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  1. 1.how big of a space could I light with 2 2.5k hmis and 2 1.2k hmis? I found 2 lights that are equivalent to those and I'm curious how well it would work in terms of versatility for lighting spaces with top light for ambience and hard ba, this would be done in tandem with practicals, speaking of which. 2. For a practicals heavy lighting setup, how many 4 foot tubes like astera titans, how many light bulbs like astera nyx, and how many feet of flexible strip like litegear literibbon xq chroma cine five should I have in my kit to light a large room or space that would use florescent tubes or light bulbs or flexible light? And before you say I should just rent for the project or go to a home depot, 1, the rental houses in my area don't have everything I need, and 2, I'm willing to bet that your average home depot or whatever would have crmx compatible RGB led lights, or if so, in what I want. Also, if you can't give me an answer for this, could you tell me the average size of a club, an office, and the most amount of light bulbs you've seen in a place? 3. Can I use a fabric for a larger frame like a 8x8 and use it on a smaller frame like a 6x6 or 4x4 by folding it? 4. Can I get around the issue of a parabolic softbox not being an inward lit device by using muslin on the front? The main issue I know of on a parabolic softbox is the light is 1. Not inward facing, and 2, is not focusable, I suppose you could use a fresnel to solve the focus issue but I know one of the things that makes the parabolic softbox kinda pointless is the it's usually not lit inwards, considering muslin not only diffuses but bounces (the entire point of the cove light), could I use that instead of magic cloth and have at least some of the light bounce inwards onto the reflector part and would we then have the parabolic softbox that is actually useful? Could this apply to any softbox with a silver reflector like a lantern?
  2. Hi Folks, I got a Desisti 1200/2500 hmi head and ballast, it had a open door fault/bulb disconnect fault showing on the digital read out on the ballast. So on investigation the door open switch wasn't sprung or opening the switch, I looked inside and as expected. The spring had came of the door switch. I repaired this and plugged the lamp head in to the ballast thinking all would be well however the fault still shows up which is definitely been repaired. I wondered do I have to clear the fault in the ballast software to get it back up and running. The ballast and light are in like new condition and ran perfectly before. If anyone could shed any light on this it would be very much appreciated. Link below to video
  3. Hi, before we start, my main lighting inspirations consist the Hannibal tv series, Euphoria, and the works of David Fincher and Rina Yang for having an ambient based exposure with top or backlight, and movies such as Mandy, Suspiria (1973), Only God Forgives, and the works of Vittorio Storaro and Benoit Debie for having bold splashes and tints of color. Basically I'm trying to compile a set of gear for achieving stylized lighting of a set and my method was to mostly lean on practicals or supplemented practicals with a top light for ambience with a hard backlight. Keep in mind I have only so much power to work with as I'm putting all of this in my car with a small generator so basically I'm limited on space and power and those are my major cost factors for me as I need the space for other things as if I had all the space and power in the world I would probably just use a bunch of arrimax 18ks, Wendy lights, softsuns or God knows how many digital sputniks but I don't have that so I have to make sure with what I can do. For the film lights I would make sure that the company provided photometrics actually line up with the claims made as for equivalency and my source for verification was Arris photometric calculator as I could input distance and approximate beam angle to see what the actual equivalents are. The lights I have chosen for my kit are there to fill in roles for other equivalent lights but at lower wattages and with hopefully good light quality and not just output. And keep in mind these lights would be in near constant rotation in terms of what role they would be playing on set. Also, another factor would be how well I can rent them or resell them for which is why I'm looking at the lights here. 1x hive wasp plasma par 1000 (equivalent to an Arri m18 and considering that light is reputed to be brighter than some 2.5ks it lives up to that but it's nowhere near a 10k tungsten like once claimed at trade shows and on some sites by hive) 1x prolycht orion 675 w/ fresnel (it does seem to line up to the claim of being roughly equivalent to a 5k tungsten if just below it and it lines up with an Arri m8 so I'm satisfied). These would be used with the lightbridge crls c100 kit 2x litepanels Gemini 1x1 hard (these didn't make equivalent claims but according to their company provided photometrics and beam angle they seem to line up with a 400w hmi like a joker with the frosted fresnel lens) Practical/other film lights 1x astera titan 8 light kit 1x astera helios 8 light kit 2x astera nyx 8 bulb kit with impact octacool fixtures 2x litegear literibbon cine five 5m And the full set of rosco Storaro gels. If there are improvements I can make on this let me know.
  4. I know it's a softbox light that uses bulbs but I would like to know the specifics of the construction of it, like how many bulbs per light for example. So if anyone could give me a rundown on what it is and required parts that would be nice.
