations and argue them but rather the spirit of the debate I am hoping to start.....

"The number of ads shot on film and processed at Cinelab doubled in 2018 to around 350, and there was an increase in pop promos to 50-plus, many shot on Super 8 and Super 16 as well as 35mm." https://www.broadcastnow.co.uk/tech/film-stages-digital-fightback/5135915.article#.XEHdhn_xPh0.twitter So film is far from dead.

Hey All, I'm looking for a Bolex H16 SBM in good condition. These seem to have become quite rare and are sold on ebay for ridiculous prices above the 3000$ mark. So if any of you can offer me a good deal for one, I'd be very happy. I'm located in Germany and willing to pay for shipping. Thank you!

Im planning on shooting a double feature sometime soon on 16mm and I was wondering what the best film stock is for emulating the colors you see in movies like The Texas Chainsaw Massacre, The Evil Dead, Etc.

Hi I'm a student in Scotland. I'm looking to partly 3d print and machine my own super 16mm camera, preferably silent. I have the machinery and materials its mainly about documentation and info, there doesn't seem to be too much of it out there. The main problem I can see just now is the view finder, everything should be alright to figure. Can't wait to hear back. Finlay

Selling my pride and joy. I upgraded cameras and need to part with this one. I'm just going to copy and paste the ebay description and a link. Included: -Arri SR2 with super 16 modification -Gold mount piggy-back adapter with working D tap -3x Batteries -4x mags -Side handle (not working) -1x Dual Charger -Power/ misc cables -Arri T Bar -electric eyepiece warmer -Cinematography Electronics SR speed controller. 2-75 fps -extra fuse -start/stop cable -niner splitter box Please see listing for more details and photos https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arri-SR2-Super-16mm-Camera-Package-Fully-Functional/223314481085

I'll be shooting a short hopefully this autumn or winter. It takes place in a forest and I want to shoot it in natural light. But because of the weather these upcoming months, I've started to wonder if I'm actually able to do so. For so far, I'll be using my only lens, a zoom lens which its widest aperture is f 3.8. And a 0.6 ND filter, because I love the DOF touch it gives. I'll be shooting on Vision 3 7222. What can I do to avoid using a lighting setup?

Hello Everyone, I'm back from South America and need to sell my Arriflex 16SR camera with the Arri Talbot sound blimp by December 20th. Shipping is FREE. I can only ship to the lower 48 states. Shipping will be done via Amtrak (so you must be close to an Amtrak station or willing to travel to the closest one). Amtrak is a great, safe way to ship heavy items. You can pay by credit card or Paypal through Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/listing/195118392/arriflex-16mm-film-camera-arri-sound Please feel free to ask me if you have any questions about any of these items and I will answer as best I can. There are no shipping costs for local pickup in Valrico, Florida. Arriflex 16SR + Accessories It works fine and it works great with the blimp below. I bought this used from a dealer. The viewfinder is clear with no yellowing. The camera runs smoothly. 1 - Arriflex 16SR 16mm motion picture camera 1 - Eyepiece with eye cup 2 - 400' cartridges 1 - Battery Adapter 1 - Power cable 1 - Power adapter for plugging the camera into an outlet, NO LENSES ARE INCLUDED. ARRI BAYONET MOUNT. THIS IS NOT A SUPER 16 CAMERA. Arri Talbot SR Sound Blimp 1 - Arri Talbot SR Sound Blimp with connector cables inside I'm selling a very unique Arri Talbot Sound Blimp for the Arriflex 16SR camera. It reduces the noise level to absolute ZERO! When the camera is inside, you plug in the wires and you are able to completely control the camera from the buttons on the outside of the blimp. The blimp also has rails on the front. I've never seen one of these anywhere else. It's extremely heavy so you'll have to use it on a heavy duty tripod. These two items are being sold together. You can view and buy on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/listing/195118392/arriflex-16mm-film-camera-arri-sound

I tested Vitafilm film treatment to see what curative effects it has, if any, on film decomposing with vinegar syndrome. films tested: Kodachrome B&W stock Test results: https://danieldteolijrarchivalcollection.wordpress.com/2018/11/25/test-results-for-vitafilm-treatment-of-vinegar-syndrome-16mm-films/ Notice: Weblink is safe for work. Website is not safe for work. If you are offended by adult topics do not wander from the link and you will be fine.

I recently got an old CP-16A and am trying to restore it to working condition however it has one problem. When I plug it in to ac and run it nothing happens. If I leave the run button on for several minutes it will eventually start to run but very slowly. After a few more minutes it will start to run faster but never reaches sync speed (the red light is always on). If at any point I turn the run switch off the process starts back from the beginning. The power supply is good, it's giving off 20 vdc at 3 amps and I tested the camera with another power supply alligator clipped to the battery terminals and got the same results. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm trying to repair this myself without having to send it in. I'll link a video where you can see the speed ramping up and down on it's own. At the point I'd taken the video the camera had been powered on about 10 minutes.

I've been trying to set up my gmt-s to drive a smart slate. the Origin C+ is definitely feeding data to it (show ID, start TC etc), however I've noticed that the FPS is definitely controlled by the tiny dial inside the GMT-S (see attached photo). Does anyone have a diagram or know what dial settings = what base timecode FPS?

Does anybody happen to know where I might be able to find a working 400' magazine for an Eclair ACL II? I haven't been able to really find any on ebay recently. Thanks!

