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LA Timelapse & Music Video


Andrew Walker

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The timelapse was mostly shot using a Canon 20D but the opening shot of LA was shot with an HVX.

 

(480p Version)

http://599productions.com/599/Timelapse%20480p%202.html

 

(720p Version)

http://599productions.com/599/Timelapse%20720p%202.html

 

 

 

The music video was shot about a little over a month ago. I shot, directed and edited it together. I also did the eye effects in Shake. It was fun to shoot but dealing with the band afterwards was a bit much. They didn't like this version and decided to edit their own version of it. They haven't posted it yet but it should be out soon.

 

(480p)

http://599productions.com/599/Dance%20Dead%20480p.html

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The timelapse was mostly shot using a Canon 20D but the opening shot of LA was shot with an HVX.

 

(480p Version)

http://599productions.com/599/Timelapse%20480p%202.html

 

(720p Version)

http://599productions.com/599/Timelapse%20720p%202.html

The music video was shot about a little over a month ago. I shot, directed and edited it together. I also did the eye effects in Shake. It was fun to shoot but dealing with the band afterwards was a bit much. They didn't like this version and decided to edit their own version of it. They haven't posted it yet but it should be out soon.

 

(480p)

http://599productions.com/599/Dance%20Dead%20480p.html

 

 

That's great stuff. What are those flying lights right after the opening shot of the clouds moving?

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I really Like the time lapse, really cool footage!!

 

but the music video was to dark for me, I love the little light bulbs, but I think if you want it to make it muddy, probably was better to use some kinos above the band, or to make the lighting more dramatic, more edgy, creating crazy shadows, but overall it was a good video

 

I love the slow motion stuff

 

 

Best

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but the music video was to dark for me, I love the little light bulbs, but I think if you want it to make it muddy, probably was better to use some kinos above the band, or to make the lighting more dramatic, more edgy, creating crazy shadows

 

I agree it was a little dark, but I would have taken a different approach to preserving that really dark feel -- keep the same key lighting, but add just a touch of edgelight on the band, or light the background just a little for separation. Not much at all, just enough for a difference. The problem with "black" on screen is that it goes flat -- you lose the illusion of depth. So when you have black hair or black wardrobe against a black background, it doesn't have any depth -- it tends to look like a face against a flat wall.

 

But if you are going to embrace the "edges bleeding into the black abyss" look, you can still create a little depth by having the keylight fall off a little more visibly. For example in the shots of the crowd you could have moved the soft keylight a little closer to the subject, so that you can see a dropoff in luminance across the frame.

 

But overall I liked it; well done. I liked the speed changes during the performance.

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Planes landing at LAX.

 

 

Wow, that is so cool. I couldn't figure it out but I guess it's because they're low because they must

be right near the airport?

 

 

I've heard people say before that they've used still cameras to shoot time lapse. Do you set the

camera on a tripod and click with a cable release or does that camera have an intervalometer?

 

Once you have the still frames, do you simply import them into your editing timeline?

 

Why not use the HVX-200 for everything? What advantages are there to using a still camera?

 

Thanks.

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Any filtration on the Panasonic?

 

I added a little contast in FCP but that was it.

 

 

Love the music video. What is your workflow? P2card or hard drive?

 

I used 2 4GB P2 cards and a P2 Store for the shoot. Can't wait to get the 16GB cards because those 4GB ones fill up fast.

 

 

I really Like the time lapse, really cool footage!!

 

but the music video was to dark for me, I love the little light bulbs, but I think if you want it to make it muddy, probably was better to use some kinos above the band, or to make the lighting more dramatic, more edgy, creating crazy shadows, but overall it was a good video

 

I love the slow motion stuff

Best

 

Glad you liked the timelapse and the music video. The lighting was really tough in that place because it was small and everyone was freaking out for some reason. I tried to do the best with what I had.

 

Wow, that is so cool. I couldn't figure it out but I guess it's because they're low because they must

be right near the airport?

 

 

I've heard people say before that they've used still cameras to shoot time lapse. Do you set the

camera on a tripod and click with a cable release or does that camera have an intervalometer?

 

Once you have the still frames, do you simply import them into your editing timeline?

 

Why not use the HVX-200 for everything? What advantages are there to using a still camera?

 

Thanks.

 

I have a remote controller that Canon makes for its 20D and up cameras that fires off the frames. I take all the still frames and import them into Motion and let that program do the assembling. FCP can do the same thing but I like using Motion better. The HVX is really only good to use in the day for timelapse stuff...or at least for me. The 20D allows me to keep the shutter open much longer and collect more light, which is what I need shooting the night time stuff.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Great wotk. It's really beautiful stuff. How did you get you HVX to shoot at 2fps. I have heard of people doing this, but i never worked out how. Can you show me, or send me a link to a site that can show me.