  5. Hi! We’re shooting a studio shoot scene in a studio with a white void backdrop. The white void backdrop will be high-key and very soft like this (the 2nd photo is the actual location of the shoot): We will also shoot the reverse shot of the white backdrop which will have actors acting as crew, there will be around 8 actors. 2 main actors (director and assistant) in the front and the rest are acting as crew members at the back. While the white void backdrop is high key the director and crew area will be low key and high contrast. The director wants it to look like this: Basically he only wants the front part of this area to be well lit while the back is just dark. I’m thinking that the motivation of the light will be the “bounced” light from the white void backdrop so I’m thinking of putting a 300 watt or 200 watt led light with lantern diffuser situated from the side lighting the actors. (Other than a lantern diffuser, we have an Octabox, 12x12 butterfly diffuser, and a diffusion cloth for our options for our lighting modifier.) I might also put a backlight for the two main actors in the front for their hair light (situated close to them so it looks like it’s coming from the side, not from the very back which is supposed to be dark). I’m worried that if I put a light from the side at the actor’s level, the fall out of the light will still be strong that the back of the studio will still be well-lit or can I solve that by using flags to shape the light? Or I should just make sure the light from the 200 watt or 300 watt led light won’t be too strong so the fallout of the light reaching the back will naturally come out dark? I also have an option of rigging the light from the ceiling, angled towards the actors so the back won’t be lit as much although I’m worried that it will be obvious that it’s a top light, not light “bouncing” from the strongly lit white void area. Or instead of directly lighting the opposite side of the white void area, I'm thinking that I can also just bounce a naked strong light (will a 300watt suffice? apart from the lights that are already rigged in the white void area) onto the wall of the white void area to light the crew area. What do you think?
  6. Hi! We’re shooting a white void type scene in a studio. An example of a “white void” scene is this. It won’t be completely a “white void” as the scene will reveal that it’s shot in a studio with a white backdrop. The studio looks like this. What is a nice way to light this kind of scene? I’m thinking of lighting the studio backdrop with lights with soft boxes or lanterns from the ceiling directed below and at the back of and sides of the backdrop then 1 light each with a huge soft box situated outside the “white void” on opposite ends (for the actors). For the lights outside the white void, will a strong light with soft box be enough or a strong light with a huge diffusion cloth be better? To achieve a soft almost no contrast lighting in the scene, I know I have to fill as much as shadows as possible but will there be a risk of it looking too flat? Or should I just meter one side of the face of an actor just to make sure that one side of the face is a bit darker than the other? Honestly, I think it wouldn't be that very hard to light this given that the backdrop is already white so all of the shadows are easily filled in. But still, it's my first time to shoot and light this kind of scene and I would just like to know if there are any precautions and tips you can give me. Thank you!
  7. LiteMat 4 Hybrid LED for sale. This is the original Litemat 4, very versatile light!Includes all original accessories, including three fabric diffusers, plastic grid attachment and yokeIn very clean condition, works flawlessly. https://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/pho/d/brooklyn-litemat-hybrid-led/7443020827.html NYC pickup preferred, but I'm open to shipping at owners expense.
  8. Below is a link to stills from a recent film I worked on as DP. The film is a comedic coming-of-age type film It was shot on the Arri Alexa with Zeiss CP.2 lenses. Primarily lit with Skypanel S60s and Arrisun 1.2k HMI Let me know what you think! https://imgur.com/a/6sAQyL3
  9. This topic seems to appear in this forum every year or so but I've not quite found a definitive answer for myself. Since full on production does not seem to be coming back too soon I thought it would be a great time to think about optimizing. Some people seem to not do any diagrams at all, some jot them down crudely on a piece of paper, some use Shot Designer or some sort of drawing app (OmniGraffle and Illustrator seem to be the options of choice). For really specific setups or on big shows Vectorworks seems to be a great option. If you need to do pre-vis as well, Maxon Cinema 4D might be a great choice. I've tried most of them and it seems that there's always a tradeoff between specificity and the time it takes to create the drawing. When you go into the 3D realm, there's a steep learning curve and it feels like this should be somebody else’s job. In 2D most options seem to lack rigor; I've had gaffers ask me "What's the yellow circle with two lines?" (the symbol for female in Shot Designer). Plus, there seems to be no way to import an architectural plan or dimensional drawing of the location properly. At the moment I'm using Photoshop, for which I've created about 400 scaled assets (10cm=1m / 4"=4') based on manufacturer's dimensional drawings. It can be a bit clunky at times but it saves me a lot of guesswork in cramped locations trying to figure out if something will fit. I'm trying to figure out what people are using in what types of productions and for what reasons. I'm thinking of developing an universal Web App that bridges the gap between sketch and technical drawing. Besides neat and slightly compulsive diagram creation, I'm looking to hear what other features people might want for a 2D lighting planning app. At the moment I'm thinking of the fallowing tricks: · Open Source Database · Generates basic kit lists based on items used · Basic photometric information in SI and US Customary Units · Calculates total maximum power draw of setup for either 110V or 220V · Calculates camera field of view based on sensor size and focal length. I’m attaching a basic diagram I’ve created with my assets, I’d love to hear what everyone thinks about the style and specificity. I’d also like to hear if this a non-issue and if I’m just over-analyzing with all of this time on my hands 😊)
  10. Very Long shot: Free Silhouette Light with stand. Rank Strand folding brace strand. Fairly huge, unknown condition. Presently in the trash. You would need to get here with transport before it goes. Otherwise a great opportunity to get a lighting fixture and stand. If you get here and its gone I cant magic it back so its a matter of acting fast.
