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Eastman Double-X 7222 16mm home processing


Marco Leoncino
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Dear all,

I was making a search in the forums and in the web, in order to find updated information, but I didn´t find what I was searching. Therefore I have opened this new topic.

I have learned how to develop the kodak Tri-X 7266 film and, in particular, the B&W inversion process (with a Lomo tank). Paradoxically, I am thinking to use a negative B&W film, for my future projects, because I need more latitude. I was thinking to process the Kodak 7222 at home, in the Lomo tank.

The question is the following:

is it possible to develop theEastman Double-X 7222 in Kodak D-76, or it is much better to use the D-96?

D-96 is usually used stock, but I guess that D-76 should be used 1+1. Does anyone has some starting points?

Can you please help me?

Thank you very much!

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27 minutes ago, Marco Leoncino said:

Dear all,

I was making a search in the forums and in the web, in order to find updated information, but I didn´t find what I was searching. Therefore I have opened this new topic.

I have learned how to develop the kodak Tri-X 7266 film and, in particular, the B&W inversion process (with a Lomo tank). Paradoxically, I am thinking to use a negative B&W film, for my future projects, because I need more latitude. I was thinking to process the Kodak 7222 at home, in the Lomo tank.

The question is the following:

is it possible to develop theEastman Double-X 7222 in Kodak D-76, or it is much better to use the D-96?

D-96 is usually used stock, but I guess that D-76 should be used 1+1. Does anyone has some starting points?

Can you please help me?

Thank you very much!

According to Massive Dev Chart,

DoubleX in D76 1+1 (ISO 250) should be 10min at 20C

DoubleX in D76 1+2 (ISO 250) should be 12min at 22C

DoubleX in D76 1+1 (ISO 250) should be 10min at 20C

DoubleX in D76 1+3 (ISO 250) should be 20min at 22C

You should get this app, it's the best I know out there for recipes. I use it on iOS but i'm sure it's on android as well. 

They also have a website and this is what they have for 5222 in D76

https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=%Kodak+Double-X%&Developer=%D-76%&mdc=Search&TempUnits=C&TimeUnits=D

 

 

 

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Aside from saving money, a big part of the appeal of home processing would be the option of NOT having to use a typical solvent-type developer (high-sulfite D96, D76 and others) and open it up to experiment with staining developers (pyrogallol or catechol), acutance developers (Rodinal & co.), etc.

 

Does the tank develop evenly or is there flicker in the moving image?

 

-Jarin

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Nik and Trick (UK) sell the D96 developer and F6 fixer for that film...made by Bellini

https://ntphotoworks.com/product/bellini-d96-fixer-f5-kodak-double-x-package-deals/

Also....Eastman Double X has little latitude in my experience.....I used it on this personal project and my exposure had to be within like 1/2 stop to be 'on'....this is MY experience with the film.....not saying its universally correct for everyone as I guess depends how you light it etc.

I particularly found that for exterior shots you have to be spot on with the metering esp. in bright conditions with the sun full on. I rated it at 250 iso like Kodak says and for me this is accurate. I lit the main close-ups with a Multiblitz V6 LED light on a rectangular soft box....the bed and shower scenes with the light coming in from an Arri Plus 1000w tungsten and the beach part with bright sun

In my experience, using Double X is like using E6 film when it comes to metering....but what a beautiful beautiful stock it is....

I did this with it....Cinelab London processed and scanned for me.

 

Edited by Stephen Perera
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On 11/17/2019 at 7:11 PM, Satsuki Murashige said:

Beautiful work, Stephen. Skin tones are so soft and gentle. What lenses did you use? 

You are so kind Satsuki.....shot with Cooke Varokinetal 9-50mm on Aaton XTR XC (the one with no electronics, no video tap, nothing just a battery to run it) in standard 16mm format...as I said earlier, as a Hasselblad shooter (I use a 201F a 2000FCM and a 500CM with 50mm C and CF versions, 80mm, 110mm, 150mm 250mm lenses) I prefer standard 16mm than Super16mm for composing

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On 11/17/2019 at 7:08 PM, Satsuki Murashige said:

Yes please, Tri-X and Rodinal 50:1... 

I've always been mostly a Kodak XTOL person myself for BW film......sometimes TMax developer......sometimes Perceptol.......magic combo for me is TMax 400 in Xtol 1:1

See some photos I took of our Gibraltar apes on TMax 400 using Xtol at 1:1 on Hasselblad 200FCM handheld, metered for shadow area always shot against backlight of full on sun for the white skies to give it all the look of a 'set' of images

https://www.ulookretro.com/images#/barbary-macaques/

 

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9 hours ago, Stephen Perera said:

shot with Cooke Varokinetal 9-50mm on Aaton XTR XC

I prefer standard 16mm than Super16mm for composing

A classic combination! 

I prefer the 1.33:1 ratio too. It frames the human face so well, and has so many interesting possibilities for vertical subjects.

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9 hours ago, Stephen Perera said:

I've always been mostly a Kodak XTOL person myself for BW film......sometimes TMax developer......sometimes Perceptol.......magic combo for me is TMax 400 in Xtol 1:1

See some photos I took of our Gibraltar apes on TMax 400 using Xtol at 1:1 on Hasselblad 200FCM handheld, metered for shadow area always shot against backlight of full on sun for the white skies to give it all the look of a 'set' of images

https://www.ulookretro.com/images#/barbary-macaques/

 

Love the apes!

To be honest, I never got into experimenting with B&W developers as an amateur photographer. I would have liked to, but never had the patience to go thru them all.

I was recommended D76 as a student, got interested in Rodinal, and was told it would make the images too grainy. But I liked the sharp grain and contrast, so I stuck with it. Haven’t shot B&W in years now. I have a freezer full of 135 and 120 Fuji ACROS, TX400, and Ilford 3200 that I need to shoot!

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3 hours ago, Satsuki Murashige said:

Love the apes!

To be honest, I never got into experimenting with B&W developers as an amateur photographer. I would have liked to, but never had the patience to go thru them all.

I was recommended D76 as a student, got interested in Rodinal, and was told it would make the images too grainy. But I liked the sharp grain and contrast, so I stuck with it. Haven’t shot B&W in years now. I have a freezer full of 135 and 120 Fuji ACROS, TX400, and Ilford 3200 that I need to shoot!

I have all those films in my freezer too.....Fuji Acros...what a film.....fantastic modern film and great to scan.....and now Fuji are bringing out a new version.....I shoot Acros and develop in Xtol 1:1....what a great film....luckily I have my own Hasselblad Flextight 646 scanner which I bought off a friend here in Gibraltar for £1200 a few years ago.....easy to connect to a modern computer.....albeit with Mac OS Catalina I have to keep my MacBook Pro to be able to use the Flexcolor app....prior to that in the 90s I bought a ScanMate 5000 drum scanner second hand from a repro house in Madrid and I used to scan all the film I used for my design work from a photographer that I used to commission and my own work.....we used to shoot and scan mostly Fuji Provia II back in the day....sometimes Astia...a lot of the times as well Fuji Reala believe it or not...another great film.....then we went on to colour negative Kodak.....in the last decades its all about Portra....I still have 2012 expired 160NC and 400NC that shoots perfectly with no loss of sensitivity....

Fuji Provia II back in the day

Edited by Stephen Perera
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