 

Thanks alot.

 

Ken Minehan

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Great wotk. It's really beautiful stuff. How did you get you HVX to shoot at 2fps. I have heard of people doing this, but i never worked out how. Can you show me, or send me a link to a site that can show me.

 

Thanks alot.

 

Ken Minehan

 

 

Here's what Barry Green posted in DVXuser.com on how to do the frame rate hack. I would post the link but this is faster for everyone.

 

 

"Here's the procedure:

 

1) Get a scene file text file on an SD card, usually by going into menu 8, CARD FUNCTIONS, and saving scene files to your SD card.

 

2) Open the scene file text file in the PRIVATE\MEIGROUP\PAVCN\SBG\P2SD directory, called SCENE1.TXT (or scene2.txt, scene3.txt, or scene4.txt) using a text editor like Windows Notepad

 

3) Look for the next-to-last item in the scene file. Here's what a sample scene file text file looks like:

00005000: 8 ; DETAIL LEVEL: 0

00005001: 8 ; V DETAIL LEVEL: 0

00005002: 8 ; DETAIL CORING : 0

00005003: 8 ; CHROMA LEVEL: 0

00005004: 8 ; CHROMA PHASE: 0

00005005: 8 ; COLOR TEMP: 0

00005006: 16 ; MASTER PED: 0

00005007: 8 ; A.IRIS LEVEL: 0

00005008: 1 ; NEWS GAMMA: OFF

00005009: 0 ; GAMMA : HD NORM

0000500A: 0 ; KNEE: AUTO

0000500B: 0 ; MATRIX: NORM

0000500C: 1 ; SKIN TONE DTL : OFF

0000500D: 0 ; V DETAIL FREQ : THIN

0000500E: 0 ; OPERATION TYPE: VIDEO CAM

0000500F: 0 ; FRAME RATE: DEFAULT

00005010: BE026801 ; SYNCRO SCAN :

 

That next-to-last item is:

0000500F: 0 ; FRAME RATE: DEFAULT

 

You can ignore everything after the semicolon; the semicolon indicates that it's a "comment" and will have no bearing on anything else (so, in this example, the part that says "; FRAME RATE: DEFAULT " is useless, it affects nothing, it's just there for human-readable description).

 

So the relevant part is:

0000500F: 0

 

The only thing you would want to change is that last number (in this case, "0"). To get different frame rates, use one of the following numbers:

 

0 = DEFAULT

1 = 2fps

2 = 3fps

3 =4fps

4 = 6fps

5 = 8fps

6 = 10fps

7 = 12fps

8 = 14fps

9 = 16fps

10 = 18fps

11 = 20fps

12 = 22fps

13 = 23fps

14 = 24fps

16 = 26fps

17 = 27fps

18 = 28fps

19 = 30fps

20 = 32fps

21 = 34fps

22 = 36fps

23 = 38fps

24 = 40fps

25 = 42fps

26 = 44fps

27 = 46fps

28 = 48fps

29 = 50fps

30 = 52fps

32 = 54fps

33 = 56fps

34 = 58fps

35 = 60fps

36+ = repeat of sequence from 50fps to 60fps

 

So, for example, if you wanted to get a frame rate of 2 FPS, your modified line would look like this:

0000500F: 1 ; FRAME RATE: DEFAULT

 

And if you wanted 44 fps, it would look like this:

0000500F: 26 ; FRAME RATE: DEFAULT

 

(don't try higher than 35; I tried 36 and it set it to 50fps, 37 set it to 52, so I think it just repeats 50-60 for all fields set higher than 36)

 

4) Save your modified text file back onto your SD card

 

5) Put the SD card back in the camera, go to CARD FUNCTIONS, and read the scene files into the camera.

 

Now, when you go to the appropriate scene file, you'll see the new frame rate there. But be aware, the only way to assign these "nonstandard" frame rates is through the SD card. If you use the menu to try to change the frame rate, you'll lose it -- it'll immediately jump to 60, and then only allow the normal rates to be selected. You'd have to re-load the scene file from the SD card in order to re-establish your "nonstandard" frame rate."

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I've heard people say before that they've used still cameras to shoot time lapse. Do you set the camera on a tripod and click with a cable release or does that camera have an intervalometer?

 

Hi Tim,

 

when shooting digital you can just hook up the DSLR (Canon can do this, Nikon as well and I guess all others can do too) to your laptop and have the software do the rest. We used that a bit on a doco I shot.

 

When you're shooting film you need a camera with a databack like the F5/MF-28 combo which features an intervalometer as well as a load of other functions.

 

Regards, Dave

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