  11. I recently shot a superhero film and was looking for feedback on the lighting/camerawork When filming, I was going for the style of something like "The Boys" more of a gritty look. Let me know if you think it works or if there's anything that could've made it better. https://imgur.com/a/xKSn29I Specs for those interested: Lit with: Arri Skypanels s60-c Arrisun 1.2K 8x8 Silk Frame Shot on: RED Weapon 8K
  12. I will be shooting some scenes in a living room with frosted windows. When I checked how the living room looks like with my camera, the frosted windows result in overblown highlights. The director wants the scene to look like this: I plan to light the room from lights outside through the windows and to lessen the brightness of the frosted windows I'm thinking of putting ND gels over them but I'm not sure if that will help because I will still be lighting through them. Is there a better solution for this? Should I just lessen the overall exposure of the scene with the camera and compensate with another light inside the room (which I will still be adding anyway). I hope my questions make sense. Thank you in advance 🙂
  13. Hi, I just have a question about the flourescent-type lights used in the underground bunker scene in Parasite. They give off this greenish cast or tint in the shot and I’m wondering if that’s the color of the lamp itself or was it given a greenish cast by adjusting the color temperature in camera or was it given that color through color grading? I plan to incorporate these type of lighting as accents for a small hideout room scene for a short film. The room is going to be lit through a window (a window with a black screen, not glass) and exhaust fan. I plan to haze it with a haze machine to make it look dusty and dingy and to make the light rays from the light outside pop. That’s why I’m hoping I could get the green effect from the light itself so the color temp of the practical light is distinct from the light rays of the “sunset light” outside which is supposed to look warm. Maybe I could get the similar greenish tint effect with a specific tube-type light or a flourescent light that gives off this color. Basically, the shot is supposed to be a combination of the shot above from Parasite with this two shots from Cure:
  14. How to replicate sunlight with Artificial lights? How to control it? Which type of lights are mostly used for this? Please suggest.
  15. ARRI Studio Ceramic 250 Hi Guys I am interested to hear peoples opinions on this light it sounds like something that would be very handy to have in my kit. It seems to have a built in ballast and the bulbs can be swopped between a tungsten 3300k bulb to a hmi type bulb with a 5500k temperature. They power usage is 250 watts and has a light output the equivalent of a 1k tungsten. They sound to have a lot versatility and they run cooler temp wise. But am i missing something here. Why are these not that popular, fair enough they are an older light fitting buti have never seen one of these on set or in any hire houses? The CRI is 90 is this the reason. I d love to hear opinions on this light the pros and the cons off anyone who has used them. I am considering buying one but dont have any where to hire it from to test one first.
  16. Hello folks, I am currently trying to source hmi plugs for my strand 2500 watt and 1200 watt magnetic ballast lights. (2500w)I have bought a ballast and head both strand but the plugs don't screw together they are slightly different. I wanted to swop the plug on the ballast and the header cable to get them working together. And my 1200 watt the plug just broke on the header cable. I am finding it hard to source new ones, and struggling with how to take apart the plugs on the header cables them selfves? And ideas, I am a competent electrician but never had to swop these out before and it's baffling me. I intend fully megar testing each core once I replace them.
  17. Hi everyone. I hope you all are safe and sound. I have an interview set up to take place in a stadium football field. All the lights surrounding the stadium have to be on as they all are turned off and on by a single switch unfortunately . Now I am stuck in 2 minds. I haven't had a chance to light meter the location yet but I the plan to underexpose this by 2-3 stops; then bring in my key on the talent which will then be exposed (something big obviously like a M40 going through diff to compete with those lights). I'm also thinking of covering the talent from each side and front with a 20X20 Blackout to model the light more; potentially 2x M18s on megabooms for backlight. The debate I am having is will the Blackout be needed for both sides or just do 2x favouring one side? Also if I should add the M18's as the backlight or will the stadium lights be sufficient? The whole point for me is to make it as less flat as possible. Please see the idea of my floorplan and some references for the lighting. Once again any advice is appreciated or tips from people who have been in the same filming environment. Cheers!