Managed to get a couple rolls developed, this being the first time I've shot 16mm. There is some grading, any tips are greatly appreciated!

Hello, I'm looking for a super16 lens that would be equivalent to 35mm in 35 format. Preferably I would want either an Optar Illumina or Zeiss 16mm since I have other Illumina lenses and it would match well. I would be open to something a little wider too like a 12mm. If there are no sellers, does anyone know a good source to buy such lenses?

I've had a lot of fun with this camera, but would like to upgrade to a Bolex after discussion on this forum. Up on ebay at the moment: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273566611007 For examples of footage from this camera see http://www.vimeo.com/16mmlondon (Not all clips are from this camera, but are clearly described if they are) PM me if interested as I will giver preference to people on this forum. Cheers Glen

I currently have a Krasnogorsk K3 (converted to S16) and a Canon Scoopic 16M. I've used both several times over the last couple of years and have learned a lot with them. I've managed to get some good results, however, although there are things about both that I like, they each have things about them that I dislike. K3 + Rugged, cheap, large choice of M42 lenses available, Super 16, stable speed control, compact, reflex - Wind up, tricky to load, light leaks, Standard Meteor lens 'soft' (i.e slightly out of focus) at widest settings, unstable registration, reliability issues 16M + Easy to load and use, electric, affordable (but not cheap), reliable, good registration, reflex (but dim in low light), good macro, not too bulky, - Fixed lens - soft at widest setting, speed noticeably unstable (probably fault with my camera), dim reflex at higher f stop The common problem with getting sharp images with wide angle views is the biggest problem I have with these. So, I'm still looking for my 'perfect' camera. I'd like a hand held, reflex, electric camera with changeable lenses. Hopefully easy/quick to load. Super 16 preferred, but not essential. I'm also on a limited budget, maximum £1500 I guess. Two possibilities I can think of are: Beaulieu R16 and Bolex EBM (£££?) I nearly got a R16 with an (Angineux?) motorised lens, but I was put off the motorised lens due to reliability and dislike of controlling lenses with motors rather than manually. I don't know much about either of those, would they be better choices or do they have their own issues that cause user's problems? Have I missed other possible options that may be suitable? Thanks for any help you can give.

Hello Everyone, Well last year I was selling a bunch of gear before moving to South America. Some of it never sold and I'm back in the States for a short visit and still need to go ahead and try to get rid of it instead of letting it sit in my storage unit. I need to have all this sold before May 12th. I've tried to price them as low as I can to get rid of them quickly. There is some wiggle room for some of the more expensive items. Reasonable deals can be made if buying several items. There are no shipping costs for local pickup in Valrico, Florida. Arriflex 16SR + Accessories - $800 + $50 shipping It works fine and it works great with the blimp below. I bought this used from a dealer. The viewfinder is clear with no yellowing. The camera runs smoothly. 1 - Arriflex 16SR 16mm motion picture camera 1 - Eyepiece with eye cup 2 - 400' cartridges 1 - Battery Adapter 1 - Power cable 1 - Power adapter for plugging the camera into an outlet, NO LENSES ARE INCLUDED. ARRI BAYONET MOUNT. THIS IS NOT A SUPER 16 CAMERA. Arri Talbot SR Sound Blimp - $400 + $50 shipping 1 - Arri Talbot SR Sound Blimp with connector cables inside I'm selling a very unique Arri Talbot Sound Blimp for the Arriflex 16SR camera. It reduces the noise level to absolute ZERO! When the camera is inside, you plug in the wires and you are able to completely control the camera from the buttons on the outside of the blimp. The blimp also has rails on the front. I've never seen one of these anywhere else. It's extremely heavy so you'll have to use it on a heavy duty tripod. If you want to buy the Arriflex SR16 and the Sound Blimp together - $1000 + $100 shipping https://www.etsy.com/listing/195118392/arriflex-16mm-film-camera-sale-arri I also have some items for the Bolex Rex5 & Rex4: Bolex Rex 5 Film Magazines - $250 + $40 for shipping You can own two film magazines for your Bolex Rex 5 including a leather sound cover and vintage carrying case today! These film magazines allow you to use 400' rolls of 16mm film with your Bolex Rex 5. They are in good condition and work great. *Note the grey & color cards and scrims in the pictures are not included. https://www.etsy.com/listing/287265553/bolex-film-magazines-sale-16mm-film Sound Blimp for a Bolex Rex 4 - $200 + $40 shipping You can own a custom made sound blimp for your Bolex Rex 4 today! It reduces the noise made by the Rex 4 to near zero. There is a non-crystal sync motor inside that works. Only a Bolex Rex 4 will fit inside this housing. A replacement rubber collar is needed for the power cable to seal it in the opening. Front glass is cracked (not shown in the photos) and will need to be replaced. https://www.etsy.com/listing/273635904/bolex-sound-blimp-sale-custom-16mm-film Shipping costs listed are for buyers in the lower 48 states. I know many of you may be in other countries and as long as we can work out shipping costs, I will ship to most counties if using Etsy to pay. You must cover the full cost of shipping. If in doubt, please ask. Thanks. Shipping for heavy items will be done via Amtrak: Amtrak is a great, safe way to ship heavy items. You can pay by credit card or Paypal through Etsy. If you don't want to pay through Etsy, and you want the item(s) shipped to one of the lower 48 states, I can accept payments via Stripe as well. Billing and shipping addresses must be the same. Please feel free to ask me if you have any questions about any of these items and I will answer as best I can.