  18. 👉🏻How do you Light in Layers? (Background/Midground/Foreground) 👉🏻 What all to be careful about lighting up in layers 👉🏻 Is there any rule that can help?
  19. Hello Folks, I am considering investing in some arri skypanels or some cream source vertex 8s I wondered had anyone had any experience with the creamsource vertex 8s, on research they do seem to be a good alternative to a sky panel s60 and a built in ballast and a high IP rating makes them even more attractive. Also they seem to be a hard source to begin with which would be useful as it will give me both hard and soft light options. However they are not available to hire here in Ireland and I have no hands on experience with that brand. So I was looking for people who have experience with them and any feedback on them.
  20. Hope everyone is staying safe. Kindly let me know if this has been discussed before or not suitable for this section. I was going through a blog by one DOP and he had to shoot inside a church . There were two possibilities, one to throw lights from outside or to place them inside and match direction, intensity etc. However, due to budget constraints he couldn’t rig the lights inside and placed them outside. Now in the parallel dolly shot (with windows) every light was visible but as the windows were closed it didn’t look completely unnatural. Coincidentally the director liked that shot and didn’t even care about this. Now my question is how can one avoid this situation when the window will be in frame (let’s say the camera is in eye level) and the light would have to be placed outside that window. Along with avoiding blown out and diffused window frames. Thanks in advance.
  21. So I am trying to achieve and a subtle teal and orange look similar to the image below and I want to do it in-camera as much as I can (obviously it will be enhanced in resolve but I just want to make it as easy for the colourist as possible). Here is my thought process I could shoot at 3200k in-camera and gel windows with CTB, then create some ambient blue fill light in the room by bouncing a CTB gelled light at ceiling, then key my talent with a 3200k source (same kelvin as camera) to create natural looking skin tones. (i would then CTO my tungsten practicals to make them even warmer in camera) For my scene though, the actors move around the room a fair bit, how would one go about keeping skin tones looking natural and making sure there is skin separation from the walls in camera? would I just Hollywood a source that was balanced to what the camera was to key-light my talent? Although, I do want the it be as naturalistic as I can any suggestions or thoughts? I know there are a lot of different ways of tackling this, I am more interested to hear different ways of how people would light this and how to keep skin separation when actors move around room a lot in scene? Thanks! (sourced from reddit, the work is not mine, here is the link to that post; https://www.reddit.com/r/cinematography/comments/kgymng/shot_my_first_spec_ad_let_me_know_what_you_think/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3 )
  22. Hi, I have been trying to read up on this but it seems I can't find anything. So forgive me if this has been answered before. How do you actually do the “mirror gag” much like I attached here. I know skyfall was big budget, so if the answer is just masking and blue screen I get it, but I do know there are quite a few that has done this practical. C
  23. Hey everyone! I'm looking to light an exterior night scene in the woods, and really want that unrealistic powerful back moonlight look. All of my actors will be keyed by their own lanterns, but I just want to have that moonlight in addition. I came across this scene from Stranger Things season one, shot by Tim Ives, that really resembles the look I'm going for. My question is, does anyone know how this scene was actually lit? I can't tell if it's a single soft source or several sources, and how the characters are not backlit but the fog behind them is. Also, if anyone knows how they would have achieved this color, that almost bluish green look, what kind of gels over what kind of lights. I would greatly appreciate any input on this! Thanks guys!
  24. Dear All, I have been wondering and testing how light stacks and its correlation to light fall off. The term 'stack' is most likely wrong, what I mean by it is when two beams of light overlap does the luminance value say foot candles in this instance add up? It makes sense as for example a maxi brute or other Fays that have several lower wattage lamps such as 1k's or 650's add up to produce a larger output. So for instance if I had several Par64 cans and rigged them in an array in which the distance between fixtures was minimal the total output would be the addition of all the outputs of the par cans combined? However I question this further (reference diagram bellow) in which then if you bounced several sources into the same area of say a frame of ultrabounce. If the beams overlapped would they add together create a more powerful source with therefore less fall off. Putting terms into words is not my strong suit so I have drawn a crude diagram bellow. The tests I have created had mixed results and while practical is good and something I shall test further for a future rig the theory behind it interests me greatly! Please do note nothing on this diagram is accurate from the refraction etc to anything. Just a crude idea.
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